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700R4 low pressures?

27K views 136 replies 9 participants last post by  '49 Ford Coupe 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi folks, I am getting ready to go into my 700R4 to do some more mods and correct some errors I made in last winter's build. I did before work pressure tests this morning and got some troubling results. Minimum TV, in P, N, D, 3 @ 1,000rpm, pressure is 90psi which is fine. But then in reverse, pressure @ 1,000 is only 110. In manual 1st and 2nd, pressure @ 1,000 is still just 90 psi. Full TV, pressure in P is 105. N is 110. D is 95. Man 3rd is 100. Man 1st and 2nd is 100. When I raise rpm to 2,000, pressures @ full TV are P & N- 220, R-210, D 190, 3-200, 1&2-210. Gauge is steady(no wiggly needle). In R, D and 3, when I rev the motor with the TV locked full open, pressure jumps to 240 before falling back off to the readings listed above. I wonder if that might be the pressure relief valve opening. I would like that to hold til 300psi if possible.

The unit has a .296 rev boost valve and the .500 TV boost valve with a high rate regulator valve spring. I have dual springs on the line bias valve and a new 10 vane pump. I expected much better readings. My ignorance is that I put the unit together and drove it most of the summer without pressure testing. Won't make that mistake again. To make things worse, the TCC never worked since the build and I know I got it hot. I know that there are probably several things that could cause this kind of behavior. Does anyone have any thoughts? What jumps to the front of your mind? Sealing ring(s)? Damaged pump? Gasket blown? I plan to go into the unit first thing in the morning and have the weekend to get it back together. I have a full gasket set, new sealing rings, and some other goodies to put in it. If I need other parts, I will need to run to Portland tomorrow to get them. Up side is that it is coming winter and I don't drive the car in anything but sunshine. Worst case is I find something wasted that I can't get tomorrow, I put it back together best I can, limp it home and go back in later better prepared. Moral of this story is pressure test before you drive it. Damn!

I am very thankful for any help. Go ahead and chew my butt. I've earned it.
 
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#27 ·
I've thought about a drain plug but you know it's not that hard to drop the pan. Plus that way you're right there where you can change the filter and you can see how much material you're getting in the pan. Here at the shop, we have the nice transmission drain funnels. Not that I don't still splash a little here and there but on the 700R4s the pan is a nice shape that's not too hard to control.

I'm going to be dropping a 4L60E off at the local transmission shop at the end of work today. Like I said, I only do my own. Plus the electronic units have a whole other set of issues that I don't want to deal with. Alan at Action Transmission in Lafayette has some junk 700R4 pumps in his scrap. He's going to pull the TCC valvetrain and pressure relief valves out out of one for me. I'm going to give him my vette 2nd servo, Superior 4th servo, and the 2,600 stall converter I bought for $400 last year. The converter was not right for my car to begin with and was a half measure. Now it's full of junk from the meltdown and will have to be cut open, checked and cleaned before it can be used again. Or, it can just be turned in as a core. If I keep it here, it will collect dust until I get tired of tripping over it and toss it in the scrap bin. I hate clutter and I'd rather toss it and chalk it up as a lesson than look at it everyday.

If I think too much about all of the parts I've bought, installed and tossed later to replace with something better, I just get sad. Not to mention the many many hours I've spent. So I just go drive my Beasty and remember why I do all of this.

Hopefully I'll have the trans together tonight and started going in. I do need to sleep though too so I may not get it installed until morning. I really hope to have it finished and safely home in the garage by tomorrow night. My awesome sexy wife has now had a real taste of what it is to be a car widow. She wasn't with me back when I built this car in 99. Since Friday morning, she has seen me only getting up early in the am to head off and coming home late at night to SSS and sleep. She did get to buy a new car this weekend

If I had a better shop set up at home, I might do more there. Maybe when I retire. I'm spoiled having been a pro for so many years. Having such great tools and working in a dry warm shop with good lighting, lifts and awesome air pressure(even though air tools never touch my Beasty). I just can't hardly stand working in my cold dark and ill equipped garage at home. I have minimal tools there and I always run into things I need from the shop at work. The average small job means several trips back and forth between the shop and home. My little beater run about ends up with the back end full of tools that take me 15 minutes to clean and put away at the finish.
 
#29 ·
The results are in. I got the unit installed and running last night. Pressures look much better, though still not what I was hoping for. Cold pressures are great, then as the unit warms up, the pressures come down. An indication that my pump clearances are too large. I didn't have time to set clearances as I needed to get the car off the lift. I will buy another pump and take the time to set it up, then swap it out when it's ready. I also want to see higher base line pressure to insure good 3-4 apply pressure at low throttle cruise. I just don't feel like 90-100 psi is enough. I am going to look into a stiffer regulator valve spring to bring that up some.

Pressure readings cold are as follows:
P,N,D at 1000rpm, min TV- 100psi, R- 180psi, 1 & 2- 190psi

At 2,000rpm part throttle, P,N,D- 120psi, R- 220psi, 1 & 2- 220psi

Max line pressure in all gears 260-270psi.

Warm readings come down to 90psi at min TV in P,N,D at 1000rpm, R- 150psi, 1 & 2- 160psi

Pressures come right up by 2,000rpm and max out at 250-260 warm. Definitely enough to shift and hold clutches with confidence.

One more thing is the TCC. On my test drive this morning I didn't get lock up in 3rd or 4th with the switch in either position. I may have a bad solenoid or some issue in the wiring. I may also just have the control parameters in calmap set too narrow. I will hook up the laptop and check that out on the way home tonight. I can test for control power and ground to the solenoid from under the dash and hood while driving. I will do this if I don't have any success with changing parameters.

I expect the new cooler design will dramatically reduce fluid temp and between that and getting this TCC to work, I shouldn't have anymore high temp failure issues like what happened to me last summer. I also drilled 5 small holes around the input housing just below the 3-4 backing plate to provide for fluid movement through the clutches for better cooling. The bolt on backing plate doesn't allow for any fluid bleed at all in that area.


I want to see min pressure at 120 and max at 270 or 280 warm. I hope that by properly setting up pump clearance as suggested I will improve warm pressures. Some pressure drop is to be expected with an aluminum case and steel rotor as the aluminum expands more than the steel. I just think it could be better if the clearances were just right. I'm still not real comfortable flat sanding the case as I don't know how to keep it true that way. I will speak with a machinist about it and see if they have a way to cut it down with greater precision while keeping surface finish smooth for proper sealing. It's worth it to me to pay them to get it perfect.

I'm also going to look into the B&M shift kits. They have one kit where it appears that only a PR spring is used to bump pressure up. It is obviously a stiff spring. This spring will hopefully get my base line pressure up where I want it. I am just crazy enough to even go spring shopping at the machine supply. If I can just find one that has the same compression range and is just a bit stiffer, I'm not above trying it out to see what it does to pressure. I am even thinking about the .570 boost and .400rev/int boost valves as an option.

I see now why some guys put trans pressure gauges in their vehicles. It could get to be an obsession looking for the perfect pressures.:)

All in all, the trans is great, the shifts are solid and quick and the Sonnax 4th servo is a winner. The 4th shift is now solid so that you feel it in the small of your back. The 3,500 stall Edge converter really puts the torque to the wheels, as evidenced by the 100ft black marks on the street in front of the shop. Thanks again to everyone for all of the help on this project. It is excellent, even if not yet perfect. And isn't the pursuit of perfection why we build hotrods anyway?
 
#30 ·
You've got some of the right ideas. Its ok to check tranny pressures and think your good. The real test is to see what your pressures are really like after you've had that vehicle out running for five to ten miles or farther. If it drops a lot, you can imagine what its like when it gets real hot. I know my friends think i'm crazy about my tranny and can't figure why I've done the things they wouldn't attempt.
 
#31 ·
Thanks again dwwl, The pressures I posted were before, during and after a 15 mile road test. I did verify pressures before the drive last night, then again this morning. I got on line today and spoke with people at B&M and TCI. B&M wont sell their high rate PR spring without the whole $80+ kit. TCI does sell their purple spring separate and says that it will raise base pressure 15-20psi over the Transgo green spring. That is a step in the right direction at least. I'm also going to go with the .570 boost and .400 low/rev boost valves from TCI. If the trans shifts a little hard, I don't care. It is a Beasty hotrod after all not a luxury sedan.:)
 
#32 ·
I either need a new old laptop or to fix this one. I tried to watch virtual dash on my ACCEL DFI on the way home last night for clues to why my TCC isn't working but the backlight on my old Gateway laptop has bit the dust and I can hardly see the screen. It was a $50 CL buy three years ago so I guess I got my $ worth. The thing that sucks about technology is that as it progresses, the old gets left behind. The software for my early DFI has to run on a laptop running Windows 98 or 95. That means old laptop. These suckers are getting hard to find and they are generally beat when I find them. Maybe I can fix this one. Could just be a capacitor. I hate to buy a new DFI system just because this one isn't supported well anymore. The gen 6 is old school and it works fine.

In any case, my TCC is not working. I have the parameters set as follows. Minimum throttle-15%, minimum rpm- 1,500, TBD(torque before disengage, think vacuum switch)- .70 bar. I know that my engine idles at .72 because of the big cam but it's got to be getting below .70 at cruise. Guess I could try setting TBD at .75 bar to see if it makes a difference. I think I saw .72 as I was driving last night but not sure.

For now I am letting it sit (warm and safe in my garage) to spend some time at home before my wife and dogs forget who I am. I don't want to get bit or shot coming in late one night. It's so hard to put the car to bed when everything isn't perfect. Next week or whenever I get a free day, I'll connect my Power Probe to the power and ground circuits of the solenoid and verify control signal. I can measure resistance of the solenoid coil through the circuit from the connector also. It almost has to be either a bad solenoid or a crappy connection since it doesn't work at all, either in 3rd with the selector switch on or in 4th. I did verify ground at pin D with my selector switch on.

I will not again make the mistake of driving it for any distance without the TCC working. I know now that it was heat from the converter not locking, the poor cooler system I used to have, and rush hour traffic on a 95 degree July day that smoked the trans last time.
 
#33 ·
I read somewhere, (and it may of been for the 200 4r and not the 700 r4) that if you use to big of valves, you can have a problem with the second gear band not fully releasing. I know I read that someone had used the bigger valves and had the felling that something was dragging. They contributed their second gear band failure was caused by it. the cure was to shim up the second gear servo piston spring a few thousands because the spring wasn't designed strong enough. I don't know if that makes sense to you. It had something to do with the pressures being to high and the spring not capable of overcoming that much added pressure. Though I would mention it to you, incase you would get that felling something is holding or dragging. I would give it a shot and see.
 
#34 ·
Thanks for the tip on the big boost valves. Just have to see how they work I guess. The one thing I have heard from people running the large valves is that they produce very firm shifts. One guy said he wouldn't be sure about running them with any less than 3,500 stall. I'm right there now. He was running them with a 4,500 stall and seeing 300psi full TV. I suppose if my head gets ripped loose from my shoulders from 1st to 2nd, I'll just need to wear a neck brace from now on. It seems like 250 max pressure that I'm getting now is fine. 270 or 280 would be better. I'm really just looking for more base line pressure from the spring change. I figure the larger valves will also give quicker line rise which can't hurt. I really like that there is no leveling off or drop at high throttle opening with the line bias valve blocked. Thank you Crosley.

Right now I'm reeling a little over the price of the .400 low/rev valve. I thought maybe there was an error or something that Summit had it listed for $53 and change. Then I looked for it at Jeg's and they have it for $75. That thing must be made of unobtanium at that price. I am still going to get the whole set of spring and both valves to try out. I mean it's only money and what's money when it comes to satisfying my obsession.:mwink:
 
#35 ·
I was going to say that I've actually noticed the 1-2 shift is a little softer with the shift kit. I run the wide band and big Superior 2nd servo. Before the kit, the shift wasn't harsh at low throttle just firm and at full throttle it was very firm. Now it is more like a normal trans at light throttle, low speed, then at more than half throttle it is good and firm. I don't know if I like the soft shift at light throttle. I suppose it won't hurt anything and it could also just be the high stall converter absorbing the shift shock. Plus this converter is the lighter 9.5" which is sure to create less gear train shock than the 12" did. The big valves and stiffer PR spring will probably firm it up anyway. We'll see.
 
#36 ·
I'm thinking your right on the shift feeling softer at light throttle with the higher stall because the torque convertor is now absorbing some of it. Have fun with your toy. And your right, you might as well spend it. My kids told me to, or they would after i'm gone.
 
#38 ·
I was thinking about the soft 1-2 shift I'm getting at light throttle. There is nothing I did in the shift kit that should have affected the 1-2 shift. I didn't do the Transgo 2nd accumulator spring change that came with the kit. It's the same setup as used with the 700Jr shift kit. I like the 1-2 shift Ive had since the build last year so I just used the same heavy brown spring I had in there before. What I did change though was the 2nd accumulator itself. Pro Built includes a new small pin 2nd accumulator with the kit so I used it. This morning I was looking at the left over seals(factory 2nd servo seal kit that my unit no longer takes). I noticed the 2nd accumulator piston seal in the bag. I bet that Dana just put the piston in the housing for shipping without the seal installed. That would certainly cause a soft shift at light throttle. Duh. I still have my old accumulator too and it's in fine shape. Either way, I'll install the seal or just swap back to the old piece when I do the PR spring and boost valve swap in the next month or so. I still have to get the TCC working too. I'll test the circuit in the next few weeks for an open and verify voltage and ground to the solenoid. It may just be a junk solenoid. I'll have one on hand when I drop the pan if things look that way after testing.

I also got in touch with Chris at Oregon Torque Converter about the pump I used in this build. Ken who does the pumps is off at SEMA but I can talk to him next week. Chris is pretty sure that Ken sets clearances in the pumps before he ships them. It will be nice to know that I'm good on the pump.

Raining now so the car is in the garage and probably will stay there until spring, aside from a trip or two to the the shop while I dial in the trans. I am anxious to get the trans all squared away so it will be solid for next season.
 
#39 ·
Aren't these tranny so much fun.?!!?. Just got my problem resolved with my tranny fluid being low while hot, and high after sitting a few days. My problem was that If I had the fluid at the full mark when running hot, when shut of, the fluid from my two external coolers would bleed back into the pan. I solved the problem by lowering the two coolers so they are the same height as the top of my pan.
 
#40 ·
I've noticed before that the fluid level in most automatics rises quite a bit when sitting. Try sometime, on any automatic trans, replacing the fill tube seal without first draining the fluid. You get a good three or so quarts draining out of the tube hole. This is way above the running full mark. I understand this to be caused by fluid draining back from the converter, clutches, and gear train. I suppose having the cooler above the trans makes it more of an issue.

On trucks that tow heavy loads, we used to install large fluid coolers with fans just under the front of the bed. This is higher than the transmission. It never caused a problem. As long as fluid doesn't run out the vent, I think you're fine.
 
#43 ·
I just got off the phone with the guy who built the pump I just put in my 700R4. He sets clearance at .0015" I talked to him about base line pressure. he says that line drop at cruise is an issue on the 700R4. His solution is to shore up the TV spring with extra shims. I told him that I have two of the shims from the Transgo kit in there now with the Sonnax high rate spring and I'm getting about 95psi base line pressure. He said try another shim or two. He agrees that a higher rate PR spring should also help.
 
#44 ·
I made up a bushing this morning to shore up the TV spring. I bored a hole in it to allow the Transgo spring shim to fit inside it so that it will increase compression of the spring while still letting the shim do its job. I will also need to be sure that the spring doesn't coil bind at full throttle. I compared coil bind of the Transgo red spring with that of the Sonnax high rate spring. The Sonnax spring hits coil bind about 1/16" before the Transgo spring. The Transgo spring is slightly shorter but may actually be a stiffer spring. I'll experiment with the springs to see which one works best. My goal is to increase pressure on the TV valve at minimum throttle so that base line pressure is increased but still allow the TV plunger to make its full stroke.

Ken from Oregon Torque Converter(the guy who built my front pump) agreed with Dana from Pro Built that the .500 and .296 valves I have are plenty for my application. I get 260psi at full grunt now and may get a hair more with the TCI high rate PR spring. At least I hope the stiffer spring will raise base pressure as that is my main goal in using it. I read yesterday that higher line pressure eats horsepower by increasing parasitic load in the transmission. Maybe some of you more experienced trans guys can comment on this. While I want to be sure I have plenty of pressure to prevent slippage, maybe added pressure beyond that isn't really desirable. I guess I'll go with the TCI spring but forgo the bigger boost valves for now. When I build my new motor in 3 or 4 years and start moving towards 600hp, I may go to the larger valves.
 
#45 ·
Like it when you talk dirty?!. Not many people have any idea what you are talking about except us tranny guys. Like reading about the problems the 700 has because there a lot like the 200 4r problems. My 200 has good pressures, but like yours, mine should have more in fourth, but i'm good to go because I shaved done the piston by 80 thousands and added the third clutch for an additional holding power. When you get it done, let me know how that worked out. I might try something to my spare tranny. I've upgraded it ALOT just for the fun of playing with it.
 
#46 ·
Thank you dwwl for reassuring me that I'm not the only one out here playing with these things. I know that we're supposed to either have a pro do the trans, or follow the instructions in the shift kit, and just live with the results. I have great respect for Dana at Probuilt Automatics who got me this far, and I highly recommend his services, but I still feel like I want more pressure at less throttle and Dana thinks I'm OCD. Of course he's right about me being OCD but I still want more pressure at less throttle. It was cool to speak with Ken at Oregon Torque Converter. He's a 35 year Trans building veteran and he has a great depth of knowledge on these units and their issues. Like Crosley who turned me onto blocking the line bias valve for higher max pressure at full throttle. Ken was right on track with me trying to boost base line pressure.

I know that part of maintaining good pressure at low pump volume is curing internal leaks. I'm sure that my valve body at 30K miles of performance driving and lots of manual shifting probably bleeds pressure around the manual valve at least. At some point I will probably talk to Ken about one of the valve bodies that he also builds for OTC. For now though, the trans is so close to perfect I really think I can get it there with just minor tweaks. I'll post what I come up with after I get done with it, as well as any further brain storming ideas I come up with along the way.

For now, I'm going to install the TCI high rate PR spring. At $16 with shipping, it's a cheap thing to try. I'll play with the TV valve train and the bushing I made up to see how that works. I'm going to pinpoint the issue with my TCC controls to get that working the way I want, and I'm going to address the soft 1-2 shift at light throttle that started with the new shift kit install. I'm thinking I left the 2nd accumulator piston seal out of the new accumulator. Dana says the shift is meant to be mild at light throttle and get progressively firmer with throttle. That's pretty much what I've got now but I liked the shift I had before-firm but not harsh at light throttle and neck snapping at hard throttle-and want to get it back. I left everything affecting the 2nd gear shift the way it was while doing the rest of the Transgo shift kit. All I did was install the new accumulator. I still have the old one which is in fine shape. Think I'll just swap it back in.

I guess as long as I don't wear the threads off of the fasteners in the transmission pulling it apart and putting it back together, I'm okay.:mwink:

P.S. I need to close the book on this transmission at some point and start saving in earnest for my new engine project. That should certainly put my OCD in high gear.
 
#47 ·
Dana put together my kit after I told him what I wanted. Everything was in the kit for a total rebuild. I've have about 2000 miles on my 700, then I decided to paint my Camaro, that was a year ago. In the last year I've only driven it about 10 miles, up & down the drive way an a few runs down the street, no fenders, hood, glass. The last thing I did to it before paint was I found a governor in a 700 that someone elas had torn apart at the pick n pull, don't know what the 700 was in before but the weights on it were a lot thinner than mine were. All I did to it was clean it up an put it in, it made a big difference shift points were higher. Here's a question my torque converter is 2800 stall when I'm in 4th an TCC is locked up, going 70 mph my rpms are at 1900 to 2000 how much slipage is going on in the torque converter or is there any at all since its locked up. Maybe I answered my question, since its locked up there is no slipage. Am I right on that?
 
#48 ·
You are right that with the converter locked there should be no slippage in the converter. There would have to be low pressure at the converter clutch circuit or a damaged converter clutch for it to slip. With Dana's kit(dual feel check valve and increased line pressure), you should feel the TCC engage, not like a hard shift but you should feel it lock, and see the revs drop a little. One clue to the converter clutch being engaged is drivetrain harmonics transferred through the chassis. It's hard to describe but you feel it in the floorpan and seat, even on a stock vehicle without PWM TCC. If you pay attention as the TCC engages, you'll see what I mean. It feels like the rear wheels are solidly connected to the crankshaft, which in effect, they are.

I love the trans with Dana's upgrades. With the Transgo shift kit mods he had me do, I can shift between 2nd and 3rd at any speed and with the boost valves I am running, the FT 1-2 shift hits at 6,300 anyway so I have no shift point issues. I am only trying to raise base line pressure from the normal 90psi to maybe 110 or so. This is strictly to increase clutch apply pressure at cruise(1,500rpm). I don't spend much time at that low rev but on a summer day if I decide to go on a leasurely highway cruise with the TCC locked up, I want to be sure that my 3-4 clutches are tightly applied. This is probably completely unnecessary as I'm sure that 90psi, especially with the brutus 3-4 clutch set up Dana helped me put together, there is plenty of force on the clutches. Last summer though, with the build being much less ideal, I did smoke a really tall 3-4 clutch stack in the very same driving conditions. That's why I'm being so OCD about it this time.

Dana and ProBuilt is the first place I will ever go for trans parts and upgrades. I will continue to recommend him to anyone looking for help with a transmission. I am very pleased with the results of Dana's kit and enjoyed working with him on this. The fine tuning I'm doing on it is just because I think I can perhaps make the trans a little more to my liking. If this doesn't work out, lesson learned. It's all just me learning more and more about these units as I go.
 
#49 ·
I said I would post any new brainstorm ideas I had through this process. This morning I was looking through the growing collection of valves, springs and other goodies I have the for the 700R4. I keep bagging them up and then I keep pouring the bags back out on my table looking for things(OCD is so much fun). I found an extra Transgo no stick TV set, including an extra spacer I didn't know I had. With the spacer on hand, I was able to test my shim and spring setup for coil bind before the spacer engages the plunger and valve. This would be the max compression of the spring in operation. The test confirmed that the spacer engages about 1/8" before coil bind of the spring with the spacer. So, it looks like my shim will work.

The test got me thinking that a tubular spacer may be better than the thin metal Transgo piece. Dana provides two spacers in his kit to ensure the spacer doesn't buckle. I was thinking that a tubular spacer might not only be stronger, but it will also help support the TV spring as it's so close to coil bind. I found a piece of old 5/16" tube and precision sized a piece to the exact length of the spacer. The tube fits my shim and the spring very well and will replace the spacers very nicely.:)
 
#50 ·
You have to think outside the box to really understand these trannys. Some the articles I've read are not 100 per cent correct. I have tore down four 200 4r trannys and everyone had six clutches in the direct clutch assemble. Some of the articles say that they all had five. All mine came from behind V-8 and not six cylinders. I didn't dual feed my 200 because i'm not racing it and i'm only about 300+ pones. For less vibration, I cut a stripe of old inter tube and folded it over and put it between my cross member and the frame on both sides. I know the tranny mounts rubber is suppose to take all the vibrations, but I used that trick from a old mechanic/body man years ago and its worked well for me. I'll see how your trick works on mine in a few days when I got time to see how it function on by spare tranny.
 
#51 ·
Thinking outside the box, well here's one idea, drilling 3 or 4 1/16 holes right above the clutches on the reverse input drum. To expel ATF from inside of it. I can't remember the formula for ozs. of oil spining at high rpms that quickly turns into pounds.
Another little trick I read about was to use .060 cut washers between the torque converter an flex plate. Suppose to help keep the torque converter ingauged with the pump.
 
#52 ·
I'm not sure on a 700R4, what benefit there would be to drilling relief holes in the reverse input drum, aside perhaps from improved lube to the band. However, I did drill a ring of small holes around the top of the input housing. I run the Sonnax Smart Tech housing(read as big bucks) and it uses a bolt on backing plate with no place for oil to bleed off behind the 3-4 clutches. The factory housing uses a snap ring and drop in backing plate where oil can bleed out the back of the housing. I was concerned that the oil being trapped in that spot might hinder cooling. After the later meltdown of my 3-4 clutches, I drilled the holes which allow cooling oil to move more easily through the 3-4 clutches. These small holes will have no affect at all on the housing's brutus strength. Anything to prevent future failure of that clutch pack is good.

My tube spacer is out, replaced with a piece of 5/16" round stock. Playing with the setup to recheck coil compression and look for any issues(read as OCD), I noticed that the blunt end of the tube could catch on the spring coils and prevent normal action of the assembly. The blunt end could also get caught on the shim I made if it falls out of the bore, which is likely during operation. Creating chamfers on each end of the spacer, along with chamfering the leading edge of the bore in my shim, solves the problem by allowing the spacer to slip past the spring coils and into the bore. However, chamfering the tube creates a thin line of tube to act on the plunger and TV valve. I worried about durability and even with the small bit of chamfer the tube would allow, there is still a chance of it catching.

The solid round stock allowed me to create more severe chamfers, cutting each end down to 1/4" and tapering back to create a ramp that will prevent any catching on the spring coils or the bore of the shim. I did also chamfer the inner edge of shim bore. In checking the set up, the spacer slides cleanly through the spring and shim. Now I have an assembly that should work smoothly.

On a different note, I'm again pleased with Summit Racing. For a larger company that could be slow in their shipping, they have done very well for me now on my last 3 or 4 orders. This time, I ordered the TCI PR spring Wednesday about 11:30am. I figured I would wait til next weekend to do the work and ordered the part using the cheapest method of shipping. According to Fed Ex tracking, the part is in town and scheduled to arrive at my door today at 4:30pm. For cheap ground freight, that is quick service.
 
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