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Old 08-09-2011, 10:45 PM
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700r4 slip yoke movement

Can anyone tell me the allowable movement of the slip yoke, u-joint end, of a freshly rebuilt 700r4/4l60 with a new yoke and yoke bushing? I just spent two months tearing out the 6 speed, rebuilding a 4l60 ( not 4l60e) put the new aluminum drive shaft with new slip yoke in this evening and I can move the transmission end of the drive shaft .04 to .06 (guestimate). ARRRRGH!!
I did all of this work preparing to run the Texas Mile. With my tire and rear end combination the drive shaft should be spinning about 7000 RPM through the speed traps ( if the motor's got the juice). I don't think this kind of slop will make the drive very pleasant.
I ditched the 6 speed because I couldn't get rid of the slop in the slip yoke!!!
IEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!
Damn, I'm frustrated.

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Old 08-11-2011, 05:47 PM
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Let me get this straight-are you saying that where the driveshaft plugs into the back of the transmission that there is "play" or run out that allows the shaft to move up and down a little bit? This is NORMAL. The yoke should not be a tight fit in the bushing in the back of the trans. .040" is perfectly fine. This little bit of looseness should not be a problem.

If you are experiencing vibration issues within the driveline, it's not because of that little bit of play.
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Old 08-12-2011, 10:21 PM
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Yeah, that's right. The radial runout is, I measured it with a dial indicator, 0.40. I know that some movement is normal and even required.
I'm hypersensitive because I just removed the ZF 6 speed because I couldn't get rid of a severe driveshaft vibration. I went from a 2.5" stock steel shaft to a new 3" steel shaft and the vibration got worse!!!! It's a long story but I went back to an automatic, this time a 700R4, and when I got it together, including the new aluminum drive shaft (by now I've got almost a grand in driveshafts) the play seemed excessive. I had my local tranny man replace the new bushing with another new bushing. The yoke is new so this will be as good as it gets.
I'm prepping the grocery getter to run the Texas Mile. If I can get 150+ mph, the drive shaft, with my drivetrain and tires, will be spinning as much as 7200 rpm.
At that speed, I really really don't want any driveshaft problems.
I hope to have the wagon back on the ground tomorrow to try out the new tranny and drive shaft.
I'll post the results.
Thanks for your interest and post.
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Old 08-17-2011, 08:24 PM
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Just getting back to reading this post. If you are experiencing a drive-line related vibration, there are many other culprits to be looking at before the actual shaft. Especially considering how much you have already spent in replacing shafts. Try this test-raise the back end of the car up off the ground, chalk the front tires, use jack-stands AND a floor jack to keep the tires off the ground. Put the car in gear and bring the speed up slowly watching for the vibration to start. Have a friend walk around the car just visually looking at the springs for hopping, the wheels/tires for out of round, bent, or otherwise damaged.

If nothing obvious, have him lay on the ground beside the car-NOT UNDER IT OR ANYWHERE HE COULD GET RUN OVER IF THE TIRES SOMEHOW HIT THE GROUND!--and using a flashlight, look at the drive shaft, transmission mount, etc;

If you have access to a lift, simply put the car on the lift with you behind the wheel and then run it up to the vibration point.

Since this sounds like a purpose built car, are you sure you have the right drive-line angles? If the car was lowered, engine set back, transmission angle changed, or rear axle inclination changed, any of these things could cause the vibration you are experiencing. Did you weld new spring perches on the diff in this car??? Change suspension set up to a 4 link or other??
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