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Old 09-02-2010, 06:03 PM
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82 Buick Regal Motor Swap To 85 Chevy 4.3

I got a 82 regal,, dropped in a chevy 4.3 v6,, only using basic wires to starter alternator distributor. I got the car to crank, my accessory lights are fine, But I have this ****ing weird *** mallory distributor with a Accel Super stock universal coil.
I have the timing set. Well I found tdc and have the wires at the right locations. I tested the #1 wire with plug on a ground and dont see any spark. I only crank a few times and the accel solenoid coil I have gets real hot! It is fused inline and grounded and I have had 12v to it[solenoid coil] and the regal pink distributor wire on the base of the distributor. Still no spark. Switched it around with the pink dist. wire on the solenoid coil for 12v and still nothin. I went to napa bought a new old ford solenoid to rule out a solenoid problem and it still didnt give me any spark also got warm. Has anyone done a v8 swap and used this type of non HEI setup? Heres a pic of what im working with.



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Last edited by 1badassgbody; 09-02-2010 at 06:12 PM.
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Old 09-02-2010, 06:40 PM
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What do you mean by "solenoid coil"?

If the resistance across the "+" and "-" terminals of the coil is 1Ω or less, you need to use a ballast resistor in the wire that used to power the HEI. This wire goes to the "+" side of the coil.

Then run an ignition wire from the starter solenoid to the "+" side of the coil- if the starter solenoid has an "I" (ignition) or "R" (resistor) terminal AND if it's needed. You can try it w/o the extra wire from the starter solenoid's "I" or "R" terminal. As long as it starts up OK, then you can leave it as-is.

If you find that it IS needed (hard starts), you can use a remote Ford-type solenoid that has the I/R terminal.

The "-" side of the coil gets the wire from the distributor.

Last edited by cobalt327; 09-02-2010 at 06:49 PM.
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Old 09-02-2010, 07:52 PM
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so the whole day I had the wrong wire on wrong terminal. I would never think toput positive source on - terminal. will see how it goes tomorrow thanks.
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Old 09-02-2010, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1badassgbody
so the whole day I had the wrong wire on wrong terminal. I would never think toput positive source on - terminal. will see how it goes tomorrow thanks.
The positive 12VDC wire that USED to power the HEI goes to the "+" terminal of the coil. Either with or w/o a ballast resistor, depending on the primary resistance across the coil terminals.

The coil "-" terminal is hooked to the wire coming from the distributor.
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Old 09-02-2010, 08:09 PM
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[QUOTE=1badassgbody] I only crank a few times and the accel solenoid coil I have gets real hot! It is fused inline and grounded and I have had 12v to it[solenoid coil] and the regal pink distributor wire on the base of the distributor. Still no spark.

Like cobalt said put the big pink on the + side of the coil. The - side goes to the wire that goes into the distributor.
You need to reconfirm power at the pink wire after you do as the way you had it hooked up one of those times from what I can tell was a dead short. It may have burnt a fuse link off at the starter
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Old 09-02-2010, 08:12 PM
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Hei 12V+ wire needs a ballast resister and then hooked to positive side of coil. You then need a wire from coil negative side to the post on the side of distributor at the same point the orange wire(with the condenser) is now. Do not ground the negative side of the coil, the negative side has to be hooked to the points like I posted. Otherwise you will not get a spark due to no trigger.
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Old 09-02-2010, 08:25 PM
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You guys are awsome! thanks again I will let u know how it goes.
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Old 09-03-2010, 07:13 PM
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well no dice today. I found that i did have 2 blown fuses but replaced and all seems well with that but still no spark. i swapped wire from the #1 plug to rule that out also. the coil doesnt get hot anymore so that maybe a good thing or bad if its toast. My last conclusion and its a good one is the points. I dont have my camera at the moment but from when i had it hooked wrong, It started to burn and melt the carbon arms on both sides that are the points I assume . I see they do have replacements and hope this will give me my spark. So does it make sense that if the points are burnt you will have no spark what so ever?
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Old 09-03-2010, 07:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1badassgbody
well no dice today. I found that i did have 2 blown fuses but replaced and all seems well with that but still no spark. i swapped wire from the #1 plug to rule that out also. the coil doesnt get hot anymore so that maybe a good thing or bad if its toast. My last conclusion and its a good one is the points. I dont have my camera at the moment but from when i had it hooked wrong, It started to burn and melt the carbon arms on both sides that are the points I assume . I see they do have replacements and hope this will give me my spark. So does it make sense that if the points are burnt you will have no spark what so ever?
Yes, that is true. You will need a dwell meter or feeler gauges to set up the new points for the correct open gap/dwell time.

You may want to look into an electronic conversion for that distributor to eliminate the points, like the Mallory Unilite, Crane XR-I or Pertronix Ignitor conversions. Much better way to go, eliminates all the hassles of points.
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Old 09-03-2010, 07:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1badassgbody
well no dice today. I found that i did have 2 blown fuses but replaced and all seems well with that but still no spark. i swapped wire from the #1 plug to rule that out also. the coil doesnt get hot anymore so that maybe a good thing or bad if its toast. My last conclusion and its a good one is the points. I dont have my camera at the moment but from when i had it hooked wrong, It started to burn and melt the carbon arms on both sides that are the points I assume . I see they do have replacements and hope this will give me my spark. So does it make sense that if the points are burnt you will have no spark what so ever?
Replace the points and condenser. And check or disconnect the radio suppressor on the outside of the distributor in case it was internally shorted to ground by the previous mis-wiring.

The coil may be fried as well, but try the points and condenser first- you need to replace them anyway.

Is this a single points distributor or dual points?
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Old 09-03-2010, 08:08 PM
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It has two points. What and where is the condensor? I just unscrewed one screw and the point assembly came out along with the other side point. Definatley looks shot. Would it work if I used my hei distributor from my buick 231 3.8? Aren't they HEI's that came on the 231's. It just has a few plugs hanging off of it for the ecm that I dont have anymore. So Guess I gotta keep my eyes open for a v6 hei now also.
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Old 09-03-2010, 08:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1badassgbody
It has two points. What and where is the condensor? I just unscrewed one screw and the point assembly came out along with the other side point. Definatley looks shot. Would it work if I used my hei distributor from my buick 231 3.8? Aren't they HEI's that came on the 231's. It just has a few plugs hanging off of it for the ecm that I dont have anymore. So Guess I gotta keep my eyes open for a v6 hei now also.
That may be the condenser hanging off the outside of the distributor and not the suppressor for radio static. If you don't see a part inside the cap that looks like that little can on the outside of the dist., then that IS the condenser.

Setting dual points is different than a single point system, but not that hard.

The BEST thing for you, is to go find a non-feedback HEI dist. for the Chevy 4.3L V6. Not from any other Chevy 90 V6 engine like the 200/229 cid engines- they had a different distributor than the "even-fire" 4.3L V6 engine. And the 3.8 Buick distributor won't work, either.

The non-feedback dist. was used through 1986 on trucks.
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Old 09-06-2010, 01:49 PM
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Just got back from the junkyard and found a pertronix ignitor under a distributor. Hopes this solves all my problems.
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Old 09-07-2010, 06:37 PM
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Ok so today I tried to see if the petronix I found at the njunkyard would work but the magnet doesnt fit over the cam so I guess I will just sell it. I purchased
new points and condenser and coil and finally got the new motor to start. The issue I am now having is it back fires like crazy. I set the tdc and also have a timing light. The car has very little power and barely moves without stalling and backfiring. I REALIZED THERE IS A SMALL CHIP IN THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP on the side and was wondering if that is really the reason for the very little power Im getting and the crazy backfiring every 10 seconds?
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Old 09-07-2010, 06:50 PM
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How did you set up the points?? They can't just be bolted in, they have to be correctly adjusted.
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