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Old 01-22-2010, 12:24 AM
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83 monte carlo power window please help

Ok so tonite I used the control on the drivers side to roll down the passanger window&it just wouldn't roll back up.I assume the drivers&pass window is on the same fuse so I'm guessing its the window motor.well is this going to be hard to replace?I removed the door panel allrwady&can't seem to get the window up manually any help would be greatly appreciated thanx

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Old 01-22-2010, 04:58 AM
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Make sure it's not the drivers master control window button or lockout. I've replaced a few and it's a PITA. You sure don't want to replace the motor only to find the button was bad.
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Old 01-22-2010, 07:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cutthroatkid
Ok so tonite I used the control on the drivers side to roll down the passanger window&it just wouldn't roll back up.I assume the drivers&pass window is on the same fuse so I'm guessing its the window motor.well is this going to be hard to replace?I removed the door panel allrwady&can't seem to get the window up manually any help would be greatly appreciated thanx
Listen closely and see if you can hear the motor run when you work the switch. Try both switches- drivers and passengers.

If you can get a helper, work the switch while lifting up on the window (even if you don't hear the motor working)- this will often work to close it, but it may still not work right afterwards.
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Old 01-22-2010, 04:55 PM
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try simple first???

the window motor mount screws are the electrical ground source for the motor...
water and crap does get to them from worn window seals!!!
if they get corroded there is no juice to the motor...

usually just loosen and re-tighten all the mount screws will make enough ground contact to get it to go up...
(those little motors do pull a bunch of amps)

if that works then remove the screws and sandpaper the mount surfaces for more better ground contact

Last edited by red65mustang; 01-23-2010 at 07:52 AM.
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Old 01-22-2010, 07:20 PM
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Thanx it was a bad contact
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Old 01-23-2010, 07:50 AM
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yur welcome....

my $.02:
you might wear out a driver window motor (and/or switch),,,but the others don't usually get enough cyles/hours to actually wear out the motor...

when the next one quits,,,,before you tear the door apart,,, give the inside panel a few really sharp whacks with your fist (to loosen hopefully a bit of the corrosion)...

window does operate after the whacks,,,you know it is a ground contact problem and easy to fix....
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Old 01-23-2010, 08:34 AM
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window problem

I was working on a Ford pickup that the windows wouldn't work. I checked the circuits with a test light. I was getting the light to come on when I flipped the switches, tested fuse, etc. Very early power window motors had an up winding in the motor and a down winding. The past 30 or more years use lighter motors and the switches reverse the current thru the single winding to go up and down. I finally got out the jumper cables and did a hot stab to the motor and it worked . The problem was the power relay was in an area that water dripped on it and corroded the connections so it wasn't getting enough current to operate. I cleaned every thing with a small stainless "toothbrush" and it worked just fine. and fixed the water problem.
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Old 01-23-2010, 09:23 AM
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I've been running into compact GM's that are rivited in. NFAA! PITA!
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Old 01-23-2010, 02:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sqzbox
I've been running into compact GM's that are rivited in. NFAA! PITA!
GM has been riveting them in forever.
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Old 01-24-2010, 10:52 AM
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rivited = simply use a #10 or bigger jumper wire from the motor body to a good ground point to find out if it is lost ground at the mount (Aluminum rivit and steel in contact with each other don't like each other and do corrode)

a test lamp only needs about .5A? available to light so it can give a false positive testing a motor high amps needed ground source....
all that a test light tells you is there is "some" conductive path available in the circuit,,,ex: only one unbroken strand of copper left in a wire will light the bulb....

a voltage drop test with a meter gives you a clue for how amps conductive the circuit is and/or how worn is the motor itself...
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Old 01-24-2010, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red65mustang
Aluminum rivit and steel in contact with each other don't like each other and do corrode
Steel rivets, like a pop rivet. BIG pop rivet. Imagine the failure rate from Al fasteners used w/windows iced shut, and the thousand upon thousand up/down cycles!

Power window failures where the motor fails to run are most often switch related, in my experience. If not the switch (motor runs), it's the regulator mechanism.

Point is, rarely does the motor actually burn out.

As the OP has already indicated, his switch was bad, if that's what was meant by 'contacts'.

Last edited by cobalt327; 01-24-2010 at 11:39 AM.
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Old 01-24-2010, 02:53 PM
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cobalt,
just to get on the same page in the future???

I do "try" to compose my electrical forum "help me" question answers so it does apply to a car anywhere in the world....
(HR.com threads show up very often as a goooogle top ten pick!!!!)
ex?:
older rust belt cars and FL cars (daily rain and crap in the door) lost ground is as common as a dead switch....
(friggin' license to steal by a garage,,,replace motor and assembly $$$ repair bill when just a good ground was needed)

it's the same 20 "help me" electrical questions over and over and I know Vince (and others) get tired of answering them so I occasionally pitch in...

heck, there are so many excellent "help me" diagnos/repair "how to" net sites for everything/anything on cars (like this link,,,scroll down) they never should be asked on this "how to Hot Rod" forum....

http://www.aa1car.com/carleyware/library.htm

and this article from that site specifically for power windows:
http://www.aa1car.com/library/power_windows.htm

Last edited by red65mustang; 01-24-2010 at 02:59 PM.
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Old 01-24-2010, 06:59 PM
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How does this have anything to do w/my reply? The things I pointed out DON'T happen anywhere in the world? They're incorrect??

If it's troubling to you to read my posts, there's an easy cure (*cough*cough*ignore*cough* ).

EDIT- FWIW, I lived for over 40 years in FL. For 5 of those years I drove a 1979 Monte Carlo. For the last 20 years, I've owned and driven a 1980 Malibu, so I kinda am up to speed w/those power windows, FL weather and those cars in general, but thanks for the update!

Last edited by cobalt327; 01-24-2010 at 10:58 PM.
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