78' 010 Truck Block for 383? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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Old 04-12-2013, 01:59 AM
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78' 010 Truck Block for 383?

Hello, this is my first post here. I thought I'd introduce myself. I am 19 and not new to engines or cars or trucks. I have rebuilt many 90's small block chevys, ford 5.0's, 1 351w, and a few gm v6's.

I have a 86' S10 that my dad and I have restored inside and out... it simply awaits a new more powerful powerplant and matching drivetrain.

My goal is for a 10:1 "425 reliable hp" 383 91 octane street motor, on a 2 piece rear main seal block. I am thinking of using the Scat 1-40805 Forged rotator kit, then have it balanced locally. A retro roller setup with a XE282HR cam, with worked over 906 casting vortec heads with proper valvetrain.

My question is, since this is my first build using a block older than anything I have worked with, did I pick a good block to build on?? I picked up a virgin 1978 3970010 4-bolt block out of a big school bus for $50. No part of the motor showed abnormal wear.. All bearings looked good, cylinders looked good, piston skirts looked good.. This block has the cast 3412 main caps and only has "010" casted under the timing cover and near the oil filter. I have been doing hours of reading trying to figure out if the late 70's 010 blocks are thinner or weaker than the older ones, but I cant get a definate answer with this homework. Do any of you guys have any input on this?

Basically I dont want to pay for machine work for a stroker, just to find out these are weak blocks, haha, thanks!

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Old 04-12-2013, 04:31 AM
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The block will work just fine. In it's stock state it could move around a cheese wagon then I would think GM had no doubts it was strong enough.
I have seen some blocks cast in 1979 that were rather thin, but these were the basic passenger car 2 bolt blocks.
If you have any doubts about your block and want to be absolutely safe then have the block sonic checked. If I were looking to build a stroker project I would use a 1 piece seal Vortec block, that way I could use a roller cam without having to pay the retro roller price.
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Old 04-12-2013, 06:28 AM
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welcome to the forum. Building a conservative engine for a heavy truck is a good choice.Enjoy the project and post pictures of the engine as you build it.
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Old 04-12-2013, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleVision View Post
The block will work just fine. In it's stock state it could move around a cheese wagon then I would think GM had no doubts it was strong enough.
I have seen some blocks cast in 1979 that were rather thin, but these were the basic passenger car 2 bolt blocks.
If you have any doubts about your block and want to be absolutely safe then have the block sonic checked. If I were looking to build a stroker project I would use a 1 piece seal Vortec block, that way I could use a roller cam without having to pay the retro roller price.
I agree.
GM part number 10105123, casting numbers 10243880 or 14093638. 1986-2002 HD GEN 1 applications, 1 piece rear main seal. 4 bolt straight mains on the 3 center mains. $752
This block weighs 181 lbs.

peace
Hog
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Old 04-12-2013, 09:45 PM
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Thanks guys. Ya I want to run a two piece rms for the abundance of parts. And its costly yes but I want an old school block with link bar rollers. The stroker kit is also an internal balance kit for a 2 piece rms. I will be bringing my block into the machine shop for boring, line honing, hot tank, and clearancing next week. This is my first stroker and retro roller build so I will make a new thread soon sharing all my steps with you guys.
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Old 04-13-2013, 03:18 PM
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Do a 383 search right here on the site, you'll find enough build information to make your head spin!
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