[human_forklift]

I bought my 16 year old daughter a 95 Camaro for her first car.

The car was bought from an auto auction yard as a private sale, not through the auction. The car was a repo.

It has the 3.4 V-6.

The fan does not come on when the coolant temp rises. I've replaced the fan switch at the top of the intake. I'm a bit confused here, because the "switch" seems more like a sensor. I'm getting a resistance reading across the leads, and not an open circuit.

When testing the switch in boiling water, the resistance goes down, but the switch never closes to become a completed circuit.

Even after replacing the switch, the fan won't come on.

I can get it to turn on when I turn on the A/C.

I can also get it to come on by disconnecting the plug at the fan switch. While this gets the fan to operate, I get a "check engine" light.


Second problem......

Since the car was repo'd, they bypassed the security system. They key supplied is not a security type key with the resistor in it. The "Security System" warning light is always lit. Chevy won't make a replacement key, without the original.

Any suggestions on which way to go about solving either of these problems?



Thanks,

[snod83]

not sure about the fan switch, sounds almost like a computer problem?? But for the ignition you will have to get a new ignition switch put in to get the passkey technology back... or deal with the light... The new ignition cost me about 800 dollars on my 94 Z28 about 4 years ago, so it might be worth dealing with the light, as long as there are no other adverse effects.

[trees]

The cheap way is to go to the salvage yard and find a column with the coded key in it, and take the column and computer, then swap out with yours. (you could also just swap the prom and ignition switch, I think).

Trees

[edge]

Originally posted by human_forklift
The fan does not come on when the coolant temp rises. I've replaced the fan switch at the top of the intake. I'm a bit confused here, because the "switch" seems more like a sensor. I'm getting a resistance reading across the leads, and not an open circuit.

Most vehicles have a temp sensor and a temp switch. One in the intake and one in a cylinder head. If it is one wire, I would say it is a sensor. If there are two wires, it should be a switch. Also, it may be your relay(s) is bad. If the signal from the switch or the PCM is getting to the relay, but the relay is not closing, that may be your problem.

Regarding the security key, you may be able to have have the chip reworked to eliminate that feature. Even thought it is a V6, you may be able to get someone like Street & Performance to do it at a reasonable cost.

Here are few other possible reprogramming options:
1. Howell Engine Development
2. Speartech
3. Fuel Injection Specialties
4. Injection Technology
5. Fuel Injection, Inc.
6. TPI Tech (386) 437-1165 or (860) 599-0382 Not sure which number is the correct one

Good luck solving these problems, Ed www.edgesz28.com

__________________________________________________
Who is Jesus?.

[Tim240Z]

You should be able to take your pink slip to the dealership and have them get you a key....just say you lost it. They will need the Vin # and proof of ownership. Make a huge stink if they say "no", because there is NO reason why they shouldn't do it for you....

The PCM controls the fans. Check the low speed fan relay, or fuse. You could always use tunercat software to program out the VATS (Vehicle Anti Thesft System), then you won't have to worry about the key, and you can also check trouble codes, and set fan on/off setpoints etc etc.... (www.tunercat.com)
The ECT sensor does not 'close'...it tells the PCM what the engine coolant temp is and the PCM controls various parameters....
Tim

[human_forklift]

Thanks to everyone for all the usefull information.

Of course.... I'm from the old school.... (as over-used as the phase is these days)

All I ever needed to run my hot rod as a teenager was to know how to set the dwell on a Mallory duel-point, jet a Holley double-pumper and adjust the solid lifters on the cam of choice.

I ran a 13 second 66 Chevelle all of my high school years. Never beat on the street, and only beat a handfull of times at the Fremont/Baylands Drag strip pn Wed. Nights.

Having a father who ran stock cars at the time and brought you up the ranks from a nine year old kid to a 16 year old who could build motors, and set up a stock car with the best of them didn't hurt.

Now, I can't even make a stupid electric fan turn on without having to buy software, cables and a laptop.

No wonder I started building custom motorcycles instead. Way simpler.....


Thanks again.

[curly5759]

The intake sensor you checked is most likely the ECT or coolant sensor. Check the passenger side cyl head for a temp switch (single wire) between the rear most spark plugs. That would be the fan temp switch.

It is possible that the ECT controls the fans thru the computer
Maybe you didnt let the engine get hot enough. I have found that the cooling fans on newer cars are on at 229 and off at 219.

[N8PHU]

Sounds like maybe the old fan switch died and the PO accidently substituted a water temp sensor ?