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Old 05-05-2014, 02:34 PM
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93 rx7 door dent and crease question

Hi I just bought my car with little dings here and there but the worst dent is in the door so I bought some polyester finishing and blending putty which is from proline performance products and when I looked at tech sheet it is made from evercoat but from what I heard is it is a good product as it is a putty that requires a catalyst. Any ways my plan of action is to use a stud welder and use 80 grit sand paper to remove paint. Here is pic of door ding as well as putty please let me know if the putty I got is any good. In the pics I posted I put guide coat on dent and sanded to show the damage better. Please tell me how to approach the fix. Also when I got the putty do I use it as a glaze putty or body filler.
Thanks*


Here is the pics.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bwo...it?usp=sharing


https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bwo...it?usp=sharing


https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bwo...it?usp=sharing


https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bwo...it?usp=sharing

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Old 05-05-2014, 03:26 PM
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The links don't work, no photos.

Brian
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Old 05-05-2014, 04:15 PM
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Sorry here is the pics
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Old 05-05-2014, 07:36 PM
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Here is some more pics and I will get more up.
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Old 05-05-2014, 07:55 PM
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Here is some more pics keep in mind that the lowest dent is about the thickness of a penny.
Thanks
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Old 05-05-2014, 09:36 PM
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If the lowest point is 1/8" or less, you will likely not need to "pull" anything with the stud welder. However, you can still use it to your advantage in this manor: after sanding or grinding to bare metal, weld studs in the low places. Don't pull of the studs, but instead, hold them with vise grips, or the slide hammer to steady the panel. Using a pointed body hammer tap the highs in while applying outward pressure on the studs (in other words, don't use the slide hammer to jerk the low spots out or you will have a big ridge across teh door). The door skin will move pretty easy, so be careful until you get a feel for it. As you are knocking the high spots down, and applying pressure to the lows, the panel will begin to flatten out. Once you think you have it how you want it, you can grind off the studs and guide coat it, hit it lightly with 80 grit on a ling board in a "X" pattern to see what you have. If need be, weld on more studs and use the above procedure until you have it how you want it, then begin with the filler. I am not familiar with that particular glazing putty, but most 2 part glazes are decent products. I would recommend getting some regular filler to speed things along. The glaze/putty will not build very much at all compared to a filler such as rage or Z-grip. Once you get the area close, you can then use the glaze to feather everything in and get it in some primer. I hope my rambling was not confusing, but it is hard to explain metal working in a text format.

Kelly
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Old 05-05-2014, 09:50 PM
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Hi my plan is to use a stud puller t handle to pull on lows while I knock down the highs with body hammer but I was going to get the evercoat rage gold body filler and use my glazing putty on top of rage gold. The glaze putty I got said that it is made from evercoat according to the tech sheet which also says evercoat made the glazing putty for proline performance products. But when I do apply the rage gold do I apply it to bare metal that is roughed up with 80 grit sand paper or do I put down epoxy primer and sand it with 80 grit then apply rage gold.
Thanks
Richard
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Old 05-05-2014, 09:57 PM
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Once you get the metal work done, get everything to 80 grit and feather the edges into the paint. Apply 2 coats of epoxy and let it cure (over night for the SPI that I use, but check your tech sheet for your particular primer), then you can apply the filler over the epoxy (again check your tech sheet, the SPI doesn't have to be sanded for the first several days, but some may recommend sanding prior to filler). Once you get the filler work finished, you can use the glaze if needed. Once you are happy with the repair and ready for primer, you can apply 2 more coats of epoxy, OR go straight to a 2K urethane build primer if needed ( I prefer epoxy under and over the filler). When you have the primer blocked and are happy with everything, you can spray a sealer coat and get it in color.



Kelly
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Old 05-05-2014, 10:43 PM
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If you have access behind the door I'd do some light stud pulls and stretch it a little with a dolly on the back side and plastic flat mallet on top. At work I'd just stud pull it and mud it if it were my car I'd take that door panel off and check to see if I could get a dolly back there. If it stretches I'd just shrink disk it. For these newer cars if you have a good stud gun you can just tap the trigger and it will twist right off after pulling.
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Old 05-05-2014, 11:49 PM
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Hi I was going to try to use a dolly but not a lot of room and there is a structural bar behind door for collision which makes it even harder so I am going to use a stud gun to the best of my advantages and finish up with body filler and glaze putty but I appreciate the info.
Thanks
Richard
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Old 05-06-2014, 06:03 AM
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It looks to me like someone already pulled it and this is what is left....keep in mind that the reinforcement may also be bent and the skin is glued to it so the two pieces will have to be separated before you can do any pulling. its ez enough to do with a hack saw blade just slip it in between and cut. once the two are seperated you can pull the skin. Dont forget to glue it back up when your done...In this case I'd use the filler direct to the metal and not use epoxy at all...but its up to you ,using epoxy wont hurt ,its just a bit of overkill. imo.
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Old 05-06-2014, 09:12 AM
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Hi I did in fact do a lot of pulling and this is what I have left. I was mainly using pdr glue tabs to do the pulling which worked well.
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Old 05-06-2014, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
It looks to me like someone already pulled it and this is what is left....keep in mind that the reinforcement may also be bent and the skin is glued to it so the two pieces will have to be separated before you can do any pulling. its ez enough to do with a hack saw blade just slip it in between and cut. once the two are seperated you can pull the skin. Dont forget to glue it back up when your done...In this case I'd use the filler direct to the metal and not use epoxy at all...but its up to you ,using epoxy wont hurt ,its just a bit of overkill. imo.
X2

Brian
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Old 05-07-2014, 08:46 PM
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HI here is some more pics of the panel, panel is very flat now and I did it without using a stud gun basically I hammered it out which took forever but it is now very flat so the question is do I use glaze putty or body filler since the little divots that are in panel are so small that I cant even get a accurate depth with a dial indicator or just the feeling of my hands.
Thanks
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Old 05-07-2014, 09:54 PM
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Here is more pics after sanding guide coat it looks like there is a lot of low spots but it is very smooth.
Thanks
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