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Old 01-12-2011, 04:33 PM
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'95 K1500, engine 'hits wall' at various RPM

My '95 K1500 w/ 305 is getting a problem that is getting worse and worse, but it really doesn't effect normal driving.. I let engine warm up at least 5 mins any day it's really cold out. but if I try to get the RPM's above 2500 under load when it's cold, it feels like a rev limiter kicking in. warm it does the same thing, but I can get it to 3500 before it feels like a rev limiter, but sometimes 2,800-3k is it. depends on the load and the gear ( 5spd ) that it is in but it will free rev past 4k with no issue.. Upon noticing this problem a couple days ago. I put new plugs and wires on, but it did not cure it. on the way to work yesterday, the SES light did come on for a flash but only once.. I was going to pull out my code reader today but I was pre occupied clearing snow, and being OBD-I, the code that was there, is probably gone... My next plan of action, is a new fuel filter.. but I also have a new cap and rotor, which would have gone on when I did the plugs and wires, but it was getting late and my gut was sore from leaning over the fender.. any ideas?

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Old 01-12-2011, 04:44 PM
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Sounds like fuel delivery, either filter or pump.
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Old 01-12-2011, 04:50 PM
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When is the last time you replaced the filter? Is sound like it's toast. Replace it and see what happens.
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Old 01-12-2011, 05:10 PM
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If it has a MAF, I would clean it and make sure the air intake path is sealed
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Old 01-12-2011, 05:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lmsport
Sounds like fuel delivery, either filter or pump.
That's what I was thinking. Some pumps just keep getting weaker and weaker till it get's to the point that it doesn't want to start sometimes. It will rev till it blows in neutral but under a load it will only go so far.

One way I've found to tell when the pump is going south (no offense to the So.) is when you mash on it, and it hit's the wall, try lifting the foot a little and see if it feels like it picks up again. If it does, the fuel pressure is the culprit. Time for a fuel pump change.
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Old 01-12-2011, 05:38 PM
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it does come back if I lift my foot, but it still won't spin past 3,500 at any given time under load.. probably is the pump. but I will change the filter too.. I have never changed the filter. I bought the truck a couple months ago for $800 with a blown up rear end. I swapped in a 1500 HD 14 bolt, did an oil change and have been driving it without issue.
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Old 01-12-2011, 05:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt167
it does come back if I lift my foot, but it still won't spin past 3,500 at any given time under load.. probably is the pump .
Yup, do the filter first as it costs less and if it needs a pump, you would want a new filter anyway. I had the same problem with my 305 in my F-bird.
After replacing the pump it was like I put a new engine in it. It's a lot easier to do the in tank pump in a truck than a firebird, trust me!
If you have access to a fuel pressure gauge I would check it first and see if it fall within the guidelines. If not, they sell a pretty good one at Auto Zone for about 50 bucks. There should be a port in your fuel line that looks like an AC freon cap. That's where you hook it up. Good luck!
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Old 01-12-2011, 05:49 PM
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I have to agree with the other guys. Check for a plugged filter. Probably never been changed. If symptom persists the check the fuel pressure under load ie: same conditions where problem occurs ( while driving.) I put a gauge on , and then zip tie it to the drivers side windshield wiper , right in front of the driver, that way you just have to look down when the condition occurs to see the gauge.
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Old 01-12-2011, 06:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by latech
I have to agree with the other guys. Check for a plugged filter. Probably never been changed. If symptom persists the check the fuel pressure under load ie: same conditions where problem occurs ( while driving.) I put a gauge on , and then zip tie it to the drivers side windshield wiper , right in front of the driver, that way you just have to look down when the condition occurs to see the gauge.
My fuel pressure was lower than spec's even at idle. If the FP is weak you should be able to see it without driving it under load. Spec's in the book are read at idle. 9-13 with throttle body but I'm not sure about port injection, I think it was like 49 lbs. I'm no expert so clue me in for next time, but it seems to me if it's a weak pump, one would think it would be weak across the board.
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Old 01-12-2011, 06:17 PM
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Nope. I have seen them keep up untill the demand exceeds expected volume. At that point pressure drops. Seen it a hundred times over the years. The symptoms are just what the OP described.
Pressure can be OK untill the demand volume is beyond the worn pump capability. Pumps are rated at pressure/ @ gal. per hr.
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Old 01-12-2011, 06:23 PM
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Also if the problem is intermittent you cant tell anything by a pressure reading if there isnt a symptom to confirm or negate the test. You need to replicat the symptom and verify the pressure to be sure, or you are just a parts changer
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Old 02-25-2011, 12:04 AM
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this sounds just like the issue i am having with my carbed 350. At WOT my engine tops off at 2600 rpm. If I go back to 3/4 throttle or less the rpms will rise to redline. I replaced the pump about a year ago, thinking it was causing the problem, and nothing. Have then replaced distributor, intake, wires, and rebuilt the carb. I am beginning to think the $18 el-cheapo year old fuel pump is still the problem (same as one it replaced). Thinking about getting a high volume pump next.
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Old 02-25-2011, 12:14 AM
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Assuming your getting good fuel it could be a coil pack, put it on a scope and run it to see whats happening at the rpms you mention. No scope? Run your timing light inside the cab and watch the flash when you hit the rpms where the problem occurs, you may have to test a number of plug wires to find the coil pack that is going bad.

Could be bad plug wires or plugs too, start with a fresh tuneup to eliminate those variables before you go any further...that would include a fuel filter!
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Old 02-25-2011, 12:22 AM
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New HEI distributor (cap and coil included), wires test good, timing spot on. Plugs are fairly new, only have 500 miles on them. Fuel filter is clean, just removed it and no change. Replaced the fuel line this summer from 5/16" line to 3/8". Looked in tank and no obstruction of pick up tube. Problem only happens at WOT.
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