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727 end play measurements , clutch pack clearances ?

9K views 25 replies 3 participants last post by  stuarta 
#1 ·
A friend of the family has recently asked me to go through an early 70s 2wd 727 for him. He has a 1975 duster that is tubbed, ladder bars, 4 speed , stroked 440 = 500 ci. He is in his late 60s and his knee can't take the clutch anymore.

Ive built 2 47 series and 2 48re transmissions for diesel trucks. I have the atsg books for those trannies but I haven't ordered one for a 727.

I was thinking .010 per clutch but I wasn't sure what I should shoot for endplay wise. It's just a street machine.

He bought a cheetah street valve body, 3k rpm stall converter.

Thanks
 
#4 · (Edited)
If you want a faster 1-2 shift,a 5.0 ratio hemi band apply lever works nice...it is a 3.8 that is in there now.TCI and others sell them......and get rid of the wavy direct clutch (top)snap ring,and replace it with a flat one for a much better 2-3 shift....I also drill a .045-.050 hole thru the bottom of the rev.servo to bleed off any possible cross-leak pressure that might be there when not in reverse.
 
#8 ·
It had a wavy snap ring in the bottom of the forward drum holding the Belleville spring. Is that the one you mean ? What about drilling a hole for the rear sprag?

It had flat snap rings in the top of both the drums.

I'll drill a hole. It won't affect holding pressure for when he is launching the car hard ? This thing can break the 18.50x30" mt streets loose like nothing with the 4 speed.

This thing only had 70 miles on it with the last build by somebody else and it dropped the anchor for the first band and he parted the truck out after that
 
#6 ·
It was behind a 440 2wd ram charger in the past. Now it's going behind a 500 ci stroked 440 with Edelbrock rpm heads, Holley 850 hp, narrowed d60 floater rear suspension with ladder bars. The guy is owned the car for 41 years. He use to race in the late 60s at Connecticut drag way. He has an impressive photo album. He raced hemi's pro stock.
 
#15 ·
You guys ever see a front pump missing a bolt - but it looks like they did it from the factory and there is a fluid passage coming out of the hole. I ask because the guy who built this before cut a few corners and I can't tell if he stripped out the hole or if it's some kind of added passage. The dinor Trans has a bolt there and my 47rh rebuild book shows a bolt there. It's not a blind hole though
 
#16 ·
That must be an earlier pump...that hole is normal..no bolt there...BUT,It's a good idea to shield that hole...I don't remember why tho. We used to be a warranty center years ago for a major trans company(not gonna say who,BUT it wasn't fairbanks or TCI),and one of their updates was to shield that hole...Take a small piece of tin,drill a 5/16 hole in it.That attaches to the pump bolt next to that hole.Then trim the tin where it extends from the pump bolt to just over that hole. Be sure that the tin sits below the pump washer surface....Simple to do,but the mod is up to you.I'm Only passing it along.
 
#17 ·
Thanks for the tip. I realized after I posted there wasn't a flat spot machines for the bolt head. I'm working on the forward clutch pack now and I have a choice between a metal ring or a plastic ring that goes between the Bellvelle spring and the wave snap ring . Which would be better ?
 
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