"CABIN FEVER" was my last ever attempt at a joke...
(or maybe/probably/likely I'm not comprehending what you are writing so this is my last post)
how much power are the 2 low psi cylinders costing you?
blink your eyes twice quickly....(= 2/10th's of one second)
that's about how much quicker max your car's ET slip would read at the strip if all the cylinders did test 150-160psi
all that a static cranking compression test tells you is a rough estimate of how many miles till a rebuild will be needed...
did you test the CR with a vac guage, in the garage and on the road? 25Hg versus 24Hg on a downshift= only 4% less power WOT = that's such a small loss you can't tell it at all driving with a 260HP motor
did you do a compression test on the 10/1 motor to know for sure that all cylinders do test equal and the rotating assembly is in good working order????
(so far that's your reason for buying it...)
if someone offered me a $3,000 full race motor for $500...I wouldn't pay him a dime till it was thoughly tested and inspected...especially on a 10/1 full race motor that was run on 87 octane!!! (it only takes one "kaboom" to ruin it)
"killer good deals" do happen (I've found one so far in my lifetime)
"if" the 10/1 motor does test good...sell it for $2500? and buy a 9/1 383 long block...that's what you keep saying you want....
ps: 383= 10% less mpg...it's 10% more cubes sucking 10% more gas into the cylinders at cruise
good luck to you,