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'98-'08 Ford Ranger Frame w/ '37 Ford Body?

4K views 8 replies 6 participants last post by  trees 
#1 ·
I am in the beginning stages of building my first street rod. Have restored several antique vehicles but this is a new ballgame for me. Trying to do a lot of research before getting into the nitty gritty. Presently in the disassembly stage of the '37 Ford. Have 3 major questions at this stage and from reading this site for the past several months I feel certain there are folks that have the answers. Would like to place the '37 Tudor Humpback body on a '98-'08 Ford Ranger (std. cab) frame, which is the same wheelbase and only 2" difference in wheel track width. Has anyone done this? If so, any major modification? Want to use a 302 cid Ford engine and keep it all Ford. Does the firewall need modifications? What brand name and size aluminum radiator has anyone used which will fit behind the "37 grille without major modifications? Thanks in advance to anyone who would provide advise.
 
#2 ·
VERY few frame swaps work worth a darn, and even fewer are a time or money saver. There are zillions upon zillions of goodies available for that 37 frame.

I would HIGHLY recommend retaining the stock frame.

Brian
 
#3 ·
Is there a problem with the original frame (rusted out etc.) that has led you to consideration of a swap? As Brian points out, frame swaps are difficult to pull off. It's one of those things that sounds easy but proves difficult. And seeing as this is your first full street rod build it might be wise to avoid those problems and stick with upgrading your existing chassis if that is an option.

I don't personally have any experience with this particular frame swap so I would certainly defer to any of our members who DO have that experience and can provide assurance this can be done with a minimum of headaches. Barring that...I'd apply the KISS principle.
 
#6 ·
I see that jbundick hasn't been back to ask any more questions or supply answers to ours. I hope we didn't scare him away with our honest (experianced) suggestions. :)

Brian
 
#7 ·
I have built a few rods and completed a few restorations. I am not willing to do all the work of adapting a body, fenders, running boards, inner fenders and grill shell to a late model frame and running gear. It is so easy (relatively) to upgrade your existing frame, or even better, to purchase a new "rolling" frame set up for your body and planned drive train. As far as the 302, you will need to modify your fire wall and floor board, but this can be as simple as bending a little sheetmetal, cutting out the firewall and slipping the new metal in, or you can buy a new firewall all ready formed for your specific motor and tranny combo. This goes for the floor board and tranny cover as well.

Trees
 
#8 ·
Thanks fellows for your advise. Actually the '37 frame is in excellent original condition. Restored this vehicle approx. 20 yrs ago for my father who passed away four yrs ago. Since I have two other restored antique vehicles, I decided I would enjoy building a street rod and thought the '37 would be ideal, it holds a lot of sentimental value to me. Had the idea the Ranger frame would make the drive train a lot simpler since 302 conversion kits are available, rear end and leaf springs are already in place, wouldn't have to box in the original frame, etc. But from the advise I've received from you guys, I believe going with the original frame may be the way to go. Chassis Eng. has a bolt on Mustang IFS that I like but I don't know anyone who has used same.
 
#9 ·
J, CE makes good stuff so their bolt in will work fine, but I just prefer weld in which is basically the same thing less the bolt holes. Regardless, you have to remove your front cross member which means you have to drive the rivets out. This can be tricky until you get the hang of it. You grind the heads off and use a good punch and hefty hammer. The trick is to solidly back the frame beside the rivet. If you don't it will give enough and all you succeed in doing is continue mushrooming the rivet in the hole. The next job on the frame is to re-work the center section of the X member to allow a clean installation of selected tranny and removal from the bottom when it needs changing. In the rear, there are several options of using parallel leaf springs, 4 bar suspensions with coil springs or coil over shocks, and elaborate Corvette/Jag type units. If you value your time, then you may want to price a complete frame by Chassis Engineering and compare with buying all the components and modifying your own. You may just come out money ahead by selling your stock "rolling" frame assembly for a restoration project. Looking at the different frames out there will give you ideals as to how you want to go if you decide to use your original frame.

Trees
 
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