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88' 350 SBC Timing. HOW? help!!!

2K views 5 replies 4 participants last post by  slider 
#1 ·
1966 impala w/ a 88' 350 SBC

everything is installed but i just need to do the "timing" this is my 1st time taking out an engine and replacing it.

the engine starts but dies shortly after a few secs. (that was the fist time it started)

last person who came over my house simply said to let him know when i hook up my started (one taht i replaced) and then he will come to do the timing (he said that was the LAST thing that needed to be done). well, this person is not coming because went away on a 2 week vacation.

i would like to take care of this. can anyone help me???

thank you so mUCH
:pimp: :pimp:
 
#3 ·
FOUND THIS POST:
"whatup everyone.

i just put a new 350 stock motor into my 65 c-10 stepside, along with swapping the Powerglide for a used turbo 350 tranny (and new brand new driveline). got a little problem.

i've got it started up and gassed it a few times, but i haven't done the 20 min cam break-in yet. for a few days prior to today, i had a problem aligning the distributor and wires correctly, where the engine would backfire and just be pissed off in general right after i started it. so i didn't want to try to full-throttle it just to keep it alive so the cam could break in. the motor just didn't wanna stay alive.

i put in a spacer between the starter and the block because it the gears didn't retract back into the starter after every start. i thought if it was misaligned w/ the flexplate, the starter gear might stay stuck against it (as it was), and not letting the engine run by having too much friction against the starter. after i put in the spacer, the starter retracted everytime. but the carb still backfired a whole lot and engine was still pretty pissed off.

however i found my distributor was also misaligned, then i found TDC and reset the wires and timing (without a timing gun, just by eyeballing the installation of the distributor cap) and now the engine seems to run much better. as of a few minutes ago, i got running for about 10 seconds to where if i kept on the gas a little, around 2000-2500 rpm (estimate), it sounded pretty good. however there is a **slight** lump in the exhaust note. nothing that sounds like a nightmare, just a tiny blip in the exhaust howl. i'm not sure if this normal for a stock 350 cam lope or what. maybe just me being paranoid about getting to sound too perfect.

the main problem a BUNCH of smoke comes up and out from the right below the stock headers, right where it connects into the two single pipes that go back to the exhaust cans (2.25" Flowmasters, single pipes). the carb didn't seem to backfire during the last startup.

is this a normal thing to happen? is the exhaust gaskets just burning off a little dirt? or is this not good? the engine came out of the crate painted black, is this just the paint burning thru the exhaust as it settles? maybe the timing is off?

the tranny fluid is filled over the FULL MARK somewhat... because of this, could the manifold vacuum be sucking extra tranny fluid thru the carb & intake to the chambers then thru the headers causing the smoke? i don't see fluid getting puked from the tranny disstick onto the headers on the outside...."

what he says it's happening to me

the only difference is that my car's engine starts but in order to keep it running i would have to step on the gas maybe alittle more than 2000 rpm and i'm afraid to fuk things up.

also, the only timing that has been done is the distributor cap etc etc...but no gunw/ a light or non of that 4 degree, 16 degree stuff that i dont understand...so pretty much

i turn the key..i hear a big noise..it runs but if i let go of the gas pedal it dies :(

help me :)
 
#5 ·
I got a little lost in some of your remarks, but it sounds like the timing may still be off. You'll need a timing light. If you can get someone to start and keep it running, set the timing as best you can with the light. You can't do it a 2,000rpm. Let it down to as near idle as you can.
As for smoke, I always expect some smoke because of grease/oil in places where greasy fingers/spills have occurred during the install. It should burn off after you get it warmed.
You said something about manifold vacuum sucking trans oil out. I don't think this would happen unless your modulator is belly-up. If it was ok before the new engine, it should still be ok.
 
#6 ·
OK. The trans is not likely to be puking fluid on a pipe. MI2600 has it, there is just something on a pipe from the work you've done. Timing the car without using a light takes a little crawling around. You've set this by finding top dead center and then aligning the rotor and the number one post in the cap. Usually this will leave you retarded some. Try advancing the distributor a wee bit at a time. You want to twist the housing the OPPOSITE way the rotor turns. Not much at all or the car will start spitting through the carb at you. If that happens, go back a little.

Once the car will start and run you can move the distributor some until it sounds happy enough to do the cam breakin.

Most often the car not idling isn't the timing at all, just a vacuum leak where a hose was left off or maybe the wrong gasket under the carb. Check your intake manifold mounting bolts and look around for a tube looking thing without a hose.

Have fun. This is what makes the driving worth while........
 
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