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Old 04-19-2010, 10:11 PM
rxlmod rxlmod is offline
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whats your budget? ill try to give u a vague idea of what u need to do if u need more info i can email u or something. u can drop the upper coil mount to save money but id suggest that you buy a set of lifted ones from superlift or someplace else. but to drop it u need to grind the rivets holding it on off and pound them through (obviously you need to have the frame on jack stands and the old coils out of the way) then take a peice of 2x4 heavy wall tubing and make a spacer to put under the frame and behind the mount weld it on add gussets and weld every where possible, transfer punch the location of the holes making sure it is in alignment with where it used to be. drill the holes, bolt them on. make a new track arm bracket that looks simmilar to the old one just longer but use 3/8 or even 1/2 in metal. theres alot more torque on it hanging way down and gusset and reinforce everywhere possible. once u look at the radius arm mounts itll be pretty simple to just make some that drops the mounting point down 4'' or use offset c-bushing on the axle housing. BUY A DROP PITMAN ARM dont scimp on your steering thats important. your driveshaft will be too short now u can run it as it is and eventually destroy the splines or you can lengthen it. i think it needs to be about 1'' longer chuck it up in the lathe holding onto the splined end take your cutting tool and with the lathe in a very low gear scribe a line on both ends of the shaft for alighment later then cut the ends off dont destroy them though use the lathe to cut them not to deep. get a new piece of driveshaft tubing the right size cut to length. use the same method as before to scribe a line on both ends press in the old ends making sure the marks line up. weld it back together you no longer have a balance driveshaft but its a big 4x4 anyways new u joints and vibration just come with the teriitory. get new longer brake lines ive used cheaper methods for the brakes before but im not gunna sujest them. then just throw the front end back together i dont think i missed any thing up there. now the back end. take a peice of 2x3 heavy wall tubing dont remember the length weld 3/4 plate to the top and bottom drill a hole .5'' from the center on one side for the alignment pin then flip it drill and ream a hole for a dowel pin the correct size about .5" deep .5'' from center the other way so the hole and pin are offset 1'' to bring your rear axle forward so your driveshaft will be lond enough. press a dowel pin in. make 2 of these. if you can thread on a lathe you can make your own u-bolts thread about 3-4'' in on each end of a peice of high quality round bar i used 4130 thats cut to the right lenghth. bend your u shape in a diacro or something similar. put ur blocks in with the new u bolts. to make the shock spacers take some 3/4'' cold rolled round cut to 4'' or so and tapp both ends so they match the threads on your shocks screw on end of 3/4'' on to your shock then screw a piece of redi rod in the other end and let about 2'' stick out and put all the bushing back on the redi rod end and put in back in the truck.
thats about it in a nutshell i highly suggest u dont do this makin your own suspension parts is dangerous if u are not a good fabricator/machinst. i hope nobody gets mad about the very long post.
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