AC Compressor Clutch - '79 Monte Carlo - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Hotrodding Basics
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 07-05-2012, 05:11 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 35
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
AC Compressor Clutch - '79 Monte Carlo

Last summer I had the my AC system in my 79 Monte converted to R-134a, but immediately after fixing it the repair shop found the clutch to be smoking after running it for about 5 minutes. They quoted me like $500 to replace the entire compressor/clutch assembly, and I just let it drop. Since its so hot in Jersey right now, I am browsing GM Parts House. The oldest year they list parts for is '84, but most of the time I find the 80s Monte parts fit my '79.

I came upon the 1984 compressor clutch being sold separately. I am aware that I will need a special tool to remove the clutch from my existing compressor, but will this clutch fit the compressor in my '79? When did GM switch from V-belts to serpentine belts? Or does that even matter?

Thanks for your help. I was stunned when I saw this part is so cheap, and hope it would solve my problem. I would love to get my AC running again. I asked this on a Monte Carlo forum too, but honestly you guys seem to be the most knowledgeable car group on the internet, so I figured I'd post here too.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 07-05-2012, 06:23 PM
LATECH's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 

Last journal entry: Motor - vator
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Northeast Pennsylvania
Posts: 5,229
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 209
Thanked 260 Times in 242 Posts
I doubt the clutch went bad, probably someting up with the compressor. I see it all the time. Like WAY too much head pressure.
Guys convert to R 134 and then add a FULL charge of 134 instead of 85% of the R 12 spec as you should, dump in 8 ounces of oil ( which is also very wrong) and do nothing to increase air flow across the condenser, as well as not checking to see if the orifice is plugged or even replace it with a blue one..... and they wonder why they have problems.
How much 134 was put in?
how much oil charge was put in?
What kind of oil was put in?
Did anyone check the orifiice?
how about airflow?
What are the pressures?
A system that old should have had the reciever dryer replaced also.
__________________
Fact is stranger than Fiction
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 07-05-2012, 07:05 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 35
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I honestly don't know the answer to all those questions. He charged me roughly $200 for the conversion. I can tell you that before they did the conversion I almost never ran the AC compressor because it wasn't cool at all, but I do remember one time about a year before I did the conversion that I ran the AC for maybe 5-10 minutes (the longest I had run it in awhile) and I did see some smoke coming out from under the hood, at which point I turned it off, so I was inclined to believe the mechanic.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 07-05-2012, 07:17 PM
LATECH's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 

Last journal entry: Motor - vator
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Northeast Pennsylvania
Posts: 5,229
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 209
Thanked 260 Times in 242 Posts
Well first thing you need to do, is put a set of gauges on it so you can see what kind of pressures are being developed.
Not sure if you have them (gauges) or if you would be into learning some about AC systems. Its pretty simple actually. Any thoughts?
I made a wagon full of money in past years repairing AC. Got pretty good at it too. Living in florida for all those years, you go hungry in summer if you dont fix AC.
__________________
Fact is stranger than Fiction
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 07-05-2012, 09:04 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 35
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Honestly I am into learning about just about anything. I know from my one semester of thermodynamics in college that the way an AC unit works is relatively simple. I have always thought it would be cool to try to reverse an air conditioner, and turn it into a closed cycle "steam" engine.

I am not, however, looking to start my own AC repair business! My 2005 GTO is currently in the shop from a rear-end collision and I am daily driving the Monte during some of the hottest days of the year. I dont have a set of gauges. I am interested in tracing the problem correctly and am not a big fan of the "throw parts at it until its fixed" approach.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 07-06-2012, 01:28 PM
LATECH's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 

Last journal entry: Motor - vator
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Northeast Pennsylvania
Posts: 5,229
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 209
Thanked 260 Times in 242 Posts
I can digg it.
Throwing parts at it isnt a good way to go.Get it diagnosed.
__________________
Fact is stranger than Fiction
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 07-06-2012, 10:55 PM
boothboy's Avatar
More bucks, go faster!
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Grass Valley, CA.
Posts: 596
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 182
Thanked 273 Times in 244 Posts
Which compressor do you have on your car? Is it long in length or short and stubby? If is long it's a A-6 compressor. One of the best ever built. If it is short and stubby it is a R-4 compressor. One of the poorest ever built. If it is a A-6 any clutch from any year A-6 will fit although pulley diameter may differ. If it is a R-4 you'ed be money ahead to convert it to any other compressor and bracket assembly, That could be done with either a original earlier A-6 or a after-market unit.
When your system was converted a new accumulator and orffice should have been installed as well as the entire system should have been flushed. the proper oil should have been added and the proper amount of R-134a should have been replaced.
Clutches go out for three reasons. A sized compressor, a bad clutch bearing or a leaking front seal on your compressor. A over-charge can also contribute to frying a clutch. Extremely high pressures can make the compressor virtually lock up. A bad fan clutch can also cause high pressures.
Replacing a clutch isn't hard if you have the right pullers. Prying the parts apart ain't good. You can bend the crankshaft or warp the shoe. There is also a air gap that must be in spec. If you had smoke and no cooling before the conversion you already had problems.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 07-07-2012, 09:51 AM
LATECH's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 

Last journal entry: Motor - vator
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Northeast Pennsylvania
Posts: 5,229
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 209
Thanked 260 Times in 242 Posts
Actually the stock R 4 "punkin" shaped job is designed to have less drag on the system than the old A 6. I prefer the A 6, but nothing wrong with the stubby one if its in good shape, or a quality re man.
The R 4 stands for Radial 4 cylinder, like an airplane engine.It is designed to pump more efficiently as it pumps one cylinder every 90 degrees of rotation. It also helps curb excessive belt deflection when pumping.
Less moving parts, 4 cyl not 6, means less drag. Overlapping pump strokes also means less harmonics.
If the OP has the R 4 stick with it.No need to change.
__________________
Fact is stranger than Fiction
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 07-07-2012, 11:08 AM
boothboy's Avatar
More bucks, go faster!
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Grass Valley, CA.
Posts: 596
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 182
Thanked 273 Times in 244 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by LATECH View Post
Actually the stock R 4 "punkin" shaped job is designed to have less drag on the system than the old A 6. I prefer the A 6, but nothing wrong with the stubby one if its in good shape, or a quality re man.
The R 4 stands for Radial 4 cylinder, like an airplane engine.It is designed to pump more efficiently as it pumps one cylinder every 90 degrees of rotation. It also helps curb excessive belt deflection when pumping.
Less moving parts, 4 cyl not 6, means less drag. Overlapping pump strokes also means less harmonics.
If the OP has the R 4 stick with it.No need to change.
That was GM's theory but in real life since they had no oil sump they were prone to fail faster then the A6.They were always harder to turn then the A6 I replaced hundereds of them.. Anytime the system leaked the R4 got less lubracation Bad compressor.--
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 07-07-2012, 11:21 AM
LATECH's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 

Last journal entry: Motor - vator
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Northeast Pennsylvania
Posts: 5,229
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 209
Thanked 260 Times in 242 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by eocoolj View Post
My 2005 GTO is currently in the shop from a rear-end collision and I am daily driving the Monte during some of the hottest days of the year.
I just dont see this guy putting the A 6 brackets and all the necessary work involved on this ride.

Just lookin at the OP and his situation, thats all.

I also like the A 6 better, but I wouldnt get that involved in a swap on any car, unless the money was right or it was real keeper.
When it comes to DD s , keep it simple.
__________________
Fact is stranger than Fiction
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 07-07-2012, 11:33 AM
cobalt327's Avatar
WFO
 
Last wiki edit: Intake manifold
Last journal entry: 1980 Malibu Wagon
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Atlanta
Age: 59
Posts: 5,037
Wiki Edits: 1616

Thanks: 128
Thanked 597 Times in 546 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by eocoolj View Post
Last summer I had the my AC system in my 79 Monte converted to R-134a, but immediately after fixing it the repair shop found the clutch to be smoking after running it for about 5 minutes. They quoted me like $500 to replace the entire compressor/clutch assembly, and I just let it drop. Since its so hot in Jersey right now, I am browsing GM Parts House. The oldest year they list parts for is '84, but most of the time I find the 80s Monte parts fit my '79.

I came upon the 1984 compressor clutch being sold separately. I am aware that I will need a special tool to remove the clutch from my existing compressor, but will this clutch fit the compressor in my '79? When did GM switch from V-belts to serpentine belts? Or does that even matter?

Thanks for your help. I was stunned when I saw this part is so cheap, and hope it would solve my problem. I would love to get my AC running again. I asked this on a Monte Carlo forum too, but honestly you guys seem to be the most knowledgeable car group on the internet, so I figured I'd post here too.
You are in a sort of a "danged if you do, danged if you don't" situation because w/o a clutch, you won't be able to tell if the compressor is frozen up, without taking the old clutch off to see if the compressor shaft will rotate.

I would start by seeing if the compressor clutch engages. To do that is a fairly simple thing- w/the engine OFF run a jumper wire to the clutch terminal. One terminal (there are two, see red arrow on image below) is a ground, the other is a hot. If the ground terminal is grounded, touching a jumper connected to the battery "+" terminal will make the clutch *click* and you'll see it jump. If you get nothing, the clutch is bad. This can also be done w/a VOHM meter if you have access to one. Check to see that there is resistance (and what the resistance is) across the terminals. If it's open, it's bad. I don't know what the values are for a good one, check on line for that.

Once the clutch is removed the shaft can be turned if it's not froze up by carefully using a pair of pliers to turn the shaft, w/o damaging the threads or shaft.

But the easiest way to go about all this is to take it to a reputable auto AC shop and have the work done with a warranty. In the long run it'll probably be cheaper than if you try to do it yourself unless you are well versed on auto AC systems; there's more to it than a good compressor and clutch (orifice valve, drier, all the lines and O-rings, there are high/low pressure cut off switches, etc.).

Good luck.


Last edited by cobalt327; 07-07-2012 at 11:40 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 07-07-2012, 12:04 PM
boothboy's Avatar
More bucks, go faster!
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Grass Valley, CA.
Posts: 596
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 182
Thanked 273 Times in 244 Posts
I the system didn't work before the convertion and the clutch was smoking, there s a existing problem. Just switching from r12 to 134a did not fix anything. Te question is what is wrong. Is the compressor frozen? Is there a gross overcharge? Did the clutch bearing seize? Figure that out and then you know how to proceed. If athe compressor failed on my old ride I'd hit up pick a part and change away from a r4. I f it was a customers car I' put another r4 back on.From the info provided this car has a problem ther than which type of refrig it's filled with.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2012, 01:43 PM
E.T. divided by $ spent= Speed
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2002
Location: NYS america's unwiped butt
Age: 35
Posts: 1,858
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Hit the U-pull-it and find a compressor off a 78-87 monte almost all the mechanical parts I found were interchangable on my(sorely missed)78
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2012, 04:41 PM
E.T. divided by $ spent= Speed
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2002
Location: NYS america's unwiped butt
Age: 35
Posts: 1,858
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Hey check out montecarloss.com them guys know there montes and maybe someone has a compressor for ya.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Tags
a/c, chevy, freon, monte carlo

Recent Hotrodding Basics posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
monte carlo ss MDot Transmission - Rearend 7 09-28-2009 04:19 PM
monte carlo superhero General Rodding Tech 2 04-06-2006 01:54 PM
76 monte carlo emtn269 Hotrodders' Lounge 2 03-27-2005 08:43 PM
86 Monte Carlo erimar77 Hotrodding Basics 7 02-01-2005 09:57 PM
monte carlo z-34 Brock455 Engine 1 10-19-2003 04:57 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:38 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.