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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 01-28-2013, 09:04 PM
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Are you doing cam break in or are you into engine highway break in you mentioned 4000 rpm and 100# pressure and climbing?


Jester

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Old 01-28-2013, 09:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69chevyLWB View Post
Temp was in a heated shop kept constantly at 55F. never inspected relief spring in oil pump just looked at the roll pin that was installed so that the spring couldnt be tampered with. screw on filter also is stock style that has bypass in it. should i pull the pan and look at the pump and inspect or continue with break in?
Unless you installed a high pressure pump from which you expected a 100 psi cold idle, I'd surely drop the pan and pull the pump. Quality being what it is these days pumps need to be disassembeld and inspected before use, it's become quite a problem.

When using the old (and trusted rule) of 10 PSI per thousand RPM there is little reason for an engine to operate with more than 70 PSI hot and that would be 7000 RPM which most engines can't reach, not to say yours isn't designed for that, I don't know.

I personally like more pressure at idle so work with a variable rate spring and oil viscosity. My Frankenmouse motor with 15-40 in it idles cold at 55 psi, that quickly rises to 70 where the relief opens when the RPMs climb. Hot it idles at 25, cruise RPMs of 2000 in overdrive nets about 55 psi this climbs to 70 at 3000 RPM where the relief opens.

Bogie
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Old 01-28-2013, 09:23 PM
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well i dont know what pressure is like at idle because since it is break-in i tried not to let it idle. took it too about 2500 rpm and pressure was about 80 lbs. only reason i blipped it too 4000 was to see if the bypass would kick on and if the pressure would keep rising. really thinking i should probably drop the pan and look at the pump. what should i look for when i pull it apart so i know if its the spring of whatever is wrong.
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Old 01-28-2013, 09:34 PM
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Finnish your cam break in at 2000 rpm drain that break in oil to get out the contaminants change the filter add some zddp and 10 30 oil restart and see what your oil pressure is If your engine has very close tollerances it might be a little high if you ordered a high volume high pressure pump but forgot to open the pump passage or chamfer the crank oil holes! If its an early block and your getting pressure in the rear move your sending unit to the front of your block and see what the reading is.

Jester
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Old 01-28-2013, 09:45 PM
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hello

I have a 355 that when cold running vr1 10w-30 she is 75psi and will climb higher if im hard on it, but I usually just keep it cool or drive normal for 10-15 minuts until she warms up a lil, prolly when the oil filter bypass kicks off, and pressure drops to 60 even when pushing the car hard, and never gets below 35 real hot at a stop light. I was worried at first but everyone respectable I talked to said those were all ideal numbers and Id be fine. Let her get warmed up and see. I think anything below 100 will be ok youll just no real soon if any gaskets are leaking because youll see blowby or whatnot creeping out. NO biggie tho. Good luck
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Old 01-28-2013, 09:46 PM
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Just looked back on my order and the oil pump is a standard volume standard pressure unit from summit racing.
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Old 01-28-2013, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by oldbogie View Post
Unless you installed a high pressure pump from which you expected a 100 psi cold idle, I'd surely drop the pan and pull the pump. Quality being what it is these days pumps need to be disassembeld and inspected before use, it's become quite a problem.

When using the old (and trusted rule) of 10 PSI per thousand RPM there is little reason for an engine to operate with more than 70 PSI hot and that would be 7000 RPM which most engines can't reach, not to say yours isn't designed for that, I don't know.

I personally like more pressure at idle so work with a variable rate spring and oil viscosity. My Frankenmouse motor with 15-40 in it idles cold at 55 psi, that quickly rises to 70 where the relief opens when the RPMs climb. Hot it idles at 25, cruise RPMs of 2000 in overdrive nets about 55 psi this climbs to 70 at 3000 RPM where the relief opens.

Bogie
Hi, Hey I thought the bypass was only meant to happen cold untill the oil was warmmed up so it wouldnt have such a hard time trying to go through the filter? Are you guys talking about somthing else? not starting anything but id like to know.
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Old 01-28-2013, 09:53 PM
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Also if your looking for zddp the valvoline VR1 racing synthetic is availible almost everywhere and is a good oil. Just in case your debating what to use.
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 71nova355 View Post
Hi, Hey I thought the bypass was only meant to happen cold untill the oil was warmmed up so it wouldnt have such a hard time trying to go through the filter? Are you guys talking about somthing else? not starting anything but id like to know.
The different pressure pumps have a by pass spring to keep pressure at specs for each particular pump it is the pumps brain the gears in the pump cant control the pressure. the by pass spring is in control cold or hot!

The by pass for the filter opens letting most oil by pass the filter! the filter does not filter all the oil all the time only about 10 percent during running conditions. If you block off the oil bypass all oil is filtered all the time! If you add a heavier spring the percentage goes up!


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Old 01-28-2013, 10:20 PM
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Dual remote parallel filters might be an answer before removing the pan.
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:23 PM
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I am currently using Lucas oil break-in oil and for the next change it will be brad penn 10w-30
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Old 01-29-2013, 05:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 71nova355 View Post
Hi, Hey I thought the bypass was only meant to happen cold untill the oil was warmmed up so it wouldnt have such a hard time trying to go through the filter? Are you guys talking about somthing else? not starting anything but id like to know.
There may be two bypass valves: One may be located in the filter, one may be located in the filter mount. Then there's the pressure relief spring and valve in the pump.

The pressure relief spring and valve in the pump is what sets the oil system pressure, unless the oil viscosity/oil clearances combine to raise the oil pressure beyond the pressure relief of the pump. This assumes a correctly working oil pump pressure relief assembly.

It wouldn't be a big surprise to find the pump has a different relief spring than it was supposed to have, or even that the pump valve is hanging closed. But see what you get for pressure w/the thinner viscosity oil after break in before you drop the pan.
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Old 01-29-2013, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
There may be two bypass valves: One may be located in the filter, one may be located in the filter mount. Then there's the pressure relief spring and valve in the pump.

The pressure relief spring and valve in the pump is what sets the oil system pressure, unless the oil viscosity/oil clearances combine to raise the oil pressure beyond the pressure relief of the pump. This assumes a correctly working oil pump pressure relief assembly.

It wouldn't be a big surprise to find the pump has a different relief spring than it was supposed to have, or even that the pump valve is hanging closed. But see what you get for pressure w/the thinner viscosity oil after break in before you drop the pan.
Thanks, that sounds about right. Thank you too jester.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 01-29-2013, 02:41 PM
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Your scores even 1 thanked and 1 thanks LOL

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Old 01-29-2013, 04:26 PM
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lol just soaking up the knowledge bud.
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