9" Ford Guru's, identify please! - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Transmission - Rearend
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 02-09-2008, 01:01 PM
S10xGN's Avatar
Gotta love a turbo!
 

Last journal entry: Body on Frame today.
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Port Neches, TX
Age: 60
Posts: 1,558
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 49 Times in 47 Posts
9" Ford Guru's, identify please!

Hi Guys!

I stumbled across a 9" rear axle from a truck for a very small price hoping it was a 31 spline, but it's only a 28 spline unit.

Other than that, I cannot identify much else about it. I've been to all the 9" sites and e-mailed "kevinstang" at his site but haven't heard back yet. Here's what I sent him:

Quote:
I got a deal on an axle the other day, but it's an oddball. The housing is a truck (I think) that has the early style large brg ends, width of 56 3/8" from brg flange to brg flange. It has 28 spline axles, and both axles are 29 7/8" long. Does not have a tag, but appears that it has never been apart with the exception of axle seals.

The case number is C7AW-G. Other markings on the outside of the case are: DIF, 65, and (?) 85. The pinion support shows numbers: C5AW, 4668A, 57, DIF, and 9D23.

The center section seems to be a locker of some type. It has a cast finish on the ring gear side, but 5/8" head recessed bolts. It has one main pin shaft plus the 2 smaller side pin shafts, recessed up underneath the ring gear. Around (and inside) the ring gear bolts are spaced (4) large 0.900 diameter holes which you can see a (circular) parting line where 2 cylindrical objects are mated up. Numbers from the
case are: FOMOCO, and (?) 4268. It also has 2 rollpins showing from the outside.

Thanks for the help!

Russ Selkirk
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	100_0051s.jpg
Views:	530
Size:	165.2 KB
ID:	27736   Click image for larger version

Name:	100_0053s.jpg
Views:	561
Size:	188.9 KB
ID:	27737   Click image for larger version

Name:	100_0054s.jpg
Views:	540
Size:	190.5 KB
ID:	27738   Click image for larger version

Name:	100_0059s.jpg
Views:	630
Size:	211.6 KB
ID:	27739  
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 02-09-2008, 05:44 PM
pmeisel's Avatar
Glad the Jeep is on the road
 
Last wiki edit: How to identify a Ford V8
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Meridian MS & Vermilion Ohio
Age: 57
Posts: 814
Wiki Edits: 8

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Don't have a reference handy, but familiarity with old Ford part numbers tell me:

The "C7" and "C5" prefixes are what you would expect on a late 60s vintage 9 inch...

the two part numbers beginning with "4" are probably the base part numbers for that particular part

I didn't see anything that looked like a ratio or a plant build code in that sequence, except maybe the 9D23, that may have been a build code back in the 60s, but by my time (late 70s--80s--90s) the build codes though similar in structure did not match that.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2008, 06:41 AM
aka Duke of URL
 
Last wiki edit: Finding vacuum leaks Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Rockville, MD
Posts: 4,821
Wiki Edits: 1

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
The case number is C7AW-G. Other markings on the outside of the case are: DIF, 65, and (?) 85. The pinion support shows numbers: C5AW, 4668A, 57, DIF, and 9D23.
C5AW 4668-A is the Casting I.D. No of the pinion support. DIF is Dearborn Iron Foundry and 9D23 is the Casting Date Code (pinion support).

To identify the rear (exact ratio), there are stampings on the RG and PG which will require disassembly to see. Without the Assembly I.D. Tag No., you may never know what the assembly is out of.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2008, 06:58 AM
woodz428's Avatar
Troll Hunter
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Philo,Il
Posts: 2,702
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
As greasy as the rearend looks, there should have been a tag under one of the nuts that holds the carrier. That has all the info regarding WHAT and other HOW.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2008, 07:22 AM
powerrodsmike's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Make a fiberglass fan shroud
Last journal entry: Next.. ..Bagging the king B (barge)
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: gilroy, california
Age: 53
Posts: 4,108
Wiki Edits: 161

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
I usually count teeth to find the ratio...it looks like low-mid 3's from the picture. (thin ring gear)

I would think that the 60.75" hub to hub width (29 7/8" x 2 plus 1" or so for the center pin) puts it in the range of a mid size car. Or maybe an f100.( I can't find a hub to hub measurement for one of those...
The wheel bolt pattern can tell a story too, 5 on 4.5 = car, 5 on 5"= bigger car, 5 on 5.5"= truck or van.

The shock mounts look like a truck. ( I know ..you knew that)

Here is a page from the KB with some measurements. It isn't a perfect page, but none of them are.

http://dfwmotorsport.com/Fairlane/9inchrearends.htm

And for those who don't already have the kevinstang page...
http://www.kevinstang.com/Ninecase.htm


If it fits, use it...

Later, mikey
__________________
my signature lines...not really directed at anyone in particular..

BE different....ACT normal.

No one is completely useless..They can always be used as a bad example

Last edited by powerrodsmike; 02-10-2008 at 07:31 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2008, 07:33 AM
Deuce's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Choosing a trailer
Last journal entry: Jan 13 2013
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Deuceland USA
Age: 65
Posts: 5,657
Wiki Edits: 6

Thanks: 0
Thanked 9 Times in 9 Posts
I would GUESS a Ford pickup or Bronco. The spring pad mounts are on top of the housing. Cars, as a general rule, have them on the bottom. The width would also be in the correct range for a late 60's pickup. The center section could have been changed sometime in it's life. Most folks ( even Ford techs @ the dealership ) do not always reinstall the the code tags.



I even have a small collection of the tags ... about 50 or 60 of them.
__________________


"I won't be wronged . I won't be insulted, and I won't be laid a hand on. "






Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 02-11-2008, 01:52 PM
S10xGN's Avatar
Gotta love a turbo!
 

Last journal entry: Body on Frame today.
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Port Neches, TX
Age: 60
Posts: 1,558
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 49 Times in 47 Posts
The guy I got it from had pulled the tag. It came from a truck (year unknown) and is a 3.50 ratio (35 x 10) "Equalok" unit. I don't know when they quit making them, sometime in the mid to late 60's... I don't think the Equalok is worth much with today's better units, but it may show up on e-Bay soon. I'm haggling for a true locker (31 spline) from one of the NASCAR wholesalers right now. This case has the large side bearings (3.06) instead of the normal 2.89.

Russ
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 02-11-2008, 02:05 PM
streetrodderbn's Avatar
Certifiable Streetrodder
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: n.e. ohio
Posts: 369
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
The "equalock" was an early positive traction type clutch setup that utilizes a "belleville" spring to put pressure on the steels and clutches, the down side is that the "belleville" spring would weaken after time, and tended to wear the case and steel it was riding on. The spring was the diameter of the center ring carrier and less than 1/4 in. thick, and unfortunately,not being reproduced as far as I know. I have had a few of these rearends in street cars without problems, but doubt the effectiveness it would have under serious horsepower!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 02-12-2008, 08:14 AM
sharpe427's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 73
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
C7AW-G = 1967, Full size Ford, Drivetrain group. the 1st letter in Ford PN is decade (B= 1950; C=1960's; D=70's etc..) the 1st number is year in decade; C7=1967; D4=1974, etc.... The next letters are what car line (A=Full size Ford) and who designed it (W=Drivetrain Group) the last letter is a change or use code. Usually irrevelant. This part was designed for 1/2 ton pickups (G) and uses the larger axle bearings (3.063" dia.). Your pinion housing number C5AW 4668-A = 1965 Full size Ford from Drivetrain Group; Pinion support (p/n 4668) changed 1 time (A). The '9D23' is a casting code for quality control. Breaksdown as: 9=1969 D=April 23=23rd Day. So, I would guess that your diff housing is from a 1969/1970 full size, light duty Ford pickup. Usually truck parts have a 'T' code (ie; C7TE-??) but remember the 9" was originally designed for the full size Ford car line, so it carried the 'A' code. Post above is right about the spring perches being the give away for truck heritage. I hope this helps, because I obviously need to get out of the shop more often!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2008, 09:57 AM
S10xGN's Avatar
Gotta love a turbo!
 

Last journal entry: Body on Frame today.
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Port Neches, TX
Age: 60
Posts: 1,558
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 49 Times in 47 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by sharpe427
C7AW-G = 1967, Full size Ford, Drivetrain group. the 1st letter in Ford PN is decade (B= 1950; C=1960's; D=70's etc..) the 1st number is year in decade; C7=1967; D4=1974, etc.... The next letters are what car line (A=Full size Ford) and who designed it (W=Drivetrain Group) the last letter is a change or use code. Usually irrevelant. This part was designed for 1/2 ton pickups (G) and uses the larger axle bearings (3.063" dia.). Your pinion housing number C5AW 4668-A = 1965 Full size Ford from Drivetrain Group; Pinion support (p/n 4668) changed 1 time (A). The '9D23' is a casting code for quality control. Breaksdown as: 9=1969 D=April 23=23rd Day. So, I would guess that your diff housing is from a 1969/1970 full size, light duty Ford pickup. Usually truck parts have a 'T' code (ie; C7TE-??) but remember the 9" was originally designed for the full size Ford car line, so it carried the 'A' code. Post above is right about the spring perches being the give away for truck heritage. I hope this helps, because I obviously need to get out of the shop more often!
Great stuff, thanks! This is really good info, would you have a link to your "magic decoder"?

What's your take on the "equa-lok" posi unit, any good? The breakaway torque is pretty low so it prolly could use a rebuild (I've seen kits on E-Bay for it).

Thanks!

Russ
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2008, 06:06 PM
sharpe427's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 73
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I'm sorry, my 'secret decoder' is actually experience and a book of engineering numbers from the 60's that gives a lot of the basic part numbers (like 4668 being a pinion bearing cover). A lot of stuff is on the web, but a lot of it is wrong so find multiple searches and take your best shot! Once you mess with it for a time, it gets easy because the FoMoCo system is very simple and easy to remember.

The Equalok has a pretty good street rep, but doesn't seem to be favored too much on tracks. I think it would be all right as long as you don't intend to hammer it consistently from every stoplight. For constant HD use, I would recc'd a Detroit Locker.

Last edited by sharpe427; 02-13-2008 at 06:08 PM. Reason: Missed question--equalok
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 02-20-2008, 01:35 PM
S10xGN's Avatar
Gotta love a turbo!
 

Last journal entry: Body on Frame today.
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Port Neches, TX
Age: 60
Posts: 1,558
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 49 Times in 47 Posts
Hey Sharpe!

Sharpe,

Need some more of your I.D. expertise. I bought a used NASCAR (ratchet) locker for my axle, so I got to break down the pumpkin today. For some reason, this center doesn't look like either an Equa-lok or a Traction-lok!

It's got to be a T-lok, the E-lok has 5 lug plates and the T-lok has 4, and this one has 4 lugs. The backside of the case is unmachined (like the open carriers), yet has 5/8" headed recessed bolts (like a T-lok). It also has 4 large through-holes that you can see the small half-moon clips through. The lugs are only on the steels, nothing on the frictions (5 of each). There appears to be no method of loading the plates that I can see, no springs, wave washers, etc. It is a 4 pinion unit. Reckon a T-lok rebuild kit will work?

Thanks!

Russ
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	100_0095.jpg
Views:	286
Size:	215.1 KB
ID:	28089   Click image for larger version

Name:	100_0096.jpg
Views:	229
Size:	288.2 KB
ID:	28090   Click image for larger version

Name:	100_0097.jpg
Views:	256
Size:	255.2 KB
ID:	28091  
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 02-20-2008, 04:17 PM
sharpe427's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 73
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Look for 4 small springs and pins (about the diameter of an ink pen), they are the loading springs on a traction lock. It is odd though, because the TL should have 4 fiber and 5 steel plates and a machined case!
The EquaLok also had 5/8" headed recessed bolts with the 'as cast'
case, with 3 fiber and 4 steels and a belvedere spring (the wavy one). The Equalok plates will have the 5 'fingers' on the steels.
Both types came with 2 and 4 spider varieties.

Finally; I think you have a EquaLok because of the unmachined case. I think what the previous owner did was eliminate the belvedere spring and replaced it with a stack of fiber/steel to make the diff more like a Detroit Locker. Again, look for the small pins and springs...that is the way to id a TractionLok. I did a surf to try to boost a pic of the pins (no luck) but did come across a site that may help:
www.maliburacing.com
look under the 'Tech' banner, and scroll down to 'Ford 9" '
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 02-21-2008, 05:00 AM
S10xGN's Avatar
Gotta love a turbo!
 

Last journal entry: Body on Frame today.
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Port Neches, TX
Age: 60
Posts: 1,558
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 49 Times in 47 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by sharpe427
Finally; I think you have a EquaLok...
I thought the E-lok's had 5 lug plates and the T-lok's had 4 lugs? This thing has the 4 lug plates. I may have been looking at part #18 as a steel and counting 5 instead of 4. And I think I found the springs, I just haven't gotten into that side of the unit yet. They are inside the pinion block...

Russ
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	traclockblowup_small.gif
Views:	546
Size:	14.2 KB
ID:	28107  
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 02-21-2008, 06:29 AM
sharpe427's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 73
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
If you find the little springs that would settle it as a TLoc, but I have never seen one with a non-machined case...but there is a first for everything!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Transmission - Rearend posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Wanna Talk Cars "Fords" 66Falcon Hotrodders' Lounge 17 10-01-2005 05:29 AM
Ford 9" case storage? 11echo Transmission - Rearend 1 02-11-2004 12:55 PM
Converting Jag rear end to Ford 9" Jag Daddy Transmission - Rearend 5 12-25-2003 02:47 PM
Ford 9" Rear End Narrowing nightrain_rod Transmission - Rearend 3 11-30-2003 11:50 AM
9" ford rearend 37 ford melbishop Transmission - Rearend 3 12-09-2001 09:15 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:38 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.