'86 Camaro problem - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Electrical
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 10-20-2005, 11:39 PM
CHEVY4LYF's Avatar
'86 Camaro IROC-Z
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Iowa
Posts: 16
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
'86 Camaro problem

I have an '86 Iroc and every time I turn on the lights (the dash lights have to be on...if you turn the dimmer so the dash lights don't come on then the problem doesn't occur). Anyway, when I turn on the lights, the voltmeter, oil pressure gauge, and tach all appear to "shut off" or dip down; and the right turnsignal indicator comes on solid. I've also noticed that at least one of the instrument cluster lights on that side won't come on (and I've checked all the bulbs). Do you think this is a problem with the printed circuit on the instrument cluster itself? Or, could it be a something like a ground problem or short elsewhere in the dash?

Please help!!!!!!!

Thanks,
John

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 10-21-2005, 03:09 AM
ronb's Avatar
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Clearwater,FL.
Posts: 381
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
was the cluster removed recently???
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 10-21-2005, 01:57 PM
CHEVY4LYF's Avatar
'86 Camaro IROC-Z
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Iowa
Posts: 16
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
The problem existed...

The problem existed from the time I bought the car. I did recently remove the cluster as well as most of the rest of the dash components in order to replace some wires for the stereo and to try to figure out this problem...

Do you think it sounds like the printed circuit on the cluster???

If so, is it repairable?

John
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 10-21-2005, 03:38 PM
ronb's Avatar
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Clearwater,FL.
Posts: 381
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by CHEVY4LYF
The problem existed from the time I bought the car. I did recently remove the cluster as well as most of the rest of the dash components in order to replace some wires for the stereo and to try to figure out this problem...

Do you think it sounds like the printed circuit on the cluster???

If so, is it repairable?

John
as you are aware they plug into the dash, about half the time the cluster gets misaligned with this plug(connector) try removing it and reinstalling it again?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 10-22-2005, 05:45 PM
docvette's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Rebuild an alternator Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lafayette, california
Age: 62
Posts: 7,362
Wiki Edits: 12

Thanks: 0
Thanked 6 Times in 3 Posts
Dim line

Doc here,

Here is your schematic,



If you note the Brown wire is the Dim line..Follow that wire and look for points where you may find chafing or short to the cluster board..If that checks good..

Remove the cluster, and PC board CAREFULLY!!!! Those things get brittle! Inspect it for burned traces or anything that may be providing a path to the Gauge power or grounds...Clean with an acid brush any corrosion you may find at the pads using a good electrical cleaner, and be ginger with those, they are brittle too..

Before You start though..CHECK EVERY fuse in the panel with a meter or lamp..It sounds like a loaded Ground..backfeeding another circuit..this will occur when a circuit shorts to another and one or the other fuse is open..(think Christmas lights..)

Doc
__________________
Aftermarket Solutions
Electronic & Electrical
Innovations
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 10-22-2005, 05:47 PM
poncho62's Avatar
Out of the Loop Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Streetbeasts links
Last journal entry: at car show
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Hanover, Ontario, Canada
Age: 62
Posts: 16,926
Wiki Edits: 5

Thanks: 22
Thanked 284 Times in 225 Posts
Sounds like the dash panel is losing it's ground...................
__________________
Ontario Rodders

Budget RVs
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 10-22-2005, 06:00 PM
Henry Highrise's Avatar
Lost in the 60's
 
Last wiki edit: Removing stuck fasteners Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Dixieland
Age: 69
Posts: 15,189
Wiki Edits: 4

Thanks: 0
Thanked 11 Times in 10 Posts
Just thinking....You say if you turn the light switch knob and dim the dash lights out the problem does not occur, but when you turn the dimmer to put that dash lights on then you have the problem. Sounds to me like the problem is in your headlight switch then. Something in that switch is shorted out to the reostat that is built in the headlight switch that dims and brightens the dash lights. I would replace the headlight switch if this is the case and I have understood you correctly.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 10-22-2005, 10:07 PM
CHEVY4LYF's Avatar
'86 Camaro IROC-Z
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Iowa
Posts: 16
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Reply for Doc Vette

Thanks for the schematic. I looked at the back of the cluster (printed circuit) and didn't see any burned spots. Do you know of any procedure for checking/testing the PC with it removed from the car?

I'm going to try to check out the wiring under the dash sometime tomorrow.

Thanks again!

John
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 10-22-2005, 10:09 PM
CHEVY4LYF's Avatar
'86 Camaro IROC-Z
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Iowa
Posts: 16
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Reply fo Henry Highrise

I replaced the light switch a while back and it still does the same thing.

John
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 10-23-2005, 07:47 AM
emtn269's Avatar
New Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: mcleansville NC
Age: 48
Posts: 18
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
86 Cmamro Dash Problem

I'b like to help with your problem of dash lights & cluster. I have two 84 Z28s and had the same or similar problem with both. The H.O. Z28 dash problem I created my self with an engine change, the other Z28 car I bought the car like that. The previous owner was fed up with the problem. I am a electronic tech with 20 years experience in car stereo and car electrical systems. I found the engine ground to chassis and chassis to battery and body to battery ground to be questionable. Check and clean all ground connection under the hood. The connection behind the distributer on the firewall is a good place to start. Good luck!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 10-23-2005, 07:55 PM
docvette's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Rebuild an alternator Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lafayette, california
Age: 62
Posts: 7,362
Wiki Edits: 12

Thanks: 0
Thanked 6 Times in 3 Posts
Card

Quote:
Originally Posted by CHEVY4LYF
Thanks for the schematic. I looked at the back of the cluster (printed circuit) and didn't see any burned spots. Do you know of any procedure for checking/testing the PC with it removed from the car?

I'm going to try to check out the wiring under the dash sometime tomorrow.

Thanks again!

John
Doc here,

To point to point check the circuit laminate, I do the following, Remove it from the cluster , and remove illumination.

Get a printout of the plug and terminal orientation..

Using a DMM set for R x 1 , visually follow the trace from pin 1 at the connector, to its first termination point..Place your probe here, and terminal 1, it should read 000 on the scale..(00.1 to 00.5 is OK if you add calibration and lead length)

If that trace continues on, find the second termination and measure it too...It too should be 000..and so on..

Do this for all terminals...Then when satisfied it's all good, Ohm the terminals to each other, terminal 1 to 2 ...1 to 3..1 to 4 and so on..then 2 to 3...2to 4..well, you get the idea, they too should be 000 between one another..

If you get one with a reading, refer to your diagram, Does It belong there? If not track it down. repair and remove the short..

It's a good indoor rainy day project, requires a bit of patients and time to do it right..

AS to grounds, I suggest you set your grounding system up this way, to assure good bonding:

The physics of bonding..

You should set up your ground buss in this manner, for good LONG LASTING , reliable bonding:

The battery cable ground to any handy bolt at or near the starter.

From there, get a battery cable that has 2 3/8 ring terminals on it ($6 bucks at wally mart or auto parts place) and ground that to the frame..



From that same engine block ground at the starter, run 2 #10 wires, the first to the firewall, and the second to the alternator ground lug or mount bolt...

USE proper Star washers,

..


Sheet-metal screws / bolts and locks, and burnish ALL the paint and grease from the grounding areas..this will give you a rugged reliable grounding system that will most likely outlast the car...

For total proper bonding, you should score a roll of braided ground strap, and install braided strap in the following manner: Doors to Door posts, fenders to frame, hood to firewall, radiator to radiator support, trunk to body, and finally , gas filler flap to body, again, burnish, use stars and locks, you can use tech screws if no handy screws are around..

This will insure the body is at ground potential..AND provide GOOD RFI protection for radio and communication devices!

Ground is the most overlooked problem in vehicle trouble shooting, and the most common cause!



Doc
__________________
Aftermarket Solutions
Electronic & Electrical
Innovations
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Electrical posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
400 pontiac into 86 camaro MN'maro Engine 6 10-17-2003 09:12 AM
Problem Returns DoubleVision Engine 3 05-02-2003 07:52 AM
DAD IN NEED OF DIRE HELP! (86 Camaro) veg_eta_ble Engine 3 04-21-2003 05:58 PM
Major Brake Problem... HELP ME! 98rocket Suspension - Brakes - Steering 8 03-17-2003 05:22 PM
69' camaro master cly. problem josh7681 Suspension - Brakes - Steering 3 12-31-2002 04:40 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:07 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.