99 GMC Sonoma, 2.2L 4L60E problems - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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Old 12-09-2008, 08:19 AM
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99 GMC Sonoma, 2.2L 4L60E problems

I've looked thru most of the threads concerning the 4L60E trans but can't seem to find any that follow all the way thru or they aren't the same type problem I'm seeing. Anyways....

I'm working on my son's '99 GMC Sonoma, 2.2L Auto with the 4L60E trans. When we got it the trans was on it's way out so we picked up a remanufactured from a local auto parts place and dropped it in when the tranny finally went. Now it's giving us problems. Possibly due to my own fault but I'll explain that later.

The other day he was driving it and suddenly the R's climbed like it went into Neutral. Then he only had 1st, 2nd and Reverse, managed to make it to work in 2nd and I went and looked at it, added about 1/2qt of tranny fluid and tried to drive it around, it lost 1st/2nd also, reverse still worked fine. We had it towed to AAMCO and they looked at it yesterday, said it needed a complete rebuild, only code showed that it was slipping.....$1800.....no way, so this morning we got a dolly and towed it home. At the shop it was acting the same, reverse fine, had to push/come-along it onto the dolly. Get home, back it off the dolly, he puts it in drive and it kicks into gear just like any other day. Moves forward fine, up/down the driveway, no slipping, shifts great, like nothing ever happened. Also...fluid doesn't smell burnt but it is brown.

Let me back up and explain a few things that happened when we were putting in the new tranny (and by admitting my faults I will be better...I hope). The dipstick bottoms out in the pan before it's all the way in the tube, probably should have taken the time to make it right, but honestly, I don't know how to so just kinda figured the level it should be based on how far it was sticking out of the tube when it bottomed, hopefully someone here can tell me how to get this right. Also, the connectors for the Park/neutral/reverse/indicator (and everything else) switch on the shifter shaft were a real PITA to get off so they broke a little. We did replace the switch itself (since I broke it into a few pieces) but the connectors are still pretty dorked up, no shorts that I could see but they aren't in the best shape. Putting the new switch on I'm not exactly sure on adjusting it, but the indicator shows the correct gear when we are in it so I think it's right. I believe that is it for screw ups, feel free to fill in where needed.

So this is where we are. I think the problem is electrical because of it suddenly working again, or a solenoid of sorts but I'm an automatic transmission idiot. I can handle most anything outside the trans and have ventured into a shift kit on an old Ford C6 I had a while back, so I've seen the inside of the pan before. Will likely be pulling the pan on this one to change the filter/fluid since it can't hurt. So any recommendations short of rebuilding it I'm open to try. We do have access to a code reader so I'm gonna try and get my hands on that today. I need to resolve the dipstick issue, will probably be easier when the pan is off, so how much fluid should be in this thing, up to where on the filter or whatever in there I guess and I'll try to trim the dipstick from the top to make it there. Also any ideas on this complete loss of forward motion and then it coming back again?? I called AAMCO back and he told me because it was cold it worked....well if that were true it would have worked at his place when we were loading it (atleast thats my thinking).

Thanks in Advance.....I participate in many boards like this and understand how valuable they can be, specially to a new person coming in like myself. Check me out under "Hello from Northern MD" in the introductions tab for more non-help relate info.

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Old 12-20-2008, 11:49 AM
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well all 4l60s ive worked on required at least three gallons assuming this was a completely dry unit and dry torque converter,did u flush out the cooler lines before u installed the replacement transmission? maybe some crud from the last trans stuck some valves up in the valve body which would maybe expain why it all of a sudden started working again. i would have it scanned up to see what codes if any it has and go from there.
as far as the dip stick, i dont really have any remedies srry. but for future cases i wouldnt take it to an aamco. why u say because of what most aamcos shops believe A ll. A utomatics .M ust. C ome .O ut lol. not all are like that but most are. ill try to get some info about the dipstick though.
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Old 12-20-2008, 12:12 PM
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this post must have slipped by me , sorry.


Quote:
When we got it the trans was on it's way out so we picked up a remanufactured from a local auto parts place and dropped it in when the tranny finally went.
since you bought a re-manufactured trans , what is the warranty on it? That is the first place I would look.

If you have dip stick problems it may be low on fluid and I would think you have the wrong trans pan on the re-man unit if the dip stick now hits the bottom of the pan.
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Old 12-20-2008, 04:44 PM
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Thanks for the input from both, really appreciated. An update, we pulled the pan and there is a stop of some sort directly in the path of the dipstick and that is all it could be for is to stop it, nowhere near the bottom of the pan, it is removeable with a single bolt.

On the reman point, we called and they are covering it so we put the pan back on and have it out now waiting on the replacement trans to come in. So most of this is no longer a problem, but I have a feeling the new one is going to have the dipstick issue also.

It would have been overfilled not low on fluid from what I can tell. Once we get the replacement in if it does the same I'm going to call back and see what the reman says about the dipstick, the guy seemed to know what he was talking about. And I want to make sure I have the replacement trans before saying anything about a problem with the dipstick.
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Old 12-20-2008, 04:53 PM
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The factory installs a stop for the dip stick on most 4l60e Trans..

it would be bolted at the corner of the v-body under the hole for the dipstick.

it is possible to bolt some of the early design stops on incorrectly
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