[g&s restorod]

I got a pile of 700r4s laying around but every time i try to build one and stick it behind a 4-500 horse big block it ends up grenading . 350s and 400s are becoming scarce and I am starting to geeze so the muncie option is quickly going away. I have tried some other stuff but it all is really expensive. anyone got some neat tricks to make a 700r4 stout enough for 500hp and tubbed rear? I have had 3 different EXPERT xmission guys assure me that they could do it and all i have to show are 3 piles of aluminum . I would like to know kit PN# and specific details as I will do this myself. I have done many pglides and 350-400 rebuilds so I am not a total idiot. I just do not do it enough to be really up to date. thanks in advance

[SSedan64]

What parts of the 700's are grenading? Sun Shells? 3-4 clutches?

[g&s restorod]

Pretty much everything from the first cluster back. It is hard to tell I have even had part of a retainer come up through the floor board. The bottom end looks almost normal. They seem okay on the street and even on take off and burnouts.... its at about 75mph and 6200 rpm that it gets dicey. The last one locked up hard and i did about 4 donuts at 60 and ended up facing the wrong way in the other lane. (The State trooper who observed the rubber marks wasn't buying the stuck throttle excuse either ). I hear stories that people build them to take 600hp but no one can tell me who or how its done. I put a 4L60 with a shift box in that car but the $3500.00 price put a big hurting on my car stash. I stick them in cars with 383 strokers and they perform fine. It is almost like the 450-500 ft lbs of torque is punching through and spinning the guts out.. The clutches definitely are tweaked. The inners are rung out smooth like they were machined (If they aren't in a million shreds). I Picked up 4 350 short shafts and a glide for a 100 bucks today at the flea market so I have a temporary stay of execution.

[LEE EYES]

a 4l60e has the same internal components as the 700. most difference is valve body. there are a few things you can do to them to make the stronger. how deep are your pockets?

[cobalt327]

Originally Posted by g&s restorod

I hear stories that people build them to take 600hp but no one can tell me who or how its done.

This isn't a recommendation of these guys, I refer to them as a source of info. They may be fine, I just have no empirical knowledge of their products.

It’s explained HERE, as well as elsewhere on the site.

[g&s restorod]

I called the people you linked me to and they were very helpful. Basically they told me that the 700r4 are fine unless you use them with high horsepower hi torque applications with a heavy car. The combination of the 450+ft lbs of torque, tubbed rear on a 4000lb+ car is pretty much the death knell for a 750r4. Looking back most of the cars i have used them in have been 30-40 model coupes or rat rods that are relatively lightweight and are not tubbed. For now it will be cheaper to keep getting the pglides and 350s even if they cost more for the core than I would like to pay. Guess I will keep buying lottery tickets... Then maybe I can afford Tremec
thanks for the help....BIG SCOTT

[cobalt327]

Originally Posted by g&s restorod

For now it will be cheaper to keep getting the pglides and 350s even if they cost more for the core than I would like to pay. Guess I will keep buying lottery tickets... Then maybe I can afford Tremec
thanks for the help....BIG SCOTT

LOL- I feel ya, man!

I keep eyeing my ca. 1968 Muncie M-20, trying to figure what I'll be able to get away with AFA torque. I/m figgerin on camming h ell out of my upcomming 406, it can't break if I don't have any torque down low, can it? lol

[g&s restorod]

Just Grenaded my 66 muncie in the chevelle....The 550hp and 520ft lbs torque killed it at 145mph as I was getting close to the rev limiter right in the power band....Driveline loop PRICELESS....I cant Imagine Pole Vaulting over 100 mph..