[hotrod66_57]

I'm in the process of rebuilding a 700r4 for my 66 nova with a small block. I've been working with my high school shop teacher and got the 700r4 completely disassembled (it's an 1988) and upon inspection of the case found a crack in the bell housing area. we have another trany that i thought was a 700r4 from 1984 and I was going to try to use that case (only the case) since it is crack free. I started disassembling this one today and when I removed the oil pan I found a series of 4 electronic pressure switches attached to the valve body as well as the lock-up converter components. My thinking at this point is that newer is better but obviously my 66 doesn't have the computer required to shift this electronic trany. my question is if using this case will work if i use all components from the 700r4 or if there is some major difference and if the 4l60e is in fact stronger and better is there any practical way to either convert the trany to one that doesn't need a computer, or use the valve body from the 700r4 or what can be done? My option of last resort, and I'm not completely sure this would solve my problem, would be to make the valve body manual so that I would have sole control over the up-shifts and downshifts, this worked fine with a powerglide but i think it might get a little old with a 4 speed. hope this wasn't too wordy. Any help regarding this matter would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
hotrod66_57

[ronb]

Originally Posted by hotrod66_57

I'm in the process of rebuilding a 700r4 for my 66 nova with a small block. I've been working with my high school shop teacher and got the 700r4 completely disassembled (it's an 1988) and upon inspection of the case found a crack in the bell housing area. we have another trany that i thought was a 700r4 from 1984 and I was going to try to use that case (only the case) since it is crack free. I started disassembling this one today and when I removed the oil pan I found a series of 4 electronic pressure switches attached to the valve body as well as the lock-up converter components. My thinking at this point is that newer is better but obviously my 66 doesn't have the computer required to shift this electronic trany. my question is if using this case will work if i use all components from the 700r4 or if there is some major difference and if the 4l60e is in fact stronger and better is there any practical way to either convert the trany to one that doesn't need a computer, or use the valve body from the 700r4 or what can be done? My option of last resort, and I'm not completely sure this would solve my problem, would be to make the valve body manual so that I would have sole control over the up-shifts and downshifts, this worked fine with a powerglide but i think it might get a little old with a 4 speed. hope this wasn't too wordy. Any help regarding this matter would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
hotrod66_57

Not sure but i think you might have a typo here or i`am just confused?? the 4l60e is and electronically shifted tranny but was not available until 93! not available in 84 or 88. anyhow can you get the crack welded??

[hotrod66_57]

yes your right what i meant was that the one i took apart was an 88 and the one that turned out to be a 4l60e is a 94, i just misinterpreted the casting number at first and thought it was an 84 since the casting number only lists the last digit of the year. as for the welding, i had thought about that and it would sure make things easier. I guess i'll talk to the shop teacher tomorrow and see what he thinks, but if pieces of the 4l60e are better than ones from the 700r4 then i should use as many of those as i can. sorry again for that misprint and thank you for bringing that to my attention.
hotrod66_57

[Crosley]

the "E" tranny has a completely different electrical connector than the 700r4 tranny.

Larger connector and different side of the tranny case for the 4L60E

Originally Posted by hotrod66_57

yes your right what i meant was that the one i took apart was an 88 and the one that turned out to be a 4l60e is a 94, i just misinterpreted the casting number at first and thought it was an 84 since the casting number only lists the last digit of the year. as for the welding, i had thought about that and it would sure make things easier. I guess i'll talk to the shop teacher tomorrow and see what he thinks, but if pieces of the 4l60e are better than ones from the 700r4 then i should use as many of those as i can. sorry again for that misprint and thank you for bringing that to my attention.
hotrod66_57

[hotrod66_57]

Crosley, thanks for the Identification tip. does anyone think that welding a crack in the bell housing wouldn't be good enough because if that saves me from having to disassemble a second one, great. The crack is fairly long and runs horizontal to the trany. a previous owner tried to drill the ends but the crack continued. My thinking is that even if the drilling didn't work welding is a much better solution, but i don't know how it works with tranys.
thanks again,
hotrod66_57

[ronb]

Originally Posted by hotrod66_57

Crosley, thanks for the Identification tip. does anyone think that welding a crack in the bell housing wouldn't be good enough because if that saves me from having to disassemble a second one, great. The crack is fairly long and runs horizontal to the trany. a previous owner tried to drill the ends but the crack continued. My thinking is that even if the drilling didn't work welding is a much better solution, but i don't know how it works with tranys.
thanks again,
hotrod66_57

as long as the crack does not enter through any fluid passages and you find a welder that actually knows what he is doing and has the equipment and experience with aluminum you should be o:k? another idea might be to check around at your local salvage yards! sometimes they get cores in and you might be able to pick up a case for around $30 bucks???