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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 11-03-2010, 09:19 PM
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How’s that hopey-changey thing
 
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I am thinking the coil is no good or the coil wire , you say I have a spark at the points. That says the ground to the distributer is sound and the primary side of the coil is good also.

What is not happening is spark too the plug, that happens on the secondary side of the coil. A coil is a step up transformer; as the points open and close it cause the 12 volts to become the lighting bolt that jumps the plug gap, simply stated.

Electrically it is done by inductance, the ballast resistor is causing a voltage drop, and that is the function of a resistor; across the primary side of the coil it will also cause a drop on the secondary side.

I would loose the ballast resistor let the full 12 volts energize the coil. The question I would have is are you sure of the coil and coil wire, the points system is a very simple circuit.

In a nut shell 12 volts to the + of the coil from ignition on . The - side of the coil too the points, that is all there is to it.

How it works
As the points open and close it will cause the voltage on the primary side (windings) of the coil to go from 12 volts to 0 volts that is a sort of AC . This 12 volts turns in to lighting because there are more windings of wire in the secondary side, that is connected via the coil wire, rotor, cap and out to the plugs ...... Speaking of the rotor what is its condition another possibility.

Make sure you have the capacitor on the points, its purpose is to protect the points from excessive arcing and spark that will burn and carbon up the contacts.

Also in your post you motioned that you have a wire connected to the starter relay, that does not sound correct, The 12 volts for the points/coil should be coming from the ignition on, reason so that when running you can shut it down, kill the power to the points/coil.

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Last edited by pepi; 11-03-2010 at 09:37 PM.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2010, 01:07 AM
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im with pepi on this . close scrutiny of the coil , rotor button and coil lead may hold the key .
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2010, 07:50 AM
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How’s that hopey-changey thing
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slayerpker
The other side I ran a 10 gauge wire to the + side of the coil, along with a 10 gauge wire to the R terminal on the starter. .
Noticed this: "along with a 10 gauge wire to the R terminal on the starter"

This wire is not needed.

You have two wires on the + side of the coil, you only need a supply voltage from the switch.
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Old 11-04-2010, 09:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pepi
Noticed this: "along with a 10 gauge wire to the R terminal on the starter"

This wire is not needed.

You have two wires on the + side of the coil, you only need a supply voltage from the switch.
I thought you need the extra voltage when starting it? hooking it up to the return on the starter motor allows it to bypass the ballast, but only when starting it.
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Old 11-06-2010, 12:12 AM
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Hey, so i have a question. If you have a 12 volt coil, do you need a ballast resistor then?
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2010, 07:12 AM
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How’s that hopey-changey thing
 
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First did you get it running? as to the ballast not sure what the thought was, not even going to try and guess. I have only seen them used on SOME GM cars, most all points style circuits work pretty much the same.

If you get this thing started without it you can wire it back in. I suggest you might stay with the simplest circuit with the least amount of components to get things running. If after that you would like to wire it back the way you have .... fine as long as it will run.


If you really want to know what a ballast resistor does read here .

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_ballast



"I thought you need the extra voltage when starting it? hooking it up to the return on the starter motor allows it to bypass the ballast, but only when starting it."

WHY? because of the voltage drop through the ballast? if it needs 12 volts to start it needs 12 volts to run, I think that R means run, and is hot when the ignition is on; a ground is a return.
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Old 11-06-2010, 10:14 PM
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I finally got it started. after working on it for maybe 8 hours, disassembling it and reassembling it maybe a dozen times and double checking it with tdc just as many, I randomly turned it a alot, and then when I tried it, It started to fire. I went ahead and continued to retard it and It seems to be happiest at 30 below tdc, and it will only fire between 34 and about 24 below tdc. I don't know why this is, but it is what it is.

I asked a mechanic friend of mine, and his best suggestion is that the distributor rod itself might be slightly off.

I personally have no Idea, its beyond me. in all honesty This was the first time ever that I have ever tried timing it using my timing light, dwell meter, etc. In the past I have always just moved the mark to tdc, and then gone by ear after that.

I guess I just have better luck with that.

I just decided to check my dodge (d200 w/ 318) with the light and it likes it at about 14 advanced.

Oh, and its not just my cheepo light, I tried it with a eqquis and a snap on timing light and both read about 1 point off of my $10 dollar one.

As for the R on the Starter I'm pretty sure that the the R was for providing extra voltage when starting the engine. When running through the ballast and cranking the engine, I only get about 3.5-4 volts out to the coil, off of the starter, I get about 8.5-9, but only when the starter motor is running.

I Also googled it, and my first result was this:

sbc starter selonoid "r" wire Confusion

Last edited by slayerpker; 11-06-2010 at 10:22 PM.
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