[zzarich]

i have a 72 455 with hooker headers, a 750 cfm edelbrock carb, and a full flowmaster exhaust system on it. i would like to know how to get some more power out of it...

thanks

[richard stewart 3rd]

Hi
Welcome to Hotrodders.com Glad to have you with us

A 150 shot of nitrous.
Rich

[zzarich]

thats not exactly what i had in mind..

[richard stewart 3rd]

Well then, what are you considering?
Rich

[mud bros]

if the budget allows a nice set of alum heads would really put some pepper in the tank.

80hp plus in some of those later b.o.p's

next would be some rear end gears in the 373-410 range if you dont already have some.

that will cool your jets for a short time

[zzarich]

how much would the heads cost me? and which gears would be best?

[DENCOUCH]

Originally Posted by zzarich

thats not exactly what i had in mind..

A shot would give you more power, your motor is almost perfect as is for this consideration.

What are you looking for and what is your $$$ arrangement & ability?

Knowing what type of car this is going into would make a great difference in any recommendations that other could offer.

The way the question is posed, is too open ended for those serious about offering any help or taking your question seriously.

You gotta work with the people here... Two sentences is not even close to "working", and it appears to the casual reader that the path you are leading us down, is for everyone to toss out an idea for you to try on like a pair of shoes until you see something you like?

C'mon, ya gotta work with us here on this...more info please!

[zzarich]

my money arrangement isnt the best and im looking for my car just to be more fun to drive, like having the ability to mash the pedal down on get throw back into my seat and this is a 1972 cutlass supreme and its in pretty good shape with around 70,000 original miles on it and its not a daily driver.

feel free to say what else you need to know

[mud bros]

Originally Posted by zzarich

how much would the heads cost me? and which gears would be best?

closer to 373 if you do alot of driving around 60mph
and 410 if you want a short trip street bruiser.

a kik but set of heads will run around 1500

[zzarich]

Originally Posted by mud bros

closer to 373 if you do alot of driving around 60mph
and 410 if you want a short trip street bruiser.

a kik but set of heads will run around 1500

ok thankk you

[DENCOUCH]

Originally Posted by mud bros

closer to 373 if you do alot of driving around 60mph
and 410 if you want a short trip street bruiser.

a kik but set of heads will run around 1500

Like this guy said!

Go to your favorite wreckers and spend $200 for a rear end with 3.37 gears.

If you have jackstands and a floor jack, change out the whole rear end...

Straight forward and easy to do... faster with the help of a pal, and it will make a difference when you mash on the go pedal. Cheap.

[zzarich]

Originally Posted by DENCOUCH

A shot would give you more power, your motor is almost perfect as is for this consideration.

What are you looking for and what is your $$$ arrangement & ability?

Knowing what type of car this is going into would make a great difference in any recommendations that other could offer.

The way the question is posed, is too open ended for those serious about offering any help or taking your question seriously.

You gotta work with the people here... Two sentences is not even close to "working", and it appears to the casual reader that the path you are leading us down, is for everyone to toss out an idea for you to try on like a pair of shoes until you see something you like?

C'mon, ya gotta work with us here on this...more info please!

my money arrangement isnt the best and im looking for my car just to be more fun to drive, like having the ability to mash the pedal down on get throw back into my seat and this is a 1972 cutlass supreme and its in pretty good shape with around 70,000 original miles on it and its not a daily driver.

feel free to say what else you need to know

[zzarich]

Originally Posted by DENCOUCH

Like this guy said!

Go to your favorite wreckers and spend $200 for a rear end with 3.37 gears.

If you have jackstands and a floor jack, change out the whole rear end...

Straight forward and easy to do... faster with the help of a pal, and it will make a difference when you mash on the go pedal. Cheap.

would it be easier just to replace the gears and not put a new rearend in?

[DENCOUCH]

Depends on your experience and if you have ever swapped out rear end gears before.

Lets look at costs new gears vs a used rear end.

Both cost about the same in $$$, and the real savings is in time and the amount of expertise required:

A junk yard rear end can be bought complete drum to drum. To remove the old rear end the steps are simple and easy with no special tools required.

Unhook the driveshaft... unhook the brake lines & emergency brake cable... undo the two lower shock bolts... undo the spring perches... drag out the rear end. rinse & repeat with new rear end.

Setting up a new rear end gear set requires removal of the rear end from the car (to make it easy), removal of the gland nut holding the pinion gear to the drive yoke (torqued down 180+ lbs)... pinion gear pulled out of the case... all this after you have drained the oil, pulled the c-clips.. the axles... spider gears + bearings + shims (keep them in order!).

Etched in the new pinion gear is a clearance that you must use when setting the clearance between the ring & pinion gear... use shims for that. Then check to see if you need to shim the pinion gear closer to the ring gear so that the gears mesh correctly in drive & coast modes.

Baby the new gears by driving a moderate speeds for the first 1/2 hour of operation... allow to cool then drive for reals. I have left stuff out... like adding the fluid, but the real argument here is that it is faster to just change out the rear end if you want it done fast (4 hrs at most).

Once you decide to swap rear ends, you job is to find the best one out there, at the best price, the most complete drum to drum with brake lines still attached... with the gear set you want.

Bonus points for you if you snag a posi unit! You will be glad you did.

[zzarich]

Originally Posted by DENCOUCH

Depends on your experience and if you have ever swapped out rear end gears before.

Lets look at costs new gears vs a used rear end.

Both cost about the same in $$$, and the real savings is in time and the amount of expertise required:

A junk yard rear end can be bought complete drum to drum. To remove the old rear end the steps are simple and easy with no special tools required.

Unhook the driveshaft... unhook the brake lines & emergency brake cable... undo the two lower shock bolts... undo the spring perches... drag out the rear end. rinse & repeat with new rear end.

Setting up a new rear end gear set requires removal of the rear end from the car (to make it easy), removal of the gland nut holding the pinion gear to the drive yoke (torqued down 180+ lbs)... pinion gear pulled out of the case... all this after you have drained the oil, pulled the c-clips.. the axles... spider gears + bearings + shims (keep them in order!).

Etched in the new pinion gear is a clearance that you must use when setting the clearance between the ring & pinion gear... use shims for that. Then check to see if you need to shim the pinion gear closer to the ring gear so that the gears mesh correctly in drive & coast modes.

Baby the new gears by driving a moderate speeds for the first 1/2 hour of operation... allow to cool then drive for reals. I have left stuff out... like adding the fluid, but the real argument here is that it is faster to just change out the rear end if you want it done fast (4 hrs at most).

Once you decide to swap rear ends, you job is to find the best one out there, at the best price, the most complete drum to drum with brake lines still attached... with the gear set you want.

Bonus points for you if you snag a posi unit! You will be glad you did.

wow okthats a lot,do u know what a shop would charge to put that on for me?