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Old 10-17-2007, 02:29 PM
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89 Chevy PU rear brakes.

I was at my buddy Spencer's house today, helping him do the brakes on his 4wd 89ish chevy. Anyway, to make a long story not so long, here is the problem.

In the past one of the wheel cylinders on the rear drums was constantly leaking and the reservoir would run dry. Well, I don't know how long it was like that, but lets just say for a year, maybe more or maybe less, he was just stopping on the front brakes. We put in the new wheel cylinder, and proceed to bleed it... nothing. We try the other rear wheel, nothing, the lines that go to the back are bone dry.

So, now, lets move to under the hood, there is plenty of fluid in the reservoir, but no pedal pressure, no fluid in the lines, nothing. Kind of a weird setup, it has a regular looking master cylinder, but if you watch the lines going out of it, it goes to what appears to be a combination or proportioning valve. And the rear brake line goes from the valve to yet another master cylinder looking thing that does not have a reservoir on it, but does have a bleeder. We try to bleed it at that point, and nothing. On the combination valve there is also a rubber cap that is covering what looks like some sort of shrader valve, one on each side (front and back). If you hold your fingers over the valves when we press the brakes, you can feel the pin in the valve poke out, but only for the front side, the rear does nothing.

What do you think is bad here, the combo valve or the master cylinder? So far, our next plan of action is to bust loose the line that goes to the valve and see if the master cylinder is pumping fluid out.

Has anybody seen anything like this before?

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Old 10-17-2007, 11:46 PM
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I've had hard times bleeding rear brakes before after they were dry. Power vacuum bleeding (or some other type of power bleeding) would most likely get it bled real quick. Doing it manually I bled the line at each joint till I had fluid there and then moved on down the line. I.E. Going into the combo. valve, out of the combo. valve, flex line at the frame, and then at the wheel. It took a while but eventually got it all bled.
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Old 10-18-2007, 07:01 AM
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Since the master cyl has been run completely dry...I recommend that you remove the lines from the master cyl and bleed the master just as if you were bench bleeding it....then hook your lines back up and bleed your wheel cyls.
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Old 10-18-2007, 07:41 AM
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There is a pic in the GM factory service manual that shows a tool to hold the pin in, when bleeding the brakes. It is just a L shaped deal that fits onto one of the mounting bolts. This is an older manual showing only one of those rubber boots & pin.

I think your safety valve is blocking off the rear line as you try to bleed.
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Old 10-18-2007, 09:35 AM
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I'll get a hold of him so we can bench bleed the master cylinder, and after that do the pin deal. Keep the ideas coming guys! Thanks.
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