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Old 12-29-2010, 11:48 AM
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96 vortec 350 block?

I dont know much about the vortec motor, so I figured I would ask. I was offered a 96 vortec block with 69 vette fuely heads, gear drive, polished air gap intake, msd aluminum distributor. I was wondering if this is a good motor? What estimated hp do you think it could have as it sits? And what is the max hp I could get out of it. Im not sure the cam specs and all that. But estimates would be great.

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Old 12-29-2010, 11:52 AM
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not really.. the magic of the 'vortec' engine was in the heads..

it's just another 350 block at this point.. with a one piece rear main.
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Old 12-29-2010, 11:56 AM
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Is it a roller block? That would make it more valuable than a regular flat tappet engine? 396 is right, the heads were what made the vortec engines good, the block is the same.
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Old 12-29-2010, 01:01 PM
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you can do anything with a 350 , so enjoy. Vortec heads can be had off listings for less than $250 a pair. The needed vortec intake is no big change, but the heads are.

My 305 C10 swapped vortecs and springs+retainer from a 3100V6 salvage, and $80 polished intake . 80 Because the polish was scuffed. Laughing to the bank.


There is a crate engine that is a 350 76 cc heads 270 mag cam with action + intake. 290hp/350# .
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Old 12-29-2010, 01:35 PM
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What's the word on these 69 vette fuelie heads are the vortec heads better?
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Old 12-29-2010, 01:46 PM
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Yes they are way better then the old double hump heads.
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Old 12-29-2010, 05:00 PM
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It has been said that the L31 Vortec heads, casting numbers 12558062 and 10239906 as used on '96 - '00 Chevrolet trucks and vans (look for 5700 Vortec badging) are the best-flowing cast iron production cylinder heads that Chevrolet Motor Division has ever produced. They use 1.94"/1.50" valves. In my opinion, the problem is that you have to cut the valve guide height and diameter to fit any kind of a good spring to support any kind of a cam. To bring them up to spec with aftermarket heads that are ready to bolt on, you also need to pull the pressed in studs, mill the pads and tap for screw-in studs. By the time you go through all this monkey motion, you could have been doing something else with your time.

They are a long way from being ready to bolt on a motor, but the parts are out there to make them right. In my opinion though, I would rather start with a set of cast iron aftermarket heads that come out of the box ready to bolt on. RHS makes some killer iron heads with 2.02"/1.60" valves that will outflow the L31's and are affordable in my opinion, compared to all the work and money required on the L31's.

Now, there are fellows who will follow up on this post and say that I'm full of pudding. And that's OK. Each of us has our opinions. The fact is, L31's require a lot of work to bring them even CLOSE to what an aftermarket head will do for your motor. Other fellows will tell you that all you have to do is change springs. That isn't quite telling the truth. The valve guide is so fat that you can't fit a 1.250" spring with damper. The guide is so tall that the underside of the retainer hits the valve seal at anything over 0.430" lift. (This assumes leaving a 1/16" safety margin).

You can buy L31's new from some of the specialty Chevrolet dealers such as Scoggin-Dickey and Sallee Chevrolet that have been modified with different springs and retainers, screw-in studs and guide plates, but the price for a set is over $1,000 and for that money, you can buy a set of aftermarket iron heads that will outflow the L31's.

I guess my whole point is that while they are decent heads in as-cast form, they certainly are not the world-beaters that some fellows would have you believe they are.

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Old 12-29-2010, 06:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1
It has been said that the L31 Vortec heads, casting numbers 12558062 and 10239906 as used on '96 - '00 Chevrolet trucks and vans (look for 5700 Vortec badging) are the best-flowing cast iron production cylinder heads that Chevrolet Motor Division has ever produced. They use 1.94"/1.50" valves. In my opinion, the problem is that you have to cut the valve guide height and diameter to fit any kind of a good spring to support any kind of a cam. To bring them up to spec with aftermarket heads that are ready to bolt on, you also need to pull the pressed in studs, mill the pads and tap for screw-in studs. By the time you go through all this monkey motion, you could have been doing something else with your time.

They are a long way from being ready to bolt on a motor, but the parts are out there to make them right. In my opinion though, I would rather start with a set of cast iron aftermarket heads that come out of the box ready to bolt on. RHS makes some killer iron heads with 2.02"/1.60" valves that will outflow the L31's and are affordable in my opinion, compared to all the work and money required on the L31's.

Now, there are fellows who will follow up on this post and say that I'm full of pudding. And that's OK. Each of us has our opinions. The fact is, L31's require a lot of work to bring them even CLOSE to what an aftermarket head will do for your motor. Other fellows will tell you that all you have to do is change springs. That isn't quite telling the truth. The valve guide is so fat that you can't fit a 1.250" spring with damper. The guide is so tall that the underside of the retainer hits the valve seal at anything over 0.430" lift. (This assumes leaving a 1/16" safety margin).

You can buy L31's new from some of the specialty Chevrolet dealers such as Scoggin-Dickey and Sallee Chevrolet that have been modified with different springs and retainers, screw-in studs and guide plates, but the price for a set is over $1,000 and for that money, you can buy a set of aftermarket iron heads that will outflow the L31's.

I guess my whole point is that while they are decent heads in as-cast form, they certainly are not the world-beaters that some fellows would have you believe they are.
Well said. The same would apply to almost any factory head that does not have hardened valve seats and screw-in rocker studs.

The VorTec block also uses an oddball plastic timing cover. One can use an aftermarket cover to replace it. Vor-Tec blocks are machined for hydraulic roller lifters (factory-style).

tom
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Old 12-29-2010, 08:33 PM
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That is why you use the 10166343 LS6/series 2V6 3100 beehive spring, with an umbrella stem seal. No damper. Retainer 10166344. At 1.8 Install height you get .440+ lift safely on a Vortec head . Coil bind is around .5 inch . Drill the pushrod holes to 3/8" for lift clearance. Springs drop in. It is enough for spirited road driving at 300-350 hp .
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Old 12-30-2010, 12:07 AM
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techinspector1: Thats ok.. I like pudding :>
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