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Old 07-06-2013, 01:22 PM
My79Ford400ciF1504x4's Avatar
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77 460 into 79 F150 4x4 4 speed

I have a 1979 F150 4x4 with the 4 speed with granny low that I have swapped a 77 460 engine into.

I used a Summit Racing Part Number: MCL-463222 460 internally balanced flywheel and I was told to use a 12 inch 84 ford diaphragm style Diesel clutch that I bought from O'rileys. Everything bolted up good and all and didn't seem like anything was binding up. We put it all together and to make sure it released we ratchet strapped the clutch fork back as far as it would go toward the t-case, put it in gear and turned the output on the tranny and the clutch seemed to release and you could hear a slight drag of the clutch as it was spinning on the flywheel. So, I assume I don't have any clearance issues?

However, once we got it all in the truck and started hooking up the clutch linkage it doesn't seem to release the clutch from the flywheel, or like it seems like I run out of enough room for adjustment and the pedal starts to get really stiff. Do i need a longer piece of all-thread to lengthen the distance that I can adjust it?

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated, I really hope that the engine doesn't need to be pulled back out again or anything. In the mean time I'll start trying the longer all-thread for more adjustment range and hope it works, thanks.

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Old 07-06-2013, 11:19 PM
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Which bellhousing did you use? I assume, the 400CI bell.. The only way I know to make a 4spd work on an internal balanced 460 is a stock or replacement 390 flywheel, stock 390 clutch and the bellhousing for a 351M/400. Those bellhousings/ clutch setup is a tight fit for the 460, so it's gotta be right or it will not work. Only way you can get more room is the bell for a 1980's 460 truck with a T-19 4spd but they are rare and expensive, also are only setup for a hyd clutch. There are also $$$ aftermarket options..

My thought is, you have the wrong flywheel or the wrong clutch, possibly both.You may get by just by having the flywheel cut to the minimum thickness, but those things are not cheap so it would be a last resort. Try the allthread first.
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Old 07-07-2013, 12:20 AM
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do you have an adjustable fork pivot? Is the linkage flexing?Is the bell crank at the correct adjustment?Is the rubber clutch pedal stopper too big?
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Old 07-07-2013, 07:55 PM
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Clutch Linkage

Well, I tried the all-thread It seemed to maybe start working, I adjusted it out pretty far, wasn't enough, and kept going more and more and it just seemed like it was the same thing. So for kicks I just put it in granny and started the engine held the brakes and you could hear the clutch slightly rubbing and smell it. I don't know if adjusting farther and farther is making any real difference, it seems that even for all the extra inches that I have moved it its still the same. I did the same thing of ratchet strapping it back as far as it would go, and I mean tight to the point that it eventually slipped off as i was using a pry bar to operate the ratchet strap. And with the lever as far back as it would go there was still a drag from the clutch moving the transmission so I couldn't shift it. Do I just need to let that puppy burn off till it stops or something I dunno. I am not sure when I strapped it out to max where it actually maxed out at, where it was the fork hitting the bell housing or the clutch wouldn't push in any more, is that possible? The clutch as I said above is an 84 diesel clutch that was operated hydraulic or whatever, do those need more travel? If I can determine what maxed it out I can maybe figure out what I need to do if thats the issue, If its the bell housing then thats not a problem, and I can trim some stuff or make a spacer for the pivot point to back it off the housing. But if its that the clutch physically wont push in anymore then it would seem that my friction plate is too thick or something? Any Ideas? I was unable to continue messing with it today due to the actual bolt that connects the pedal to the lever that moves the rod up and down through the floor pan twisted off and broke, so gotta mess with that first. Any thoughts you got would be a big help, thanks.
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Old 07-07-2013, 07:59 PM
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I would think that you need more travel. The clutch fork pivot location may not offer the correct geometry to provide the amount of travel the pressure plate needs .
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Old 07-07-2013, 08:19 PM
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If its a hydraulic clutch,make sure the system is bled .Make sure the firewall is not moving when stepping on clutch pedal(flex) The firewall bending is common.and another thing,with my adjustable clutch rod,I had one made that was a bigger diameter because the ford rod bends. Take the rubber stop off the clutch pedal,and,,,, the OEM disc fits better than after market.Ive also had to replace the pedal assembley in my 88
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Old 07-07-2013, 08:20 PM
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Clutch Linkage / Travel

That seems like it could possibly be my problem, so would adding space between where it pivots on the bell housing and the fork give me more travel or what would I need to do? I really don't wanna take this engine back out. See that's the reason that I used this 84 clutch is cause a guy told me that its what works from some forum that he read, and it sure did. I just cant find that same article or forum post that gave the idea for using this clutch on this application and what else needs to be done to go with it. The clutch was off a hydraulic and my linkage is mechanical.

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Old 07-07-2013, 08:24 PM
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Rather than re design the whole thing I would put in the correct pressure plate for the truck.
If you increase the distance rom the center of the clutch to the pivot point the pedal effort needed to operate the clutch will increase, maybe to the point that it will be too difficult to depress.
Moving the clut ch pivot will require removal of the bell anyhow, and a lot of messin around.And that may not work if the bell casting is too thin.
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Old 07-07-2013, 08:26 PM
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Like I said before, that bellhousing is very tight and only has a couple clutch/ flywheel configurations that can be used. L&L makes a setup, otherwise you can use 390 flywheel, and either a 390 or a 351M/400 clutch and it will all bolt up and work.. You might get lucky and be able to have your current flywheel milled to min spec and have it work.
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460 swap, 4x4, 79 f150, engine swap, ford engine

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