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Old 06-28-2010, 12:24 PM
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96 corvette dual fans with 96 impala ss harness?

Hi there,

I mounted a set of 96 corvette dual fans to an all aluminium radiator, and they aren't coming on. Can this setup work? Since the impala had dual fans, with the same size metripack connectors, it makes sense that they should spring to life when the car is running.

I applied voltage to the fans before mounting them to the radiator, and they both worked fine -- can this setup be run with the impala harness? If so, what am i doing wrong?

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Old 07-21-2010, 06:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tylerwerrin
Hi there,

I mounted a set of 96 corvette dual fans to an all aluminium radiator, and they aren't coming on. Can this setup work? Since the impala had dual fans, with the same size metripack connectors, it makes sense that they should spring to life when the car is running.

I applied voltage to the fans before mounting them to the radiator, and they both worked fine -- can this setup be run with the impala harness? If so, what am i doing wrong?
They will run (provided there is no hidden wiring problem) if the engine gets to the temp reuired to switch them on also if the a c works you can turn that on and they should come on.Maybe the old fans burned a fuse or a relay contact when they went bad.
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Old 07-21-2010, 06:57 PM
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after checking the ewd ( Electrical Wiring Diagraham) I found 3 cooling fan relays. Number 1 is for the left motor (drivers side ) number 2 is for the right ( Passenger side) . Relay 3 provides a ground path for theleft motor in one position and in the other puts the fan motors in a series circuit so they both run just a little slower. I guess it is a cheaper version of controlling fan speeds. You know modules are expensive
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Old 07-29-2010, 06:46 PM
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i only have the two relays... for whatever reason. the three relays in the fuse block are AIR PUMP, PRIMARY COOL, SECONDARY COOL.
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Old 07-30-2010, 07:37 AM
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To test the temp sensor, you will need a meter. Motor cold first test, set meter to ohms, touch the ground lead to the base of the sensor. remove the wire from the sensor, with the positive lead touch the top where the wire was. You will read open or a very high resistance .

Start the engine let it warm up 180 or so, shut it down. Take the very same reading, that will change if the sensor is working. It will now read 0 ohms.

Connect the wire back on the sensor, go to the PCM and take that reading there, verify it is the same. If not that wire is open, and the wiring for the temp sensor needs repair . If you get the same reading , all good.

You indicated that you have verified the circuit out from the PCM to the fans and relays as working. The only component left is the PCM. Another option would be to remove the sensor, read it cold, throw it in a pan of boiling water, remove and take a reading . It will work the same a described above, cold open, hot closed or conducting, if it dose respond correctly, verify the sensor wire from the PCM to the sensor plug make sure it is conducting, reads 0 ohms ...

If true the PCM is suspect, in put verified, out put verified .............. PCM sitting in the middle of all this .

Just for grins, a work around would be to just by pass the PCM, wire the fans and relays to the sensor. The relays respond to a ground and they would not care where that ground came from. I would imagine that the PCM controls a high and low fan rpm and that would be lost, it would be an all on or all off control ................... but it would prevent over heating. You should be real close to figuring this out, glad to see ya sticking with it. Good luck.
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