[BourgD]

Hey, I'm looking at CRN-113942( H272-2) cam for my chevy 355.
It'sa 216/228 dura.454/480 lift with a 112 LSA. RPM range 1800-5600.
Would this be a good cam for my 355? I want my S10 to get-up and go!!
I have dart 165 intake runners,1.94/1.5 valves
flattop KB 120's with a 9.5 compression
weiand action plus (good idle-5500rpm)(about the same as Edl.RPM manifold)
Holley 670 street avenger
Would this cam give me lots of torque from get-go to about 3800 rpms
Looking for about 420ft lbs and as much hp as I can get up to 5500rpm
I don't know if I will need a higher than stock stall with this cam..
My rear is a 3.42 eaton poistive.
Can someone who has used this cam till me more about it?

Thank's

[F-BIRD'88]

That cam always works good in mild buildups like yours.
A 1.6-1.5 split ratio rocker arm set helps. Net valve lift would be .484"in-.480ex"

A high stall will help any vehicle launch harder. You can use up to a 3500 stall with what you got. Combine with ET streets or drag radials for maximum effect.
A "tight" 10" 3000-3200 stall converter would be sweet and still drive well.
Expect about 4/10th et improvment with a good 10" converter and decent tires over a stock torque converter.

[BourgD]

Hey, Thank's for the reply F-Bird'88, I am going to do just that.
Use 1.6/1.5 compcam roller tip rockers and a higher stall..
I called crane cam and they told me the same. they said this cam
has a smooth idle and it will work very well with my combination,
And they said that if I used 1.6 on intake that it would create alot
more torque and that's what I'm looking for!! They said that I can still
use stock stall, but I will still upgrade that. Haven't desided yet on
what stall to go with though. I'm was looking at the B&M stall's.
Maybe like the 2400's..

What do you think? Thank's Again for your reply!!

[F-BIRD'88]

A "stock" GM th350 12" torque converter will give you 2100-2200stall behind a 350.
I would not bother with less than a B&M 11" "Hole Shot 3000" if you want hard launches. The 10" Hole Shot 3600 would be a take no prisoners choice.
A 2800-3000 stall is fun on the street and good at the strip, without getting too carried away.
The 2400 stall is just a tweeked stock converter. For da GiRlY MeN.

[BourgD]

Hey,F-Bird'88, I got your reply about the stalls, As you probably noticed
I don't know much about stall's. What does it mean a 3000 stall or a 3600
stall? If I take off slow,normal driving. At what rpm's will it shift?, Or will it
not shift till I get to 3000 stall speed, or the 3600 stall speed? On a hard
launch I would realy like the 3600 stall. but what happens at normal driving?

Thank's Again so much for your help!! Please Reply

[hurstbros0]

I have used this cam many times in customer vehicles with very good results. Many a farmer`s pickup that came in with a flat lobe or two got a well appreciated upgrade. The idle quality is great with a little thump-thump and if installed 4 degrees advanced will pull from idle to 5500 nice and smooth.

Dan Hurst

[F-BIRD'88]

Originally Posted by BourgD

Hey,F-Bird'88, I got your reply about the stalls, As you probably noticed
I don't know much about stall's. What does it mean a 3000 stall or a 3600
stall? If I take off slow,normal driving. At what rpm's will it shift?, Or will it
not shift till I get to 3000 stall speed, or the 3600 stall speed? On a hard
launch I would realy like the 3600 stall. but what happens at normal driving?

Thank's Again so much for your help!! Please Reply

A high stall converter will give a looser impression while driving at part throttle.
The shift point is programed by the transmission valve body and will remain the same as it is now, at part throttle.
At part throttle while driving around town, the tach will tend to hug a higher rpm range as you accelerate from a stop. If you now see a driving range of 1000 to 2000 rpm as you progress thru the gears while normal city driving, you will see around 1500 to 2500 with a 11" and say 1800 to 3000 with a 10" 3600stall. it will be relivant to how much throttle you give it. The part throttle coupling is just looser than a stock converter. When you go WOT the converter will flash to its max stall. When you apply less than WOT, the converter will rise to a point less than that, relative to how much engine power you give it. At small throttle inputs the car still moves easily but the tach rpm will read a bit higher than you are used to.
Takes about a week of driving to get used to the new looser drive coupling.
Once the car reaches its cruising speed and you level off the throttle input to cruise along, the engine rpm you see will be very near the same as it always was. Except when say you are going up a hill. Thats the only time you will really notice the converters high stall effect. (under high load)
Like I said, it takes about a week of normal driving to get used to it.
If you want a high stall and want improved hard launchs get an 11" "2800" "3000" stall converter.
If you want a killer hard launch and max ET reduction with sticky tires and don;t mind a bit of "dynamo effect" at part throttle get a 10" "3500" or "3600" (B&M) converter and some sticky tires.
The B&M 3600 holeshot will give you a 3600 stall at max WOT launch with slicks on a decent 350ci SB. A decent 454 will see a 4100 rpm, max stall with this converter. A 305 will see around 3000 stall with this same 10" converter. (less torque input= less stall rpm)

I'd go for the 11" converter.

[BourgD]

Hey F-Bird'88, That's what I will do. The Hotshot 3000-(2800-3200 rpm)
stall sounds just right for me.. One more ? if I may ask you. I have
both a TH350 and a 700r4 trany, I will use the TH350 for this combo,
but I need to have it rebuilt. If I did that the cost is pretty close to
the same as if I would buy a new one which is no problem. Can you
point me to the right one? OH, I looked at the stalls at Summit, the
B&m Hotshot 3000, first line say's its a 10" handle up to 550 ft-lbs of
torque, but the B&M part # BMM-20413 TH350 1965-91yr. say's its
a 12". Am I looking at the right one?

Thanks for your help again, Please Reply!

[F-BIRD'88]

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

This is the one for the th350.

You should be able to get your th350 rebuilt for around $400-600. There is usually not much wrong with them. Don't bother with the th700r4. Heavier, Expensive to rebuild, high stall converters are either tweeked stock junk or big $$$s for a good one (9.5") Too much drop between gear ratios.

The th350 is a simple er more reliable trans for high perf.
Th350 + the B&M 3000 stall is your best bet.
If you can find a trans shop that knows how to modify/convert the th350 valve body to "constant pressure" its a big +. Eliminates the throttle kick down cable.

[BourgD]

Hey, F-Bird'88, Thank's for all your help, this stall 3000 is the one I
was looking at with Summit. There is a trans. shop not far from where
I live that can do any modification I want with a warranty. I will check
with them about the TH350 and I will get this stall..

Thanks Amillion for all the help....
In time I will let you know how it went..