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Old 03-04-2009, 09:38 PM
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ABS prep continued....

So I'm working on an ABS motorcycle fairing....trying to start getting it ready to paint. Well it seems that who ever painted this fairing used something as tough as house paint.

Started sanding with 180 grit dry...it's not touching it. So I tried 120 then 80. The paint almost acts like rubber in a sense. As I'm sanding it resists then finally once I'm through this paint layer, then very quickly I find the layer of the paint underneath which sands easily.

So at this point I've gotten down to the bare ABS plastic in spots...I'm just trying to get a smooth, clean surface to work with.

Once I get this paint off, and get a few repairs done, I'll be doing a BC/CC system. So here's my questions:

Once I've got the 'rough' paint sanded, then I'll do repairs. Once repairs are done (probably including some filler) I planned on sanding with 120 then 180.....

Can I just sand up to 320 and then apply a good 2K primer / surfacer?
Do I need a plastic adhesion promoter?

What's the recommended procedures for ABS when you have to go down to the bare ABS?


Thanks in advance.

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Old 04-03-2009, 03:56 PM
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i have the same question in another thread.
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Old 04-03-2009, 04:58 PM
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use heat gun or paint stripper

try something mild like citristrip, or heat gun and razor blade stripping method
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Old 04-03-2009, 08:21 PM
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I actually already got the panel stripped. Ended up having to go to 60 grit in spots...it appears the fairing was painted with some type of basecoat clearcoat, but you could see the sanding scratches they painted over.

Ended up plastic welding several cracks and even grafting a piece in to fill a hole. Backed the repair with ABS cement and used Evercoat to smooth it all out. I finished up with 360 grit over the entire panel and I'll be priming it shortly.
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Old 04-03-2009, 08:25 PM
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here's the panel with the factory (CA only) hole in it for a cooling fan



Here it is after I cut a piece to fit from a scrap fairing, whittling it down to size, then plastic welding it in



This is a bad set of cracks I welded up





Here's the panel sanded down and several thin coats of Evercoat added





Here's another fairing that I welded the entire top piece back on

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Old 04-04-2009, 05:48 AM
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how did you weld those cracks
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Old 04-05-2009, 06:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glhx
how did you weld those cracks
A regular cheap flat tip electric soldering iron.

Sand / clean the cracks / area to be welded.

Heat the iron up good..

Apply the tip to the crack area and it melts / rebonds the plastic. I 'tacked' it together like a metal weld, moving around so I didn't warp any one spot, then kept going around until it was complete. Did it on both sides.

Beefed up the repair on the backside with ABS cement.
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Old 04-06-2009, 09:01 AM
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So you just melt this together with a soldering iron. This could be done on the back side too. I'm going to try it. how did it hold up to withstand cracking? Is that any special kind of evercoat for plastic? I really like that method of repair. Ive seen plastic welders before but never anything like that
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Old 04-06-2009, 06:31 PM
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i did this to the fairing and it makes repair very easy. I started on an old tail fairing. what i found was that the fushion was strong at the old crack. Next to the melted area it weakened. the plastic was flexible still but the fused plastic was somewhat brittle and broke with some force that would not have broken the original part. It did not break at the fused area but next to it. Is this normal. It seems to work under everyday use where it will not flex that much but will it ever or can it ever be as strong as the original part.
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Old 04-07-2009, 02:34 PM
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Are you sure it's ABS you are working with and not another type of plastic?
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Old 04-08-2009, 09:00 AM
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i believe all suzuki fairings are abs. It does bond and will work great for tacking fairings together for the plastic repair glue, but i found it to be brittle at the weld. If this was for something non structural it would work great. like where you covered that hole. we tested it on a rear fairing to see how much it would take to bust. i had to put some force (not much) on it but it broke. It being on the bike wouldnt see that much force but with the vibration i dont know.We then put cement over the front and the back of the repa90kir and it still broke but it was harder. I am putting $600 in paint on my bike and i can get a fairing for $100 to $200. Thats all im worried about. I hate to buy a new fairing but would you trust this repair with expensive paint?
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Old 04-08-2009, 12:12 PM
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I did a similar fix to an ABS R/C truck body, but I beefed it up in behind using a small swatch of cloth soaked in epoxy. Basically a fibreglass patch. It worked great and never had any more issues. I would use some fibreglass strands and resin in behind those welded spots and you should never have issues. Give the underside of the panels a matte black finish and you should never even notice.
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