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Old 03-27-2006, 08:55 PM
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89 dodge dakota problem

hey there guys and gals i have a question that maybe someone can help me with i have an 89 dodge dakota with a 3.9 v6 and it has started to die on me when it is cold what happens is you can run it for like 5 or 10 minutes then it will just die if your going down the road it will cut out like it is running out of gas but if it is sitting still it just dies like you shut the key off and it only does this of a morning then its fine the rest of the day i checked the codes and it showed a code 11 which was something about no rpm signal getting to the computer after the battery has been changed but i have not changed it in a long time i was told it could be the computer or the pick up in the dist. or the coil but i just dont know and i cant figure out why it only does it first thing in the morning and no more the rest of the day so does anyone have any advise thanks for any help,,,,,,,and also when this happens sometimes it will start right back up and die if you give it alot of gas and then sometimes it takes a few minutes before it starts back up

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Old 03-28-2006, 12:38 AM
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I have found 2 problems with the Dodges. 1st. How old is the battery, and how clean are those connections. Clean those battery connections first, and while your at it if the battery is more than 5 years old, have it tested with a carbon pile load tester, and one of the new battery testers that does a milli amp test (it tests the Hertz frequency of the battery) Snap-on Tools and Mac Tools. Chrysler vehicles are extremely sensitive to voltage spikes in the charging system affecting the running of the engine when !st started. 2nd make sure that the throttle body plates and idle air controller pintle vale are clean...being that this system is "shower head throttle body" the plates will probably be clean, but the idle air motor (controller) pintle valve will probably be dirty. The correct way to clean it is to remove it from the throttle body (either 2 screws or it unscrews from the main body, I can't remember which way on the older vehicles) (2 screws are usually Torx, or it's a 1 inch box or open end wrench to remove)???? Clean the pointy end (pintle) and don't forget to clean the passage way inside the hole that you pulled the IAC valve out. I usually use Carb Medic from Gunk...on a cloth rag and put your finger in there and clean it out...use a good synthetic glove...that stuff is VERY strong...don't spray lots down inside directly from the spray can...that can screw up and overheat your catalytic converter...expensive!!!!! Hope that helps you a little? Good luck
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Old 03-28-2006, 07:48 AM
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hey there thanks for the advise i changed the battery about 8 monthes ago but i do know that the cables and ends need replaced which i was gonna try to do this weekend. and i will clean that iac too and see what happens. once again thanks for the help ill let you know if this fixes it
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Old 03-28-2006, 08:39 PM
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ok i really feel stupid asking this but how do i tell which one is the idle air motor(controler) i looked today and there was i think 4 or 5 censors on the throttle body
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Old 03-28-2006, 09:40 PM
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The location of the IAC motor (Controller) is usually, but not always, at the rear of the throttle body closest to the distributor, it "should" have about 4 or 5 wires on a removable clip and at a 90 degree angle to the Controller...like I said earlier it's been a while since I've seen one, the latter ones 92 and newer are definitely at the rear...I'll try and research it for more accuracy for you...also, I forgot to mention earlier...there will be a "relearn" for the computer...again disconnecting the "clean" battery terminals will assist in doing this "relearn". Take the vehicle down the street and you should drive aprox 2 miles at a constant speed nothing faster than 40 - 50 mph...It's a little easier if you had a snap-on scanner or similar to get the read the readings coming from the computer of the vehicle...this is probably why not many people have responded to this question...the vehicle will start and stall as it did before you did this clean up...this is okay...let the vehicle warm up to full operating temp 195 degrees...and take the vehicle sensibly down the road...find an appropriate road...not in school zones etc...and do aprox 2 miles of distance at a constant speed of 40 mph or 50 mph...nothing faster is necessary...we usually use a vehicle chassis dyno to do this in a shop...not necessary to drive crazy on the road, trying to get the computer to "relearn"...but it can be done the way I've told you provided you are careful on the road...police don't like excuses like "the computer has to "relearn" "!...It won't wash!!! hehehe! By the way...the other spot would be on an angle on the pass side rear of the throttle body...for the alternate location of the IAC valve with the same amount of wires...maybe someone else could help me out or verify the location...Cheers!
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Old 03-29-2006, 12:07 AM
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Here's a pic. HTH
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Old 03-29-2006, 03:06 AM
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I had the same problem on my 1990 but was told by the dealer I need to buy a new carb. it was like 250.00 bucks.

Craig
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Old 03-29-2006, 09:23 AM
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hey thanks for all the help and that pic was great i thought that was it but just wanted to be sure. hopefully this weekend if it doesnt rain here in arkansas i will be able to tinker with this and see what happens and let you know thanks again for all the help .........i just want to say also thanks for this site it has help me out many times
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Old 03-29-2006, 09:29 PM
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Thanks for posting the pic...the part "Idle Air Control" that I mentioned earlier, is not shown in this picture. The "Idle Speed Control" is shown in this picture on the driver's side...this is the front of the throttle body, and I was referring to the rear of the body near the distributor...The Idle Speed control actually moves the throttle blades open and closed a small amount when decelerating for the emissions control...if you do not have an Idle Air Control valve at the rear of the carb and only the Idle Speed Control, then, only clean the throttle bore if it's carboned up in the throats of the two bores, beneath the butterfly plates and if the plates are black and sooty looking on the bottom side of the plates...they usually stay clean because of the washing of the fuel...I hope I'm not confusing you...and again thanks to sbchevfreak for posting the picture...it sure helped...Cheers!
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Old 03-30-2006, 12:10 AM
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No prob, it took me a while to figure out how to get the pic from the source to here. (Not too computer savvy). I guess I should have explained the pic a bit besides just posting it. If I remember correctly, Dodges of that era only had the ISC, on the newer TBI & PFI they added the more common "pintle" IAC.
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Old 04-04-2006, 09:54 PM
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hey there just an update on this, i didnt get to work on it this weekend but it has warmed up outside of a morning and since it has been warmer in the morning it has not messed up at all but then last night it got like 35 or so and it messed up again this morning so i guess it only happens when it is below like 45 or 50 in the morning
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Old 04-10-2006, 07:49 AM
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ok guys and gals i finally got to work on this thing this weekend i changed the fuel filter,air filter,dist. cap,rotor,plugs,wires,pick up inside the dist,and i thought my battery cables were bad but they were just nasty at the cables ends so i changed them too, so far so good the truck runs better than it has since i got it a year ago. thanks for all the help with this and hopefully its fixed but if not ill check some of the other things you guys told me and let you know what happens thanks once again
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