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Old 11-14-2002, 06:08 PM
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Post 700R4 strong enough???

I have a 89 chevy P.U. 350, 10.0:1? Auburn posi 373. Good low end torque. I'm getting my trans. rebuilt and I'd like to get some opinions. The guy doing it says; Corvette servo, better sprag gears, more clutches 8 (than factory 6) some telfon coated (something?) and ten vain pump with steel retainers?. I need to know is there anything else I need to do, besides trying to explain the above any better? And I am useing a B&M 2800 stall. Thanks

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Old 11-15-2002, 03:02 PM
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Sounds like the guy has a good idea. A Transgo shift kit would be the best thing you could do to a 700R4. Anything B&M should be avoided on a 700R4.
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Old 11-15-2002, 08:58 PM
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Jason, what is the problem with a B&M stall converter with a 700r4?
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Old 11-16-2002, 02:48 AM
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Might want to check out www.700r4.com
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Old 11-16-2002, 06:37 AM
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[quote]Originally posted by catdad2u:
<strong>Jason, what is the problem with a B&M stall converter with a 700r4?</strong><hr></blockquote>

I have known too many people to have problems with B&M converters in general so I will never use one.
And I strongly believe that B&M offers No products that help the 700R4. Their shift kits for other transmissions may work OK but the 700 is a little more complex and needs to be built right in order to survive.
If you already have the converter use it if it's new, don't even think of installing a used 700 converter without getting it cut open and inspected. If it works it works. If it's a lock up converter don't lock it up under any driving condition other than steady cruise. Some people like to lock their converters when they race to get faster times, etc, this will ruin most converters except for those made for that abuse such as Precision Industries Vigilante converters.
And don't lock it up in any gear lower than fourth with a trans that shifts hard, stock applications can do this because of the soft shifts.

[ November 16, 2002: Message edited by: Jason ]</p>
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Old 11-16-2002, 06:58 AM
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Jason, thanks for the input. My converter is a new one. everything on the truck is new($$$$). It is the only B&M part I have. I know the do's and don'ts of driving od trans but didn't have the knowlege of beefing one up. I trust the guy doing my trans, but, when the wallet gets a little lite I want to make sure I'm using the right combos. And actually under stand some of them. Thus questions questions questions. Hey bro, thanks again.

awsum34, that was a cool site. Lots info, cool dudes. Thanks

[ November 17, 2002: Message edited by: catdad2u ]</p>
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Old 11-25-2002, 04:17 PM
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I'm going to have to say that the 2800 converter might be a little much for the truck. One of my co-workers had the same converter for two years before finding out that it was the cause of some overheating problems. Being the serious car nut/engineer that he is, he found that the stall converters don't mix well with that era of Chevy trucks. Every time he pulled any sort of grade, his engine temp would climb to 260+. He checked the tranny temp and found that it was reaching well over 300 degrees. Changed back to a stock converter and all problems were solved. Other than the torque converter and a Borla exhaust, his truck was completely stock...1991 Chevy w/350 and 4L60E.
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Old 11-25-2002, 09:15 PM
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I agree with chrome on the 2800 stall. I would be shocked if you didn't toast the tranny with it. Your stall speed will be at or above the cruise rpm on all but interstate driving I would think. I can't remember for sure, but I think my 92 silverado 4x4 had 3.73 gears and at 60 mph only ran about 2300 rpm. I don't think I ever hit 2800 in OD. Believe me, 700r's don't like heat and you will make lots with that combo.
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