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Old 03-23-2013, 02:55 PM
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heres a pic of my valve and instructions.
[IMG][/IMG]

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Old 03-23-2013, 04:59 PM
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OK...pics are such a help...on that pressure plate,I allways install that with the [thin]step side down against the retainer,so forget my earlier post [really sorry for the confusion].I like the total clutch clearance to be in the .035-.045 range after the air check without those springs in there. And yes,grind that portion of the valve away.It eliminates a possible ''PR buzz when cold'' condition.Like transgo says,it's not picky.A bench grinder works fine to do it.

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Old 03-23-2013, 06:37 PM
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ok thanks on the pr valve and to clear things up the completely smooth side faces the 5 leg plate? I should have started a thread for the rebuild lol. Another question the rebuild kit came with a corvette servo and I took the snap ring steel cover and spring out of my old servo to put in the corvette servo but my transgo says to discard snap ring and cushion spring and install shims and by doing this would the shift be too hard. Should I do the shims or the spring?
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Old 03-25-2013, 01:06 PM
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NO..to clear things up,the completely flat,smooth, machined all the way across the surface side FACES YOU after its put in the drum.That way,if you had a few thin steels,you could start the stack up with a clutch on top of it, instead of a steel,and get an extra clutch in the set-up.If not,then proceed with your stack up as removed,starting with your steel on top of your allready installed smooth side up pressure plate.....and yes,follow the instructions carefully,and do the servo mod. If it shifts harder than you like,it will be because of the corvette servo you are using,not the mod you did to it.That mod,as well as the rest of that kit,focuses more in proper shift timing[cleaner shifts],not hard shifts..

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Old 03-25-2013, 01:41 PM
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And before you put that servo in,be sure that the check ball in the back of that servo bore freely moves up and down in its cage.
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