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Old 12-29-2002, 07:44 PM
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Post 700R4 Transmission

I am installing a 700R4 transmission in a 67 Camaro with a 350 in it. I would like to get some info. on the cross memeber. Can I use the one I have by altering it? If so, where do I get the specs for the alterations? If I cannot use the one that I have where do I get a new one? Also I nees all info. that I can get about the wiring. Thanks.

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Old 12-30-2002, 04:53 PM
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There is some good information on wiring for the 700r4 at this website. I used it to figure out how to wire mine. He also has some dimensional info there too. Might be able to use it for your cross member question.


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Old 12-30-2002, 06:08 PM
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Just went through the same deal with a 74 Corvette. I used my original crossmember and I think you can use yours. What I did... I measured the orignal installation before removing the old trans. I got a vertical distance measurement from the top driveshaft near the yoke on the output shaft to the top of the trans tunnel on the body. This is a little crude but it works so that you will have favorable angular alignment of the driveshaft when your done.

Next I bolted up the 700 trans and left it sitting on my floor jack so I could raise it up and down as needed to get as close to my original measurement as possible. Once I got to my measured spec. I determined that I needed to extend and step down a bracket to meet the trans. mount "mounting height". Make sure you bolt the mount to the trans for your design work. I used 5/16 plate steel or thicker. I started with a piece of plate 4" wide and about 9" long. Before heating and bending the step on my bracket I used an old computer box card board to shape and make a pattern. From there it was just clamping the plate in a vise and a heating bending process to match the shape of my card board bracket. Then I drilled my holes to bolt to the cross memeber and the trans mount. Important use at least 3/8" grade five or better nuts/bolts not the junk dorman stuff. When drilling your holes center punch and then start small-- drilling 1/8", then 5/16" then jump up to a 7/16" for bolt fit. You should also slot your holes about (3/4" long} parrallel to the bracket for adjustment purposes. Even the General did that on the factory componets. If you can... work your steel so the excess hangs over towards the back of the car then you can easily go back and cut of the excess with a cut of wheel.

All in all once I got started this took about an hour. Now I bet you will also have to shorten/lengthen your drive shaft. If so call a good company and ask them how they want you to measure for shaft length. I have found the guys that do the big truck work really understand all the driveshaft dope and most of them are spicer yoke and shaft experts my shaft was 27" and with new yoke and u joints and a balance job I had $90.00 plus tax in the shaft work. Don't mess around with this do it right. Next the most important thing to remember is that when mesasuring for shaft length the full weight of the car has to be on the suspension...if not the geometry of the measurement will be why the heck off. Also you need to determine depending on your 700R4 design whether or not you need a long yoke or short yoke. This is important to make sure the yoke is being supported properly by the output shaft bushing in the tailshaft housing.

As for the wiring deal I found it to be simple and understandable after I hooked up with Crosley on here. The guy is great and so is this site.

Good luck

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