88 AOD tranny problems - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Transmission - Rearend
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2003, 04:23 PM
New Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Turlock, CA
Posts: 12
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Post 88 AOD tranny problems

I'm new to this forum and I've read through some of the posts concerning the AOD tranny. I've seen many people have the same upshifting problem I'm having. Here's my setup.

I have a newly rebuild AOD tranny with a 302 in my '73 Bronco. I'm using the Lokar TV cable. I installed the cable and trailered the Bronco to a local tranny shop (recommended by a friend of mine). They hooked up the pressure gauge to the TV pressure port and he adjusted the cable to the correct PSI. We then took it for a drive and noticed that it wouldn't shift out of the gear you started in. For example - you start in 1st you stay in first, you start in 2nd you stay in second or you start in D you stay in 1st. So when we get back to the shop we look at the gauge and the PSI is up to 30PSI at idle in Neutral (if you put the adjusting block on the TV cable at the carb the gauge would read 90PSI).

The tranny guys there said it was probably a stuck governor. But I spoke with Baumann Engineering and they said it is a stuck valve in the valve body. The tranny sat for almost a year after the rebuild prior to me getting the Bronco running again. They (Baumann) suggested that this could likely be the reason this happended.

I bought some LubeGaurd (supposed to free sticking valves) but I haven't had a chance to try it out (need to drain some fluid first to make room for the lubegaurd). Getting the the governor would be a pain because I have to remove my transfer case to get to the rear of the tranny. I have no idea if my rebuild included a new valve body. I can't seem to get in touch with the yo-ho that rebuilt my tranny.

I found a flowchart that talks about this tranny issues and it lists both the governor and valve body as possible issues. <a href="http://www.jasperengines.com/flowtran.pdf" target="_blank">http://www.jasperengines.com/flowtran.pdf</a>

I'm not sure what to do. I don't want to spend a lot of time to remove my tcase to get to the governor if I need to be working with the valve body. It seems to me that the TV valve is stuck causing the high TV pressure. But that's just me and I don't know much about trannies.

Thanks for reading this book.

Ryan

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2003, 04:27 PM
5.0Towncar's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 533
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Post

Try the Lubeguard stuff or whatever anyone else suggests. I have put iver 2600 bucks into my AOD(2 rebuilds in 3 years) The first rebuild was horible but the second one I got is pretty strong. Try simple troubleshooting stuff before yanking out parts.Steve
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2003, 05:02 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: north florida
Age: 72
Posts: 220
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Post

I have had trouble with both valve body and gov. cured most by just driving and shift manualy until trany starts working on its on, just dont force any shift let trany shift on its on, if you know your taking off in second dont try to force the engine to pull the truck like it was in first.add the adative and drive on a less travled road or stree tbe start and stop can get crazy in traffic good luck.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2003, 06:25 PM
mustang66maniac's Avatar
Ford Freak
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Rockville, MD
Age: 30
Posts: 676
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Post

I bet you its the stuck TV piston in the valve body. I don't know if you read the thread about my AOD, but it turns out that was the whole problem. One of the plungers in the TV part of the valve body would get stuck. When in neutral at idle, it would be at 0 at first but then when you give it gas/pull the cable, it would shoot up to 90 and then stay there no matter what. What i did was i went to pic-n-pull and got an 89 valve body. 88 and 89s are a bit different but it will still work in your tranny. Ford upgraded the valve body i think 24 times between 1982 and 1993. Basically, the later the valve body, the better it'll work.

I think if i were you, i would either get a manual that has detailed pictures of all of the plunger/spring assemblies in the valve body, then take them all out of the TV portion of them, clean them with carb cleaner or brake cleaner, and lube it up with vaseline and put it back together. OR you can just pick up a later model valve body.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2003, 09:57 PM
New Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Turlock, CA
Posts: 12
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Post

Thanks for the info guys.

I do have a good manual from ATRA that has all the info you need to tear this tranny apart and put it back together. I'll try the additive first and then work with the valve body.

I'm sorry to hear others have had this same issue but at the same time I'm glad that you guys can share your experience to help me out. Thanks again. I'll keep everyone posted on the results.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2003, 10:54 PM
aka Duke of URL
 
Last wiki edit: Finding vacuum leaks Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Rockville, MD
Posts: 4,821
Wiki Edits: 1

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Arrow

AOD Pressure Regulator Boost Valve Kit

This high quality valve and sleeve, manufactured by Sonnax, cures many line pressure related problems in the AOD transmission. Sticking or worn boost valves are a leading cause of failures and shift complaints with the AOD transmission. Over time, the steel valve will wear into the aluminum sleeve, causing the valve to stick and leak. Since the boost valve is responsible for increasing line pressure to match engine torque, it is obvious that the condition and calibration of this valve are even more critical in performance applications.

This "better than new" replacement sleeve is manufactured from wear-resistant Deltalloy 4032 and is sealed to the bore with O-rings, unlike the original equipment sleeve. We recommend replacement of this valve during the installation of our valve body kit, or especially in a high mileage transmission or during an overhaul where contaminants will have accelerated the wear of the original valve even further.

Catalog Number: BV-AOD



Baumann Engineering-[/b]</a>

<a href="http://www.tciauto.com/instructions/431000_inst.htm]-AOD TV Cable Adjustment-
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 02-12-2003, 05:28 PM
New Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Turlock, CA
Posts: 12
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Post

Well I tried the LubeGaurd and I don't think it's going to do anything. I put about 1.5 miles on it and my pressure is still reading high - about 75PSI at idle in Neutral.

Should I put more miles on it? I would think at this high of TV pressure it would be like having your TV cable way out of adjustment so driving it like that would be a bad idea.

I think I'm just going to pull the valve body and clean it out and put it back in. Then I'll give it a try again.

[ February 12, 2003: Message edited by: rflud ]</p>
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 02-12-2003, 07:59 PM
mustang66maniac's Avatar
Ford Freak
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Rockville, MD
Age: 30
Posts: 676
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Post

yeah dont drive it, if you do youll be doing more harm than good
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 02-12-2003, 11:44 PM
New Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Turlock, CA
Posts: 12
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Post

Well, I only have 3 1/2 mile on it now so I think I'm still ok. I'm just going to pull the whole thing and take it to the shop. I don't want to deal with it. No telling if I'll get it riht the first time or not and I really don't want to ket messing with it.

It's been two years since I have really driving this thing and I'm sick of it sitting in the garage. It's time to start driving it!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 02-17-2003, 05:53 PM
New Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Turlock, CA
Posts: 12
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Post

Here's and update

This is just me venting -

I bought an AOD tranny from a transmission shop here in town back in Nov 2001. I installed it into my chassis and there it sat while I finished other things - body, wiring, etc. I finally got the EB ready for a test drive in late Jan 2003. The tranny wouldn't shift out of first. I took it to a tranny shop (a different one than the guy who built it - you'll see why soon). They did some checking and there was clearly a problem. At this point I have 1.5 miles on it.

So I try to contact the guy who built it and I can't get in touch with him. My messages go unanswered, my visits to his shop unsuccessful. He is now where to be found. But I just spoke to him a few weeks earlier and his answering machine is still picking up the phone calls so I assume he is still in the area.

So I decide to pull the tranny and take it to the shop that a friend of mine knowns (he goes to church with the owner). They pull it apart and Mike (the tranny guy) walks me from one end of the work bench to the other all the while showing me what is wrong with this tranny. Worn out clutch drum, sun gears, etc. Hardly anything was new in this tranny.

So I'm basically screwed. I can't get with the original builder and from what I've now heard he is known for this and wouldn't stand behind his work anyway. I will be having this new shop fix everything. Probably going to cost me $1000-1500 to get it all straightened out. Then I still have to install it. I am not happy at this point.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Transmission - Rearend posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:27 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.