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79 TA, tie rod end replacement by partard possible?

1K views 10 replies 8 participants last post by  Chopt 48 
#1 ·
So my steering is really loose, les schwab guy explained to me that it's the tie rod ends, evidently they give out somewhere about about 150 k. They wanted 500 to do it, but I was thinking I get some moogs and maybe do it myself Possible by idiot? I did one of the front springs, and I was very frustrated with it. So I'm a little less then enthusiastic about doing the these tie rod ends. What all does it involve? Special tools required? I looked on summit there was tie rod inner 70$, and tie rod outer 25$, do I need to buy both, or just the inner? Thanks for any help.
 
#2 ·
Depends whats worn out.............Most of the time, its the outers that wear.

Its an easy job....You need a pickle fork to separate the joints and some wrenches. You should get it aligned after changing them. To get them close. I count the number of threads showing on the joint and set the new ones there........
 
#3 ·
the local auto parts store should have what ya need in stock. Usually it is the outer that goes first. Loosen the the lock bolt and nut. Then remove cotter pin that goes thru the bigger nut, then remove big nut. Now ya need that pickle fork to seperater the tapered shaft from the tapered hole. You might be able to rent or borrow the pickle fork from the local parts store if ya buy the part from them. Advance auto here will lend you the tool with a deposit if ya buy the part from them. Ok so you drive the pickle fork inbetween the tie rod end and the arm. it should pop right out of there. now count the turns as you unscrew the tie rod end. then screw the new one in the same turns and tighten every thing up. you need to have the car aligned now.
 
#4 ·
In the real world of Murphy's law, allow your self plenty of time. 150K of miles and more importantly 30 years of rust in the threads, of the sleeve will be the issue. Do measure the threads, and have an alignment after repairs. Because as little as 1/2 turn changes the toe setting a lot. Happy wrenching, no cussing.
Dave Tallant KC Mo
 
#5 ·
I found an easy way to approximate the alignment if you're only changing the tie rods. Put the front of the car up on ramps, and replace the parts, making sure the wheels don't turn one way or the other. You'll have to adjust the rods to make each one the same length as the one it replaced, and it won't go together any other way.

If they're that old, it might be a lot easier to get new sleeves. They're not that expensive, and they won't fight you like the old rusty bent ones will.
 
#6 ·
They are all pretty well correct. Soak the sleeve with PB Blaster. Squirt it in the slot in the sleeve. That will help the tire rod turn in the sleeve. You only loosen the bolt/nut that tighten the sleeve on the end you are taking off. Check the sleeve to make sure it isn't sloppy on the rod ends. I have seen a few that were.
Definitely count the turns when you take it off and screw the new one in exactly the same number of turn
As mentioned above pull out the cotter key and take off the nut. Although I have a pickle fork I don't usually use it as I prefer to give the end of the steering arm a good square hit >O--- right on the end, this usually will pop the tie rod stud out of the end.
Don't what ever you do hit the stud on the end.
I never use a pickle fork on a tie rod end or ball joint that I intend to reuse as the pickle fork usually damages them and cuts the rubber boot.
 
#7 ·
Chopt 48 said:
...
I prefer to give the end of the steering arm a good square hit >O--- right on the end, this usually will pop the tie rod stud out of the end.
Don't what ever you do hit the stud on the end.
...
Steering Arm? :confused: The spindle?
I'd never heard of that method before.
How big of a hammer are you using? :D

If you run the nut up flush with the end of the stud, and then give it a good whack ... you can generally bust them loose without "mushrooming" the stud or buggering the threads.
 
#8 ·
You don't hit the stud or the nut. You hit the end of the eye of the steering arm where the tie rod stud goes through it. You have to be pretty well in line with the steering arm it's self and hit the outside end square. It will usually pop the stud out with one good square hit. The key is hitting it square. I have a pickle fork and the scars on my right hand to prove it. I'm left handed and a 2-1/2 lb hammer is pretty hard when you miss the pickle fork an hit your thumb.

I use a 2-1/2 lb machinist hammer.
I did front end and brake work for Firestone Tire and Frank Weaver Pontiac and W.H. Thomas in Waco Texas in the early and mid 70's and in shops in Yakima Wa. I also taught high school auto mechanics for 13 years.
 
#9 ·
Chopt 48 said:
...
I have a pickle fork and the scars on my right hand to prove it. I'm left handed and a 2-1/2 lb hammer is pretty hard when you miss the pickle fork an hit your thumb.

...

I did front end and brake work for Firestone Tire and Frank Weaver Pontiac and W.H. Thomas in Waco Texas in the early and mid 70's and in shops in Yakima Wa. I also taught high school auto mechanics for 13 years.
The hitting your thumb thing made me wince. :sweat: :smash:

Obviously you have plenty of experience with steering components, and I, admittedly, have very little.

I'm in the business of selling parts ... and only work on my own stuff ... so I'll definitely try your method some time.

So, no spreading pressure on the joint at all ... just hitting the steering knuckle at a 90° angle to the stud then ... right?

What about the inner t/r end on the center link ... any advice, tips, or tricks there?
 
#11 ·
You do have to use the pickle fork or a tie rod puller (clamp type setup that has a bolt that pushes on the stud of the tie rod end. to get the inside. Example http://www.toolking.com/productinfo.aspx?productid=8550

My comment on using the hammer only to knock out the tie rod ends was based on personal experience from years of working on cars for a living where time is money. I found that the method I described worked quickly and easily. You also don't have to go out and buy or borrow a pickle fork if you don't have one.

I can understand that some people who don't have a lot of experience working on cars and trucks except for working on their own vehicles believe that there is only one way to do things but quite often the pros find simpler and quicker ways to accomplish a task. We also end up with a few battle scars on occasion.
 
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