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Old 05-31-2011, 01:04 PM
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86 Silverado Wiring

There is a group of wires running between my fuse panel to the starter and alternator. Long story short, they got burned, because they were touching the exhaust manifold. I want to run new wiring from the firewall on out for these items. What gauge wire should I use and also can someone explain the importance of a fuseable link and would it be possible to use an inline fuse? When these wires got burned it fried my ignition switch that is why I am asking about the inline fuse rather than using a fuseable link.

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Old 05-31-2011, 06:22 PM
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On my '75 GMC they used a 0 gauge wire from the battery to the starter, 10 gauge wire from the starter to the junction on the firewall (fusible link on starter end), and a 12 gauge wire from there to the fuse box (fusible link on junction end). There is also a 10 gauge charge wire with a fusible link from the starter to the alternator.

Newer GM trucks have some changes that simplify things. The key difference is that there is both the 0 gauge wire that runs down to the starter, and an additional 8 gauge or larger wire connected to the positive terminal.
- 95 and newer trucks: 8 gauge charge wire goes directly from main battery lug over to BAT terminal on the alternator. It still has a fusible link on the battery terminal end. The main power wire is a separate cable connected on the same side-post terminal with a long post, and it runs over to a fuse/distribution box under the hood.
- 88-9x trucks: Main power wire (with fusible link) goes from battery terminal over to a junction on the back of the firewall. From there one wire runs over to the fuse box and another runs over to the alternator.

I like the 2nd scheme because you can leave the fusible link in the main power feed line at the battery and its easy to see and reach. From the junction on the firewall you can still use fusible links in the charge wire and power to the fuse box, or you can switch to using a high amp fuse instead.

Bruce
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Old 06-01-2011, 08:03 AM
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Thanks for the reply Bruce. I disconnected the wiring to the starter and alternator last night and followed it back to junction on the firewall. It appears that there is a fusible link at the firewall and one at the starter. The wires at the starter are burned up.

I checked at the part store last night and they only had a single wire fusible link whereas the stock ones connect to two wires. Should I just change each of these over to the single wire setup?

Also I seem to have a mixture of 8 and 10 gauge throughout. I currently have quite a bit of 10 gauge wire available. Is there any reason I can't use 10 gauge throughout?
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Old 06-01-2011, 05:13 PM
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I have not see a two wire fusible link. You just need to buy a link that is sized for the wire it protects. For example, on a 10 gauge wire you use a 14 gauge link (two wire sizes smaller).

Depending on the output of your alternator and the draw of your fuses, 10 gauge may be too small. When I upgraded from the stock 63 amp alternator to a 94 amp 12si, I switched to an 8 gauge wire with 12 gauge fusible link.

You can use the info on this page as a guideline.
http://www.tessco.com/yts/industry/p...get_wired.html However, I chose to be a little conservative and use a wire gauge that was larger than the minimum.

Bruce
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Old 06-02-2011, 10:06 AM
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Well it appears after removing all of the wiring and what must have been a full roll of electrical tape that the previous owner had spliced a lot of these wire by simply twisting the ends together and wrapping them with tape. After looking at everything closer I don't think I have any fusible links, but just a bunch of factory looking Ts that have black resister type looking thing where the wires combine.

I guess my question now is should I just buy a maxi distribution box and just run one wire from the starter to the box and send everything out from there? Also, right now it appears that there was a wire going from the alternator to the starter. Shouldn't this be ran directly to the battery? I'm just curious what might be the most efficient setup, because I don't want to have to rewire this thing again or have it burn up on me.
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Old 06-28-2011, 08:15 AM
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Been gone for a while, but wanted to let you guys I know I rewired most everything straight from the firewall side of the fuse panel and soldered in fusible links in a original locations. Everything is working great and the truck is running better than it ever has. I have no brake lights, but I'm sure I'll have that figured out when I tear into it tonight. Thanks for your help Bruce.
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