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20 initial 38 final at 3,000 rpm plugs have color on the ground strap in the center of the bend. Runs like a scalded dog after the split sec hesitation! Any suggestions on that timing?
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Once I get it worked out it should run perfect. It runs and drives great, but that slight hesitation when stomping the gas is a little aggravating. It's almost like it starved for gas for a split second which made me think the squirters might be to small.
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Be sure there is absolutely NO clearance between the pump arm and the adjuster nut/bolt at idle. There needs to be a little clearance at WOT so the diaphragm isn't damaged. If that's adjusted correctly and there's no hesitation of fuel from the squirter at the tip of the throttle (both primary AND secondary has to have fuel from the squirter the instant their throttle shaft moves), go 2 or 3 sizes bigger squirter. 28 primary/29 secondary squirters isn't very much for an engine that size, and doubly so if you have an open plenum intake. I would first disconnect the secondary throttle linkage to see if the problem is the primary or secondary. It might need more shooter size on BOTH sides, for that matter. But if you can clean it up by going a couple or three sizes bigger on the secondary side, that'll save you some fuel when cruising around. Be careful using positions other than #1 on the pump cams. Position #2 is usually for when the throttle blades have to be tipped open farther than normal. When that's the case, position #2 will still allow a full pump shot even though the throttle shaft has been rotated open, which would 'use up' some of the cam, if you follow me. Don't use position #3 unless you have the 50cc pump set-up. If you have the time, go over this post on accelerator pumps: excessive backfire and flames! also rocker arm knock Good luck, sounds like a fun ride.
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While I was away I started a page on the Holley accelerator pump, so thank you for the motivation! |
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You are running almost the exact same setup as I am. Except mine is in an 81 GMC truck, and you have a Chevelle.
I have an 850 Mighty Demon carb, and I had all kinds of trouble with it, but it's sorted out now. I have the same vacuum as you, and I also have a 4.5 PV in it. That's exactly what you need. My timing is 18 init and 36 max. Our jets are the same too. I'm running same intake as you. ( awesome choice ) Your hesitation is most likely caused by a lean hit when you dump it hard. I would just make sure you have no play in your accelerator pump linkages, and then start going bigger on your squirters. Also make sure you have your fuel bowl levels set good. I'm sure you got your idle screws dialed in. Sometimes them squirters just don't get that shot in that big hole soon enough. I never had a hesitation issue, I was always on the other side of it. I was constantly pig-rich until I got it all dialed back. BTW... what do you run in the 1/4 mile? I'm just curious what that setup can do, since I have not been able to get mine on the track yet.
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when I ran an 850 on my 67 Camaro 355,I was at S.I.R. and I had #78s in the primary side.It was horrible,,,, I had also forgot my jets at home.
The engine didnt stumble but did not make any power and would not rev out. 80s are minimum for me,I would throw a set of 81s in to start. Thats a small carb for a 496,there should be no hesitation issues at all |
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Recurve the distributor for 24 to 26deg inital at idle and 38deg at max advance.
More base inital, less mech adv travel. Connect the vac advance to the ported vacuum source. To see the effect very quickly, to see if it helps, simply ock out the mehcanical advance system ,, set the locked out timng to 38deg at idle. ( vac advance goes to the ported source.) with the timing now fixed, remove the carb and flip it over and look at the throttle position. Reset the pri and sec throttle idle position at idle so both idle transfer slots have correct exposure at idle. .020-.030" It will now respond much better off idle and idle nicer in general. Once the timing curve and base inital is corrected, the carb may need minor fine tuning of the idle /off idle system ( idle fuel feed restrictions and idle air bleeds) Correct the timing curve, first. Be sure the carb PCV hose is connected to the base of the carb and the PCV is functional. It is a critical part of the carbs idle circuit. Be sure the OEM rear starter motor brace bracket is installed. What cam is in this motor? What is the manifold vacuum at idle when idling in gear? Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 12-27-2012 at 03:35 PM. |
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Yeah, that sounds about right. As you get it all fine-tuned and dialed-in, you could expect to be in the 10's in the 1/4.
I guessed I would be in the 11's with my truck. But you never know until you run it! Trucks are not aerodynamic, so you start pushing against that after a certain MPH. ( Maybe after 70mph or so? ) It's all fun. ( until the money runs out. )
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