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Old 05-14-2010, 02:07 PM
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about to finally go deeper, help?

I keep having problems with my 383 that the previous owner built, so im about to go deeper before spending any money and check out the condition of the pistons and valves etc. Ive never removed a head before, but i guess this will at least be a good learning experience if nothing else. I can tell that ill have to remove everything down to the oil valley, will the altenator need to be removed? What else will need to be removed?

Ive been having so many problems with the engine and im thinking about sellign the intake, distributor, and the carb and finally switch the car back to fuel injection (it came from the factory EFI). The guy suposedly used reusable head gaskets, should i reuse them? Also what about the headbolts, should i reuse them? The engine only has a little over 1k miles on it so im hoping i can. I will post pics of the condition of the pistons and the valves and get some advice from there. Ive never done this before, but im ready! Plus one good thing is i can finally make ABSOLUTELY sure where TDC is.

One last thing, what all should i check while im down that deep into the engine? And these are the heads that are on the car:

PBM Aluminum Heads, 220cc runners 2.02 and 1.60 valves 58cc chambers

Are they any good? I also pbm roller rockers, is it worthwhile to swap them out for a more reputable brand?



Thanks for the help sorry for so many questions

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Old 05-14-2010, 02:40 PM
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You get what you pay for. I looked at the "strike force" house brand heads from PBM before.
They are just like the procomp stuff if not actually pro comp castings. Look the same to me. |Same chinesium crap. Not very good.

Do a compression test and leak down test before you tear it down.

Only "torque to yield" type bolts need to be replaced.
New GMPP heads bolts are not expensive nor are new head gaskets.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 05-14-2010 at 02:45 PM.
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Old 05-14-2010, 02:47 PM
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what are some good heads for the 350? Do you thinki should keep a check on craigslist and make a trade while they are off?

I would do a compression test but unfortunately i dont have one right now..

If nothing else ill get the headgaskets because they are pretty important.. how do i know if i have TTY bolts?
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Old 05-14-2010, 02:55 PM
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You seem very short on basic knowledge. No gen i sbc's use a TTY head bolt.

carbed motors are pretty simple. What makes you think throwiing a few thousand dollars on a fuel injection system will get you any farther ahead.

Get a fuel pressure regulator and a good inline fuel filter and clean out the carb.
If you flooded it severely at least change the oil and filter. The leak down and compression test will tell you if you smoked the rings from flooding it.

From looking at your other posts you need to do less whining and more solid diagnostics. starting with the carb and ignition and a basic compression check.
I guarantee your ignition advance curve is not correct for the cam in this motor.
It (incorrect advance) will make the spark plugs foul out sooner rather than later making it misfire.

Get the spark advance right starting with finding true tdc with a piston stop and correcting the timing tab.

Here is something you can bet on. If the engine was built with one of the cheapest/dirtiest cylinder heads on the market you can assume that more stuff was probabily compromised. The as cast 200cc port heads from PBM I looked at had serious casting shift, crappy ports etc etc etc. Questionable material/hardening process. You get what you pay for.

Brodix, AFR. GMPP, Dart, Profiler , Edelbrock much better.

What cam is in this motor. ??? get the specs from the builder. Is it installed correctly? is the timing tab correct? fuel pressure, clean carb, fuel filter,,,, etc e4tc

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 05-14-2010 at 03:07 PM.
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Old 05-14-2010, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88
You seem very short on basic knowledge. No gen i sbc's use a TTY head bolt.

carbed motors are pretty simple. What makes you think throwiing a few thousand dollars on a fuel injection system will get you any farther ahead.

Get a fuel pressure regulator and a good inline fuel filter and clean out the carb.
If you flooded it severely at least change the oil and filter. The leak down and compression test will tell you if you smoked the rings from flooding it.
Well im so sorry i didnt know that. The engine was in the car when i got it so i didnt build it and i didnt know what all hes done with it.

Im not putting a few thousand into fuel injection. Im just going to get a wireing harness, injectors, a few sensors that i dont already have, and the HSR intake and throttle body. I dont like cabruators, in fact i hate them, anyone can argue all they want, its outdated. Its not good for street, EFI beats it in every way and its a no brainer until you start talking about drag racing.

I dont mean this to offend in any way, but im so tired of people telling me "carbed" is the way to go. Even my instructors at wyotech (most were over 60 years old) even agreed that carbs were ancient and the only people who used them were either drag racers, or people unwilling to learn how fuel injection works. You may not believe me, but i learned how efi worked and never looked into carbuation at all. Ive looked into it a bit now, but i simply have no motivation into learning about them. I would simply rather have EFi and just be done with it. The extra MPG's would justify the swap at least.

Anyway thanks for the info.
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Old 05-14-2010, 03:12 PM
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Put your carb in a box and send it to me. I will fix it and find it a good home since you have no use for it.

Out dated my ***...... you just have no clue what you are doing there.

Your "instructors" are ignorant. a 10 year old can fix adjust and maintain a carb with basic hand tools and a bit of street/common sense.
spend $10 on a auto repair manual.

One comes to mind... its called "Fix Your Chevrolet" .....google it... Read it, know it, there will be a test. Send a copy to your "instructors".

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 05-14-2010 at 03:23 PM.
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Old 05-14-2010, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88
Put your carb in a box and send it to me. I will fix it and find it a good home since you have no use for it.

Out dated my ***...... you just have no clue what you are doing there.
You can be hateful all you want, but no you can not have it.

Im 18, ill admit im no genius. Im just asking for help, if you cant help me, then dont post. And of course its outdated technology, you dont have to get your panties in bunch because i admitted it.

How can you say my instructors are "ignorant"? Id like to see you be a mastertech for 40 years and get a job offer to be an instructor for one of the top automotive schools. Then you can come back and call anyone ignorant, i wont argue.
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Old 05-14-2010, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stroker444
You can be hateful all you want, but no you can not have it.

Im 18, ill admit im no genius. Im just asking for help, if you cant help me, then dont post. And of course its outdated technology, you dont have to get your panties in bunch because i admitted it.

How can you say my instructors are "ignorant"? Id like to see you be a mastertech for 40 years and get a job offer to be an instructor for one of the top automotive schools. Then you can come back and call anyone ignorant, i wont argue.
If you really want to learn how to fix your carb find a 10 year old with a mini bike. master tech my ***....
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Old 05-14-2010, 03:35 PM
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F-BIRD'88

some folks just will not accept the answers and what if all there lives .


"fix your carb find a 10 year old with a mini bike" Hilarious LMAO
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Old 05-14-2010, 03:48 PM
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From where you are now, FI would just add a bunch more variables to your problem. Get the engine running decent with what you have, then switch. I still work on oval racing cars every day, and every one has a carb, but for daily street use, I wouldnt have one.

In my experience, if an engine just wont run properly after getting all the basics sorted out, it has a cam problem. And usually it has a CompCam. The only catalog cams I will use are Isky, and everything else is Bullet.

Those rockers will break/wear out if used for daily driver. Get the Comp steel roller rockers. The heads will probably outflow most stock heads, so for street use should work.
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Old 05-14-2010, 04:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lmsport
From where you are now, FI would just add a bunch more variables to your problem. Get the engine running decent with what you have, then switch. I still work on oval racing cars every day, and every one has a carb, but for daily street use, I wouldnt have one.

In my experience, if an engine just wont run properly after getting all the basics sorted out, it has a cam problem. And usually it has a CompCam. The only catalog cams I will use are Isky, and everything else is Bullet.

Those rockers will break/wear out if used for daily driver. Get the Comp steel roller rockers. The heads will probably outflow most stock heads, so for street use should work.
Thanks for the info! I forgot to mention that was my plan, i was going to check things out, especially the valve timing and degree the cam, but i was going to reinstall the carb setup. Make sure its running decent and then swap to fuel injection.

Do you think its worth taking the heads off to check things out? Im also scared i may have burnt valves also, the guy told me that he turned 1/2 turn past zero lash, later i found out that the lifters were special and only took up to 1/8 turn past zero lash..
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Old 05-14-2010, 05:46 PM
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a carb setup is better than the factory EFI, especially with the engine modifications. factory EFI is programmed to run on the stock engines.. get a programmable EFI, like a FAST system, and it'll be diffrent, but you will have to know how to tune it. setting the tune to automatic will get it running pretty good, but it won't get the most out of it.. And. your right. Fuel injection is more advanced. but more advanced is also more complicated.. learn to read a set of plugs and a jet a carb accordingly and it will be tuned in ready in an hour or less...... BTW, Wyotech isn't 1 of the top automotive schools. just 1 of the most advertised
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Old 05-14-2010, 05:46 PM
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You need to buy or borrow a leakdown tester and learn how to use it. No need to pull the heads if they're sealing. A cold street engine will leak 5-15%. If the rings have not seated completely, it could be up to 10% more, but should decrease as the engine is run in. A cylinder with lots of leakage will be blowing into the exh, the intake or the crankcase, and that will tell you if you have an issue. Also to a cranking compression test, with all the plugs out and throttle wide open. Record all the numbers for future reference.

Conventional hydraulic lifters will operate fine when the preload is 1/4 to 1 turn. There is no need to try for merely 1/8. But, you do need to know how to adjust them yourself and verify that they are correct.
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Old 05-14-2010, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stroker444
I keep having problems with my 383 that the previous owner built, so im about to go deeper before spending any money and check out the condition of the pistons and valves etc.
If you have not yet done so, you need to DETERMINE TDC. Do that first. Nothing has to be disassembled.

MAKE A TIMING TAPE. Install the tape to show TDC correctly w/the tab you now have, or if incorrect, get the correct tab. Then, see if the cam and crank timing gears are correctly installed. This can be done several ways, but the easiest in this case might be to pull the timing cover and visually check the dots for correct alignment. The cam gear dot will be at 6 o'clock, the crank gear dot at 12 o'clock.

Then adjust the valves to 1/8 turn.

Then use the temporary timing tape for setting the total timing if you don't have a dial back timing light.

If you cannot do these things correctly, forget tearing the engine down.
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