[SSedan64]

I'm not positive what all would need to be swapped.
From reading about the 700 shaft, it stated it could be used in the 60E/65E with the use of a different oil seal on the front end.
Looking at the 65E shaft it looks like the TC/TorqueConverter would need to have a 65E type TCC/TorqueConverterClutch installed inside an older 700/60E type TC.
The 65E was used with the LS1 engine which uses different spacing & TCC etc... By the time you build a TC it may cost as much or more than the 300M shaft.

Maybe a 700R4 builder on here will know if anything else is needed.

[ASE Doc]

I just spoke with Nathan from PATC. They will have a 700R4 input shaft induction hardened for me for the same $89 cost as the 4L65E shaft. He was very helpful and said that he will set up a pricing structure for me that will allow me to complete my parts list within my $1,100 budget.

It's funny too, when he saw the Smart Tech drum, he thought "why the heck didn't I think of that? It's so simple." The same thing I thought.

I really can't say enough how much I appreciate your help and all the help I've received with this project. As I said before, when I had this trans built in 1999, there was no resource like the Hot Rod Forum. Sites like these, that allow us to share information and experience with each other are an awesome benefit of the web.

Now, I just need to work two more weekends and I'll have the money to order my parts and proceed with the buildup.

[ASE Doc]

I haven't posted anything new on this trans project for quite a while. I've been working to save up the funds for parts. I just ordered the parts last week. The list totalled $1,600. PATC gave me a pretty decent discount which helped get it done. I feel like I've put together a pretty good gear train. I'm going to use the Smart Tech housing, a new pump, the superior servos and and extra wide band with new reverse input drum. I'll post the entire list once the trans is done and I've verified it all works the way I want it to.

I'm still working to put together a good package for my 1-2 upshift. It was harsh at light throttle before. I'm getting a new accumulator valve train from Sonnax that should allow me tune that shift down some. Right now I'm looking for the 700R4 pages that I found here before. I can't remember who wrote them. The article suggested blocking the line bias valve. Has anyone done this? What was the result? It's been suggested that this will produce harder shifts at light throttle. That it would be better to use a stiffer spring than to block the valve. Does anyone have any feedback to offer on this?

[ASE Doc]

BTW, I never did post up what I found on tearing down the trans. It had the Alto 9 thin frictions with 8 thin steels and they were smoked. The were so coned that the pack became a big wave washer. There was no 3-4 rev kit and one of the springs was broken. There was also a check ball for the 2nd clutch that had beaten up the case and may have stuck, which could have also caused the 3-4 burn up. I really think though that the major culprit was no rev kit and the high rev shifts. The Transgo spring kit along with the 4L65E release springs should help this. Plus, the Smart Tech housing will allow me to run thicker frictions and steels and higher apply pressure.

[ASE Doc]

Haven't posted on this project for quite a while. It took me some time to put together all of the pieces. I am finally in the process of assembly. I have had the gear train in and out a few times fine tuning clearances and setting end play. I had a strange squeaking noise from the rear planet carrier rubbing on the back of the center support. From studying the breakdown, I figured out that there is nothing preventing the center support resting against the rear carrier during assembly, when the unit is vertical. Once the unit is installed, the first time the L/R clutch engages, the center support will be set in place against the snap ring and the anti-clunk spring will keep it from moving back. This is rookie stuff that a real trans tech would have known. I did work on my L/R clutch stack to assure proper clearance.

Now I've got the unit assembled up to the valve body, which I'll finish after work. Yesterday I had to set the trrans aside to pull heads off of a 1999 Ford 4.6(oh so special). Today I'm diagnosing a severe bog on a 1990 Mazda Miata(will the fun never end?) I expect to have this bad boy 700R4 installed tomorrow. Once I have it running and verify all the shifts are as they should be, I'll post a parts and mod list.

Before I even go any further, I want to give special thanks to Dana at Pro Built Automatics for his tireless tech support on this project. After months of study and thinking I was ready for this build, I ended up with alot of questions and he has been there with solid answers. Thank You Dana!

[ASE Doc]

The transmission is finished and back in my Beasty. From the first two road tests I am pleased so far. The 1-2 bang shift that I had hoped to resolve is gone. The 1-2 shift is firm and solid at light throttle but not harsh, and becomes progressively firmer and faster with throttle pressure. The 2-3 shift is the same way. The slushy feeling that I used to get from the 2-3 shift at mid throttle is gone and the shift feels very confident. I was concerned about having a clunky 3-2 downshift with the Superior servo but I can barely hear the click of the servo and the shift feels very good. I didn't catch on to what Dana was saying about the greater apply area of the Sonnax 4th servo over the Superior until I was already putting things together and I chose not to make the change at that time. I don't use 4th gear that much and I never drive around in D4. The 3-4 shift is the one place where I don't feel a definite improvement. I may go ahead and swap to the Sonnax 4th servo in the future.

I have not had enough road time in the car to really be sure of what actual stall speed is with the new converter. It should be about 500rpm higher. It feels very good so far but I will need to get it to the track, or at least a more remote area to really test it.

One issue that I have had on the two drives I've made is a resistance to shift from 1st gear, only on the very first shift. I have had to run the engine up to 4,500 or 5,000, perhaps a few times before it will shift to 2nd. Once the first 1-2 shift is made, the shifting is great from then on. The trans has only been on two runs and has never been to operating temp yet, so maybe this is just an issue that will resolve itself on run in. Otherwise, it may be a sticky governor and I'll have to fix it.

[ASE Doc]

I believe I promised to post a parts list when this project was completed and tested to my satisfaction. Here is that list beginning at the front of the unit.
2,800 stall converter with balloon plate
Hardened input shaft(as was used behind the LS1)
Rebuilt 10 vane pump with high rev slide spring
Sonnax line rise kit with .500 TV boost valve and stiffer spring
.300 reverse boost valve
New reverse input drum
Extra wide carbonite 2-4 band
Superior 2nd servo
Superior 4th servo
Sonnax Smart Tech input housing
Beast sun shell
All new clutches and steels including 9/.062 frictions and 8/.077 steels in the 3-4 clutch(one of the .077 steels was replaced with a .106 steel to set clearance at .050)
All new thrust washers and bearings
TCC solenoid
Dual springs in the line bias valve(the red spring from the Transgo JR shift kit and a spring from the hardware store that fit inside it)
Transgo CS7 high rev springs for the forward and 3-4 clutches

Other mods were already made to unit in the previous build and were reused including corvette governor and Transgo 3-4 shift valve.