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Old 04-24-2007, 12:18 AM
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700r4 conversion questions

Hi, I have a 63 chevy 2 nova 400 and I want to put a 700 r4 or maybe a 200 r4 in to get the overdrive. I know I need the correct tail housing. I have seen these for sale on ebay. I do not know what year trans or out of which vehicle I should get a 700r4 trans. One person told me the early 82-84, or is it 82-86, trans are non-computer controled and I should get one of these. How do I identify a non-computer controled 700r4? Or can I use any 700r4? Are the 4x4 trans the same if you change the tail housing? I have read through Bowtie Overdrives website and know some of the issues involved in the conversion process but still do not know which year trans to use. Also wondering if I should get a trans from junkyard or buy a rebuilt from a local shop? How much should I pay for a used 700r4? Do I dare to try to rebuild a 700r4 by myself? I have never worked on an auto trans. I have an edelbrock performer 1404 carb and a 10 rear with an eaton posi and 3:55 gears. Thanks for your help.

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Old 04-24-2007, 12:34 AM
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I wouldn't use a wrecking yard trans and I don't recommend a 700-R4 rebuild for the first time trans DIY'er.

Hughes Performance is in your area. You might check with them.
I recommend using a local builder in case you have any warranty issues. Auto trans are complex pieces of machinery and even the best builders occasionally have problems, better to have the builder close by to remedy anything that may arise. Oftentimes it is a simple deal and may not require removal of the trans and shipping.
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Old 04-24-2007, 02:17 AM
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The general thought is to get an 87-91 700R4 as they have the factory upgrades you need to start with. I've been working on cars all my life and would'nt even think of trying to rebuild any automatic, just not my thing. I would definitely give Bowtie O/D guys a call. As far as I know they have a good reputation.
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Old 04-24-2007, 06:42 AM
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I had one done by a friend who ran a trans shop. (700r4) I think he said 86 & up? Due to better parts & upgrades?

Don't quote me but I thought they are all computer controlled, but they can be set up to run without. On this one, he showed me the soleniod that does the lock-up on the converter; he put a check ball in that port to eliminate the solenoid. He also matched the governor to the 250 six motor to control the shift/downshift? That whole setup came out really nice and was a great upgrade for the 66 pickup it was in.

You need the correct rear end gears too; like around 3.7 to 4.11 or so. A 3.5 might be too much overdrive.

He also said that if a 700r4 was run defective with a convertor that was NOT locking up, that would ruin/overheat the trans. So before buying a core trans, make sure the fluid looks clean. A "core" trans should be $75-$100 for rebuilding, and any used trans should be gone through in my opinion.

Also he said the cable adjustment to the carb is super critical, and you must get it correct for the trans to operate correctly and prevent damage. Wish I could remember how he told me to set it.

Do a web search for 700r4 modifications....someone must have a site on how to disable the computer controls.
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Old 04-24-2007, 12:07 PM
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Amazing how many different answers we can give to the same question. I've put 700R4s in 3 of my vehicles, and about to do the 4th. A friend of mine has done a few more, and they have all been built by the same shop, but have been built for different purposes. This is what we've learned.........
Tell the shop what is going to go into, what you will be doing with it and have them build it the best way, no skimping. I've had one put in my 1 ton pickup with a big block, and I told them I tow with it all the time, 5500 lbs. I've used it every week for 5 years with no problems, even though people said it would never last. Make sure the shop you use knows what they are doing. Ask other car guys in your area. Have that shop set your TV cable, that's critical. Hope this will get you started..........ask away if you have other questions. I'm not saying the others are wrong, by any means.....they all are right with what they are saying. Good luck!
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Old 04-24-2007, 12:36 PM
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good choice in tranmissions.
up to 92 4l60 disgnated trans are what you really want to start with. the rest let someone who knows the trans do the work. while not really hard you can mix somethings up.
and spend the money in the servo area and spacer plate.
and like someone siad set the tv cable and learn how to check it ever so often.. they will move...
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Old 04-24-2007, 05:56 PM
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1987 gm 700 r 4 transmission...

hi. my 700 r 4 is out of a 1987 firebird. it was rebuilt 2 years ago, by red line transmissions in south florida to hold 500 HP.but only about 160 miles on it.the engine in the bird is blown,so im putting the 700r4 into my 48 ford (383 chevy)my question is; the firebird originally had FI,now carb, the lock up was removed. looking at the trans from the tail shaft,there is a plug with receptacle for something with 4 pins,on left side. on right side there is a receptacle for 2 pins. my question is: what are these 2 receptacles used for? and do i need them? thanks guys. im boatbob2
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Old 07-03-2007, 02:37 PM
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The four pin plug is for control of the torque converter lockup.

There are a lot of ways to control the lockup.

The transmission has a solenoid that controls the oil pressure for this.

Pin A goes to a 10 amp fuse and then to the switched side of the Battery. (+12V).

Pin D then can go through a toggle switch to ground. When it is grounded, the torque converter locks.

Lock it when it shifts to 3rd. Unlock when slowing for a stop sign or such.

I have read that it is not good for the transmission to run unlocked and OD.

You can leave it locked while shifting between 3rd and OD.

Search for more ways in this site.
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