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Old 02-20-2012, 10:25 PM
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9 inch center chunk removal

hey guys I'm trying to remove the pumpkin in my 9 inch to replace it with an upgraded unit. I took the axles out and took the bolts loose, but it's seized on there pretty tight(1965 thunderbird seized) do you guys have any ideas as to how to get it loose without damaging the casing?

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Old 02-20-2012, 11:48 PM
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If it is still in the car jack up on the front by the driveshaft yoke slowly till it breaks loose.Then let it down and you should be able to finish getting it out with 2 large standard screw drivers or pry bars.It is really pretty hard to break it unless you beat on it with a BFH.Hope this helps.It is probably not rusted in place,somebody probably siliconed it in and that stuff adheres very well.
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Old 02-21-2012, 08:47 AM
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C4. Stand off to one side.
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Old 02-21-2012, 08:57 AM
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well I got it out the pic a part from a 65 thunderbird, and I took the whole thing home. So its not in the car anymore which complicates things a whole lot. I didn't beat on it with a sledge or anything but I'm tempted
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Old 02-21-2012, 09:03 AM
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You want to make sure any of the copper washers are removed (usually a small chisel will split them). Then use a THIN sharp chisel and tap it between the center section and housing first in one place then 180 degrees around until you have a gap lage engouh to get 2 pry bars/screwdrivers in. It can take a bit of time bit it will come apart.
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Old 02-21-2012, 10:19 AM
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I use an air hammer with a dull chisel.
Get on the case flange area but stay off the mating surface of the housing.
The vibration really seems to help break some of those units loose that have been together for 50 years.
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Old 02-21-2012, 11:09 AM
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I like to leave half of the nuts on, loosened and backed away from the center section by about 3/16" so it doesn't get cocked or bugger the studs up if it breaks loose suddenly. You might be able to pop it loose by wailing on it w/a rubber mallet- a big 'un. Don't hit the yoke, just the nose. Otherwise the advice already given is sound- especially to first remove the sealing washers.

You prolly already know, but the diff dope will stink to high heaven. Put down kitty litter or newspapers and a catch pan for it so you don't have a puddle soaking into where you're working.
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Old 02-21-2012, 05:32 PM
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To drain the fluid, drive the bottom stud into the housing using a soft drift and that will let the fluid drain out. Kinda slow with old gear oil in the winter but beats the giant spill.
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Old 02-21-2012, 06:52 PM
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When I did my '57 rear end, I ended up driving the studs into the housing (with nuts covering the ends of the threads) and a brass drift. When the studs break loose, remove the nuts and they will just drop inside. The stud are knurled and after a good clean up, can be pulled right back into place, again using some nuts and a few washers (they are 3/8-24 thread) Don't forget to pull the crush washers off as noted above. You'll need new ones anyhow.

And that gear oil - stinks
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Old 02-22-2012, 06:55 PM
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well since the rear end was out of the car, I put it on jack stands, removed all the brass washers and then used a scraper to break the gasket. Nothing too heavy duty so I didn't damage the gasket surface. It came off with a little coaxing but it finally gave. thx again for all the tips

Now I have to figure out where I can pick up a pumpkin with the 28 spline posi and 3.55 to 3.73 gears without breaking the bank.
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