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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 10-30-2007, 03:07 PM
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The TV valve that sticks, you can't see, unless the valve body is off of the trans. You will have to take the roll pin out of the vb to remove the tv valve.

This will be the 2nd roll pin you must remove to access it.

And remember, even if it is not sticking when you check it, if it is the problem, it will stick when you put the valve body back on.

It is good that there is not much junk in the pan, gives us hope that by addressing the tv valve, in the valve body, you can fix this problem.

Also the transgo kit has very good instructions and pictures to aid you in this task.

If you are not versed at this, it will be 35.00 well spent.

I will still help you either way though, Even if you are a tightwad

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 10-30-2007, 03:41 PM
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I did check out the transgo website. I couldn't tell which kit you were talking about though. There are not any prices listed on there. I pulled the valve body off the junk tranny, but did not see any way to access that valve. I did see a little pin somewhere though.
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Old 10-30-2007, 05:29 PM
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Had the wife hold down the throttle and release slowly so i could watch that part below. It worked okay, the small shaft like piece went flush with the piece it slides in and out of. Then it came back out okay.
I also messed some more with my junk tranny. I found both pins you were talking about. Si was able to get the valve out of the junk one okay(practice). I know $35 isn't that much but i have spent enough on that truck allready. I (or my wife) would probably not stop saying "you spent more money, for nothing". I think i am hoping with enough playing,wiggling, and tapping around on the valve body,maybe i loosened a stuck valve. I was thinking about slapping it back together and adding a FEW quarts of tranny additives like transX and seeing if that helped along with fresh fluid.
I wasn't for sure if i noted in the begining...that this tranny did the same thing earlier this year. I took it out on our gravel road (mainly in aggravation) and did a few donuts. Well guess what, it decided to shift and work fine for about 2-4 weeks. Then it did it again. Accept this time (even with donuts and spinning tires) it doesn't seem to wanna work. I didn't think i tore up any gears or clutches since it decided to all of a sudden work last time. It almost sounds like something stuck.....
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Old 10-31-2007, 07:57 AM
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OK. The kit is- SK 700-Jr. It's good you have gotten a little practice with the junk unit, now you are a little more versed with this stuff.

If getting the kit is not in your plans then at least do this...

Once you have your valve body off of your vehicle lay the vb down so that you can see all of the channels and valves.

Then lay the separator plate on top of the valve body. I am going to help you find a hole that you need to drill out larger.

You know where the TV valve is, Right? Well let me go through it so there can be no confusion.

First roll pin, opposite side of vb, holds the aluminum bushing, sleeve looking thing. Pull that pin out.

Inside of this alum thing will be a tv plunger,then a big spring.

The plunger is what contacts the mechanism that your cable is pulling, as you push down on the gas peddle. This forces the plunger to collapse the spring then contact the TV VALVE.

The aluminum bushing, the plunger and spring, are not where your problem is.

The TV VALVE Is what will stick, either physically or hydraulically.

So once you have the aluminum bushing, and the plunger and spring out you will need to turn the vb over and remove that "other" roll pin.

Then you can remove the TV valve.

Set the separator plate on the vb, as it would go, if it were in the trans.

Find the little hole that is right over top of where the TV valve sits, in the vb.

This is the tv balance hole. You need to enlarge this hole to .060.

This will help keep the TV valve from sticking.

You will need some valve body gaskets, so go to your local trans shop and ask them if they would be kind enough to sell you some.[they also could supply you with a transgo jr shift kit] OK, forget I said that

Ask them also if they can supply you with a little helper spring that you can put on the end of your TV valve.

If you do these things correctly and if the TV valve was the culprit, then you will have fixed your transmission.

And one more thing longracing25, if you do fix it, I am not taking applications for employment, as this time.

I may have left some pertinent info, if you have questions, just post. Good luck!!
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Old 10-31-2007, 09:40 AM
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What are the chances that this is something much worse. I would hate to find out it is bands,clutches,gears or whichever the 700r4 has. I know my problem sounds pretty common. I am a little leary of removing the valve body. Mainly with the linkages. I had a devil of a time taking the valve body off the junk. I didn't take the time to bend the little wire link straight so it could slip out of the linkage correctly...i just kinda twisted the valve body sideways until it cam off(it's junk so i didn't take time..lol). The valve body seperator plate was pretty much trash, it pulled off in pieces(this is the junk one i'm still talking about,but it was sitting outside and full of water). The plate in the truck should come out in better shape. I would spend the $35 if i new that would fix the problem.
Is this TV valve pretty much the only thing that causes this problem?
Like i had said before, when i bought this truck about 4 years ago, it seemed to shift at pretty high points. I mean, you would start driving and realize "shouldn't this shift"..then it would. Even after they rebuilt it a couple of years ago, it shifted kinda higher than i would have thought it should. I would even get up to speed and let out a little...and then it would shift. That is why i was wondering about govenors and springs.
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Old 10-31-2007, 11:48 AM
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Hate to beat a dead horse but, where you are, right now, is why a pressure reading would be a good idea. What to do, what to do???

You have checked the cable, and the governor and you know these are ok?

You have reverse and first, with no upshift and you said the pan is pretty much devoid of trash.

Again, a pressure test would tell us if tv is a problem.

I can understand your apprehension about dealing with the valve body, but if we saw 100 psi of pressure on mainline, in park, the tv is a problem. What to do, what to do??

If you feel this is out of your realm of ability, then you should trust your instinct.

You could pay a shop to perform the pressure test, then at least you would know if tv is a problem, this may empower you try the repair yourself.

One thing is for sure, this vehicle is of no use to you as it is.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 10-31-2007, 01:09 PM
F&J F&J is offline
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Briscoe; Is there a way to do a pressure test by himself by using a common 120psi gauge from either a air compressor or home water pressure gauge? Is the pressure tap fitting something common like 1/8npt?

I can see where he wouldn't want to pay for a tow & test at a shop, if you guys are getting close to figuring it out.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 10-31-2007, 03:31 PM
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That is a good suggestion, I had thought about designing a go no go gauge, a fitting, with a spring, ball and seat.

One that you could attach to the trans and if the pressure was over 90 psi it would seat the ball, or plunger or whatever.

The spring tension would need to be calibrated and a few little bugs would need to be worked out but.....

I might still do it if I get time, but I picked up a lathe this weekend and I'm trying to get it going.

Anyway, yes, something to see if the pressure is up on this trans
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Old 10-31-2007, 05:38 PM
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700r4 shifting problems

LR25,take Briscoe's advice,I'v read many of his posts-this guy knows what he's talking about.The wife won't kill you for throwing more money away-your TV is sticking-this is the most common problem for the 700r4,Looks like good 'ol GM would have addressed this problem years ago,but then again,no one would be bringing them their chevy's to their factory sponsored service departments would they?I've googled the transgo kit #Sk700Jr and found it for as little as $25.38.Put this kit in your truck and you will have a driveable machine again-not to mention a saleable machine.It will be money well spent. By the way,Briscoe,my torque converter doesn't go into lock-up anymore-is there a way to test the lock-up solenoid?
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 10-31-2007, 07:38 PM
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Yes wvhillbilly, are we talking about your 88 s-10?
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 10-31-2007, 08:54 PM
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s-10

Yep,that's the one-been driving it a lot lately-can't afford to feed my supercharged GTP! LOL
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2007, 01:12 PM
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Ok wvhillbilly, you will need to check for power and ground, in that order.

First, at the ALDL in your s-10, the diagnostic link, we will check for 12 volts.

You can check it down at the trans, but this is easier.

One end of a test light at terminal A and the other at terminal F.

With the ignition on you should have power. This is the power that goes to the trans at terminal A in the trans connector.

If you don't see power at the ALDL, by using this method, then check it at the trans.

If there is no power when you check it, go to the fuse panel, on most models you will check the fuse marked gauges.

Find a good ground and check both sides of the fuse.

If the fuse is good you will need to check your brake switch.

As you check for power. remember- do not depress the brake pedal, as this is the vehicles normal function to cancel lockup.

Note: there may be two switchs at the brake pedal. Check them both.

On the 4 wire switch, the two wires farthest away from the plunger, should have power with the ignition switch on.

On the two wire switch, check both wires, they should both have power with the switch on, depress the brake and only one wire will have power.

If the brake switch fails the test remember, it can be adjusted, so try that first before you buy another switch.

Next we will check for ground. Again at the ALDL, one end of your test light on Terminal A and the other at terminal F.

Now go for a ride, remember if your foot is on the brake the light will not be on.

As long as you know this, it is ok to use the brakes

At the speed at which the converter should lockup, the test light will go out.

When the test light goes out you then have ground at terminal D, at the transmission.

If you have power and ground to the trans, well, lockup should work.

Power and ground to trans and no lockup would mean a problem insde trans, wires, solenoid, etc.

If you are testing for ground and the light does not go off, then suspect that the computer is not clearing a path for ground.

This should get you started, if you have a computer system situation, there are ways around this problem to obtain lockup. Good luck!
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Old 11-01-2007, 08:05 PM
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Thanks Briscoe

Thanks for the info Briscoe about my no-lockup problem.It's good to find help from someone instead of the answer you get from the local trans shops(bring it to us-we'll fix it for a price).I'll do some testing this Saturday after I get home from deer hunting-the only good thing about fall/winter here in WV! Longracing25,what have you decided about your trans? It'll be easier to sell your truck if everything works good, we've ALL bought vehicles that were broken(if the seller comes down in price!) You'll get what YOU want for it-not what someone will give because it's broke.
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