89 Ranger Idle Problem
Hello folks, first time here, hope you guys can help where others haven't been able.
I have an 89 Ranger, 2.3L, 5 speed. It has a high idle problem. I've taken the IAC off and cleaned it out. Changed the plugs, the ign. coils are good. Changed the fuel filter and pump (pump was bad). First off, when i start the truck in the cold weather, it runs really rough, takes a while to heat up, and sputters alot and emits alot of smoke out the exhaust, till it's warmed up then all goes away. But it will also idle at a high rate, no tach so don't know how high for sure. If i let it warm up for a bit, the idle will drop, but not down to normal rpms, probablly around 1k or so, maybe just a little bit more, but at least that high. when i hit the gas and take it off again, the idle stays elevated and then drops down again after about 4-5 secs. i know the idle is factory set on these trucks so i can't adjust it, and I get a CEL light on sometimes, but usually after i've been driving for about 10-12 miles, and none of the local auto parts stores can check this system, it's OBDI adn they all check OBD II. Please help with some suggestions, inspection station won't inspect me till the idle is lowered.
It could be a lot of things, IMHO.
I'd start with having that/those code(s) checked.
Running rich ... Oygen sensor? Temperature Sensor? Injectors need cleaning?
Hi idle speed is not just simply "factory set" ... Idle speed control relies on inputs from various sensors, which are then interpreted by the ECM and output to the IAC and injectors which control the amount of fuel and air supplied to the engine at idle.
Almost any shop will check codes for a nominal charge (~$25.00?) and it will probably save you money versus throwing parts at it until it runs right.
Fortunately or unfortunately ... the days of tackling this problem in the driveway with a point-file and a flat-blade screwdriver are over. :(
One other "DIY" thing you might try is to clean up the EGR valve with some carb and combustion chamber cleaner. If it's sticking, it will also allow more air into the system ... resulting in a high idle.
Well I bought a OBD1 code reader for my truck and got alot of codes.
KOEO - 11
Continuous memory - 33 41 63 95
KOER - 21 22 42 13 77 52
Now, I don't have power steering in this truck, so don't know why i got code 52.
And would code 77 mean i have to do the KOER test over again?
So now where to start for the idle problem?
could be the IAC passageway, it won't be an O2 sensor, because it would be open loop until warm. temp sensor might be reading warm tho, which could cause that.
Code 33.....EGR did not open/ respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittently
Code 41......System lean
Code 63......Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) signal too low
Code 95......(Could be ANY/Some or All of these...)
(A) (Mem) Possible bad fuel pump ground or open between fuel pump and pin 8 at PCM (Fuel Pump Monitor signal)
(B) AIR not Diverting (AIRD)
(C) Fuel pump: open, bad ground or always on
Code 21....Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor out of range
Code 22....MAP (vacuum) or BARO signal out of range
Code 42....System was rich for 15 seconds or more (no HO2S switching)
Code 13....Idle Speed Control motor or Air Bypass not controlling idle properly (generally idle too high)
Code 52...((Did you turn wheel during test ?)) Power Steering Pressure Switch/circuit open.
Code 77....Goose test....System did not receive "goose" test
Basically you're suppose to clear the memory first if you done ANY mods on any sensor. (IAC is a sensor) Reboot means to disconnect the battery neg post for 30 min, (it will run like crap at first until the computer has relearned again) Drive it normally for 10 miles (stop n go as you normally would ...easy does it on the lead foot) THEN RETEST The KOEO and KOER. Then this would be your True test code results.
I'll disconnect the battery, clear the codes and drive to work tomorrow and test when i get home again, and i'll repost any codes i get after that, ty for the advice.
Alright, I reset the codes and ran the truck again, now i'm getting codes:
KOEO - 11
CM - 33 41
KOER - 12 13 42 77 52
I've already cleaned the IAC, did the best i could do with it, but it was still black inside, just not nearly as bad.
I would take off the EGR and replace or clean it. You'll have to get a gasket for it as it gets very hot, you cannot make one and expect it to leak air. You want everything in that area to be air tight. Be sure to redo the booting process as well. Another area to look into would be the EGR sensor, loose connection, possible leaking hoses is another situation you have to carefully examine. The EGR isn't a cheap replaceable part, although the sensor isn't too bad in relation to price, getting cheap parts will only come back and replacement in warrenty is best advised. The EGR has a number on the part, be sure to get the same number as different EGR's will interchange..this is an important fact.
An code 11 is a pass on the KOEO test.
A code 77 is nothing to worry about, you just didn't goose to gas before that test was performed.
The code 13 is important, replace the IAC sensor motor, reboot and do the 10 mile test. 30 min is the min for the time to reboot the computer. When I do it, after any replacements of parts that is engine related (sensors or such)
I'll do the 10 mile road test (The engine will run like crap the first time you start it, as it has to relearn everything again for the ECM) This sensor controls your idle. If its bad, you are not going to be able to control your idle as its not adjustable on a EFI engine...even tho some EFI engines has a screw for it. Code 41 could be a part of the IAC sensor being bad. Worry about this code after replacement. Luck has nothing to do with replaceing parts, check your work, take your time...and do it right. Follow the code breakdown as the first code you get will be the one you should pay attention to first.....
the preferred way of clearing OBD-I memory codes is to disconnect the code reader while its gathering(displaying) codes. i have found that disconnecting the battery only worksfor clearing codes if you leave it disconnected for about 5 days.
first, i would replace the ECT.
2nd, clean/reclean all EGR ports and passages and verify the EGR valve is operational.
3rd, clean the MAF.
then recheck codes.
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