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Old 02-16-2007, 12:06 AM
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79 TA, t top leak, windshield cracked

getting rid of my current 79 TA, and buying another, the one I am going to be looking at has 455, and doesn't appear to have any body damage for 3300. Seems fair, smokes the tires on dry pavement they say. One T top leaks, passenger side, I haven't had any experience fighting a t top leak. Any tips? Also windshield cracked, like a softball hit it, twice. Does anyone have any knowledge about the cost for a 70s TA windshield replacement cost?

Also I would like to say thank you sincerely for all the help I have received from these forums, your advice has been invaluable to a moderately to seriously(current level depends on current booze and testosterone levels) retarded 20 year old male, myself. Thank you.

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Old 02-16-2007, 08:45 AM
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t-top

I also had a 79 TA with a t-top that had that problem from new and would occasionally leak, But I found if I released it , and repositioned it , it would stop leaking. worth a try as new seals are expensive.. I also installed a built 462" olds with dual quads and a 700R4 trans and 2:73 rear gear, LOTS OF TOP END SPEED !! but the 455" motor is wider and taller, so I could not use the air conditioning, and had to use ELEVATOR bolts to retain the SHAKER hood. I would highly recommend SUB FRAME CONNECTORS...
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Old 02-16-2007, 08:54 AM
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Leak tops

Front glass should be about $180 & labor to install, if you don't do it yourself. New T-top weatherstrip around $270. On my car there was some rust in the T-top channel that I fixed by welding patches and judicious use of epoxy. The leaks may be from worn rubber, or you might try fitting the T-tops down tighter by adjusting the brackets on each end, or it may be a sign of rust holes letting water in. Properly and carefully restoring the T-top area can create a leak-free roof, as I have done... Order up all the Pontiac restoration catalogs, like Year One, The Parts Place, Classic Industries, etc. Steele Rubber Products or similar for weatherstripping. Local glass shop for glass & install. Shop around.
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Old 02-16-2007, 01:36 PM
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thanks for the help guys
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Old 02-16-2007, 06:20 PM
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My friend has an 81 camaro (same car as a firebird basically) and we could not get the tops to stop leaking. Installed new GM gaskets and adjusted the tops for days and it still leaks badly. I would not buy a T top car.
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Old 02-16-2007, 06:30 PM
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Unfortunately, the late 70's were not a good time for Detroit iron. Poor workmanship and bad communication between the workers and management = bad product. I had a 72 Formula Firebird that I loved. It was a terrific car but still had some shoddy body work from the factory that I had to fix. After 74 the Firbird took a turn for the worse. IMHO, I'd get that 79 painted and sold asap and use the $$$ to buy a 73 or older Firebird.

There was a numbers matching Formula 400 on craiglist Dallas not long ago for around $2,500. Somebody got a good deal. That's what I'd watch for if I were you. Dump the 79. Sorry....

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Old 02-16-2007, 06:39 PM
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computer glitch.... sorry wrong thread.

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Old 02-16-2007, 09:30 PM
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never fired 350 swap

ya, I ended up not getting the t top. Somebody beat me to it. I know exactly what you're talking about with shoddy workmanship.

I've got a 79 TA hardtop, and instead of buying a whole new car, just bought a rebuilt, never fired 350 Chevy bored .030 over, 0010 block 4 bolt main, 186 64 cc heads date coded correct for 69 Camaro 302 Z28 (i think they used the same heads in 350's in 70' z 28's, cast crank, flat top cast pistons, blueprint 350 350 hp hydraulic cam, and it's going to pared with Edelbrock intake and 650 carb. TH 350 behind that and highway gears in rear. Work on those gears in few months. Anyway, never swapped engines before and I am in the 2nd grade when if comes to engines. Any pitfalls anyone can steer me away from before I start? The guy I bought it from said I should get the oil throughout the whole engine before I start it by using a drill to pump the oil pump through a hole in the rear of the intake. Never heard of this, but if does make sense to me, the idea at least. He also said to take tension of springs he has all the valves closed. He said I need to set them back to factory specs, where do I find that information? I assume that that also requires some sort of special measuring device.
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Old 02-17-2007, 07:42 AM
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t tops

Quote:
Originally Posted by shoddy_f-body
My friend has an 81 camaro (same car as a firebird basically) and we could not get the tops to stop leaking. Installed new GM gaskets and adjusted the tops for days and it still leaks badly. I would not buy a T top car.
YES, my passenger side T top leaked from the factory when new also, but repositioning them and rolling the window up and down a couple of times always stopped the leaks, but you are working on a much older car now so I agree you may have to replace gaskets. If you put any power in the the T Top cars, USE FRAME CONNECTORS !!!
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Old 02-17-2007, 10:28 AM
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The great Gen. II F-body

Quote:
Originally Posted by tab
Unfortunately, the late 70's were not a good time for Detroit iron. Poor workmanship and bad communication between the workers and management = bad product. I had a 72 Formula Firebird that I loved. It was a terrific car but still had some shoddy body work from the factory that I had to fix. After 74 the Firbird took a turn for the worse. IMHO, I'd get that 79 painted and sold asap and use the $$$ to buy a 73 or older Firebird.
The 1979 Pontiac Firebird was the most popular ever made. All second generation 1970 to 1981 Firebirds and Camaros are basically the same car. The only reason some people like pre-'74 better is because that was the last year of the factory high-po engine - the 455 SD. However, later 455s, 403s, and 400s can be made to run, easily. Also, any V-8 GM ever offered will fit on an F-body subframe.

So, with the right engine, the Firebird will be as powerful as any musclecar. With subframe connectors, good sway bars, solid mounts, etc. the Firebird will handle equal to any muscle or ponycar. With the right craftsmanship and new paint, the Firebird will have as quality a finish as any car on the road or in show. I know because I have done so and at a fraction of the cost of buying an original high-po factory musclecar.

The 2nd generation Camaro/Firebird was a great-engineered car. Build it right and enjoy it!
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Old 02-17-2007, 05:34 PM
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oh I agree with you 100 percent. The 79 is an awesome car, and they did make a ton of them in 79. So the quality did suffer on a few, and I think mine was one of those few, but at this stage if could just be the previous owners that half-assed a lot of things. No matter what shape it's in, it's still a trans am. BTW what kind of paint is that, it's like red, and orange. That's awesome.
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Old 02-17-2007, 09:52 PM
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House of Kolor

The color is House of Kolor Kandy tangerine base coat - KBC08. This paint is a base coat clear coat paint made of a mixture of pigment, candy and pearls, so it has more translucency than conventional paints, but is not a true candy. Its appearance does depend on the color of the ground coat to a degree so I used Ko-Seal metallic silver sealer under this base coat. Depending on the light it looks like an earthy red-orange to a popping orange metallic in bright sunlight.
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Old 02-18-2007, 10:41 AM
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Very nice, makes my Mayan Red '79 look dull.
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