72 Buick Skylark, Gasser style HELP
Ok so I'm just starting a 72 skylark gasser-like project...
I want to put a straight axle on the front but I have no idea where to start?
I've got a 455 pontiac motor almost ready to go in but I'd like to figure out the straight axle first before I start buying motor mounts or a kit to swap from the 350 buick that's in it to the 455 pontiac.
Any help would be great thanks :)
Forgot one thing
I'm doing this on a real real tight budget, so if somehow I could utilize my existing k-frame that would be great.
Thanks in advance!
Trying to keep the original front frame section(K-member) just makes this a lot harder to do. Go to Speedway Motors web site and look at their Gasser front suspension and frame package to see what things need to look like. The have a couple of PDF files you can look at too.
You can also search at www.jalopyjournal.com which is the HAMB web site(Hokey ***** Message Board). Lots of Gasser info there, and lots of build pic's. I was just looking at a '55 Chevy straight axle build thread there last night.
Biggest problem with keeping the stock front frame is that the drop section in the center of the crossmember is where the straight axle needs to be causing a clearance problem unless you go rediculously high in front, cartoon-ish high.
I'm in the process of gathering parts for making a Gasser out of a '71 Vega, going to build my own rectangle tube front frame like the Speedway set up, which is like most that were done back in the day.
go to www.hoosiergassers.com they do everything the old school way just there in Indiana :D
I wouldn't put a straight axle under it. Instead, I'd put a dropped axle from a van or puick-up under it. It'll keep the height under control.
Weld a piece of tubing across the frame horns up by the radiator support area to keep them in place and knock out the factory cross member. It's a ton of weight used to control the IFS. It's also in the way if you need to drop the pan after a race.
That's one of the reasons old school Gasser's had axles under them. The bigger reason was weight transfer. But, they were often serviced in the pits for things like broken oil pumps and such. Much easier with a smaller cross member that allows the pan to come off w/o jacking the motor out of the frame.
You can get a weld-in tube cross member with the correct motor mounts for your block easy enough :)
And since I just bought into a '72 Buick GS w/o rotating assembly, I'd like to see some others done this way. I'm trying to talk my partner into a Chevy Van axle under our car, but he's hangin tough for the factory IFS ...
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