87 s10 v8 conversion
My son recently purchased an 87 s10 project with a v8 (350) already in it the mounts are welded directly to the frame, we now have the engine running (started up). We put in a turbo 350 tranny and are now trying to set up a radiator and serpentine system as he will only bev running power steering & alternator. The first headache is that there are no boltholes in the heads. we have been told to run the serpentine system from an 89 s10 (4.3) and that we will have to use the reverse flow water pump as well. We have bought all the brackets, tensioner, idler and pulleys from the local chevy dealer. Can someone tell me that this will work before we start drilling the heads? Also, can someone tell me if the drive shaft will need any modification for this setup?
Plus we got a new vette radiator, which is 1/2" taller. will this present us with any more problems? If there is anyone familiar with this set-up and can give me any other advice it would be greatly appreciated!!
it will most likly be cheeper to just buy a set of heads that have the hole for accessories then to drill and tap them. that way you know that those hole are exacyly where they are suppossed to be. don't get me wrong,there are sone very good shops out there but why take that chance? but if the system you bought allthe stuff it might not be that much of a problem because the serpintine system uses a bracket that bolts into the lower portion of the block right beside the timing cover where the cranck sticks out as well as the bracket that bolts to the two exhaust bolts on the passeger side of the motor. just don't forget the bar that bolts onto the intake from the idler pulley.
sorry,that bracket that bolts up to the exhaust bolts is on the drivers side.[hic] too many beers today
Seems like we have just got a steering pump from a monte carlo or something close to that year. I just end up using a v style fan pulley, alt, and pump. Saves alot of money. I would take the stuff back and go this route if you still can. I've always used heads with holes for everything but that isn't a problem. Take a look at a set up from a 60's car with no bolt holes. Summit has some nice brackets made for this application as well. Good luck.
This may not be much help because I'm pretty green at this myself. There are some real experts who use this site, and they can help more.
I'm doing an S10-SBC conversion myself ... a 91 Sonoma with a 98 5.7 Vortec. I live in CA so smogging the final product is a big deal, and seriously restricts what I can do. You're going to see lots of "bluesman123" questions!!!
Anyway ... what you have is an old engine. To convert it to use a serpentine belt may be more trouble than its worth. Here are a couple of suggestions:
1. Keep the short block, assuming you are comfortable with its condition, and update the heads. The bowtie performance choice today is the vortec head. Its relatively cheap and you can get it already drilled to accept older intake manifolds (else you will also need to buy a new manifold &c &c &c). If you don't use the serpentine system the engine ends up an inch or so longer, and there isn't much space in there!!
2. Look for a crate engine from GM. Several places sell them ... Scoggins-Dickey and Pace Performance Parts are two.
Your drive shaft may need to be shortened. Measure the distance, as closely as you can, from the face of the oil seal at the rear of your tranny to the flat-part on the U-Joint saddle on your differential and call your local drive train specialist. The number for our local (California, Pacific Coast Time) place is 925-682-3340. There are lots of places that do this but these guys were nice to me. It cost me about US$100 to get my driveshaft shortened, balanced and a new u-joint.
The corvette radiator should work fine. Remember to plug the temperature sensor hole unless you are using it (did that make any sense at all?? duh!). The crosspiece at the top of the front body-thingy (hell ... I don't know what its called!!) may have to go. I cut mine out and replaced it with a piece of angle stock. That gave me the extra 1/2 inche needed to get the rad in.
Are you feeling like this is a lot more than what you bargained for?? Welcome to the club!!!!!!
As I think about it you may be able to figure out if the drive shaft will work yourself.
The first step is to make sure the splineed shaft on the front matches the tailshaft on the tranny. There are lots of people on this BB who can tell you, but you can also just crawl under the truck and see if it slips in and if the oil seal fits.
If it does, take the shaft out and look at the splined part. Can you see where it turns from shiny to dull on the outside? That's where the oil seal rubbed on the original setup. Measure from this shiny/dull transition on the shaft back to the center of the fixed leg of the rear u-joint spider. If this measurement is within a half inch or so of the distance from the back of the tranny oil seal to the saddle on your differential it should work.
While you're fiddling around with the driveshaft, keep in mind that the angles of the tranny tailshaft and the rear pinion need to be pretty close to parallel. If not the drivetrain will shake around. So, if you get it all put together and it shakes on acceleration or slowing you may need to check the angles. Adjusting these angles is not a big deal. as you can get shims and wedges to fit under the leaf-spring mounts.
Hope this helps!!
[ November 24, 2002: Message edited by: bluesman123 ]</p>
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