[daimon1054]

OK my last truck I took apart an invertor and mounted it all to look factory but it was still a pain in the 6. So does any one know where I can buy components like the plugs and such or even a diagram and parts list so I could build the whole thing.

[willys36@aol.com]

I don't have a clue to what you are asking!!

[oldschoolrods]

I think he's asking how to put AC power in his car......

[willys36@aol.com]

Get one of these and bolt the parts in, custom like.

[docvette]

[color=yellow][size=2]Doc Here

Willys36....

I have one in my ENG (Electronic News Gathering Van) and It runs 1~ STL (Studio to Transmitter Link) , 3~5 inch color TV monitors, 1 Video Switcher / Mixer Board, 1 (and Sometimes more) Color TV Camera's, 1 Laptop Computer, and Various Back~lighting and telcom equipment, ... and it never breaks a sweat...

Fits Neatly Under the Van passenger Seat and produces no undue Heat or Noise.

Well worth the Bucks.....

Why Do you want to attempt to build one yourself?

No easy Job, unless your well versed in Chopper Transistor theory, Wave Shaping , and advanced Electronics...

Doc [/color][/size]

[daimon1054]

I could build the electronics easy enough but the parts I can not find. I ended up at Radio shack and they had some burnt up stuff so I took it apart and got what I needed. The plugs are special and can be flush mounted to look factory. Finding the parts is a pain.

[docvette]

Originally posted by daimon1054
I could build the electronics easy enough but the parts I can not find. I ended up at Radio shack and they had some burnt up stuff so I took it apart and got what I needed. The plugs are special and can be flush mounted to look factory. Finding the parts is a pain.

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[color=yellow][size=2]Doc Here

Are you referring to the AC plugs on the Inverter???

You can get or order those standard at Home Depot ... no magic there...

I use, and when we install new, Hardwired resettable Fuse Plug Strips From the inverter anyway because of the volume of equipment run from the inverter...and mount them along the workstation inside the van.

As Far as The DC plugs, on mine at least, the are Standard Binding posts, you should be able to find at any Good Electronics Supplier....

Radio shack is not going to have the type of parts you are seeking, at all. at best a few diodes, resistors, Caps and misc Nut & Bolt hardware.

Here is where you can get most of what you want...

http://www.nteinc.com/

NTE Semiconductor. After you Design your Circuit, Etch and drill your Circuit Board, you can order your semiconductors here, and related Switches, plugs and hardware.

Heat-sink material is getting hard to find in Bulk / Bar lengths, I have had good luck with Electronic Sign manufacturers , so far been able to buy it in Flagged or "Finned" 4 x 4 x 10 foot lengths.So you might check there as you will need about 2 foot of it..

And Don't Forget a Master Shut off or Relay on the DC side of the inverter along with Fuse or Fusible link (outside of the passenger Compartment) In case of Short.

Doc [/color][/size]

[daimon1054]

Thanks Doc! I added a circuit breaker near the battery and have the power run inside, I have all the plugs mounted and the wires run. The AC plugs you said I could get at Home Depot but man I have not found them anywhere so that was why I took the ones from the burnt units. I also took the heat sinks off of them and most of the stuff I needed and am in the process of getting it all onto the circuit board. Thanks for the link it will help with finishing up.

PS Why would you use a fuseable link rather than a fuse or breaker.
I am an R&D engineer but most of my work is with hydrolic systems, I do some electrical stuff but it is not my strong suit so I got some help from a friend on layout of the boards and such. I am also lucky enough to have a electronics tech who can who build all of our boards to walk me through, I burned the snot out a board the first time. But as said finding parts for this is a pain.

Thanks for all the info.

[docvette]

[color=yellow][size=2]Doc Here

In my Case, the Fusible link is able to cope with Spikes Better than a fuse. It is especially Good where the circuit employs lots of motors and Relays ... But I almost always go for a 3 phase Breaker instead as protection / Emergancy Disconnect.

For instance, When I extend the Outriggers on the Van and raise the Microwave Transmitter Dish and Air/return antennas. The system goes through a series of starts, stops, and steps to get the mast deployed to 45 feet...

It uses an air-compressor , airbags in each section, and limit stops for each section.

Where The Link provides a tolerance to things like motor rotor lock for very brief periods (like hitting the end of a limit Stop) a fuse won't stand up to the task...even the so called "Slo~Blo's"

You Can also get a 3 phase Breaker From Allen Bradley or Standard electrics, which stand up to the task well. Plus you have the capability to fuse 2 separate legs of power, and Ground through the same disconnect..

They have adjusters on the legs to "Cushion " for brief over currents and I believe these are thermal also, heat....in addition to draw..

The Draw backs to these is they are VERY expensive, several hundred Dollars For a 100 to 600 amp breaker, and they are bulky, they are gauged for double ought wire.. and you'd want it accessible if your using it for an emergency Disconnect. But, The only other alternative is to "Over-fuse" the System.

Case in point, We have a Public service Production Trailer (Club and Law enforcement Supported) That the Tech didn't want to hassle the Link idea, or install the Breaker,

One Day, On Mast Deploy The Base Mast limit switch Failed, The air-compressor fills each section airbag in series, until it hits a limit stop switch..then on to the next..until the mast reaches 45 feet...

After full Deploy, the malfunction limit switch failed to shut down the air compressor..and the "over~fuse" failed to detect and react to the "Bog" on the air-compressor motor and the long , high continual draw through the limit stop.

Consequently the mast base airbag got filled to very high level of air pressure....and..... BLAM!!!!!

The lower Mast section Launched The Mast, Transmitter Dish, Return / air antennas, several hundred feet of 1~1/2 hardline ($10 a foot plus $75 per Connector end)

yanking much of the equipment out of the racks inside the trailer towards the wall where the cable exited...

Launched About 90 feet in the air..and landed about 1/2 a block away...Thankfully , Nobody was injured but it did about 50 grand worth of damage...

Since, the breaker has been installed, and a compressor pressure switch added to avoid the "Houston We have a Problem " Syndrome...We also now, refer to the Mast deploy Controller as "The Launch Code Console"...

Here is a photo of the Mast Before It's " Maiden flight " in it's retracted position...(It also folds down along the side of the trailer)

Doc [/color][/size]

[daimon1054]

So if I take your advise I can rig up an ejection seat and launch the wife?

[docvette]

Originally posted by daimon1054
So if I take your advise I can rig up an ejection seat and launch the wife?

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[color=yellow][size=2]Doc Here

Well, It's is a Cheaper Alternative To Divorce...

and given my track record with 3 Ex Wife's... well...
No lawyers..
no alimony...
no awkward encounters with The EX when your on a Date...

So yeah, All in All it's a good thing...And besides...It worked for James Bond in his Austin Martin right??

Doc [/color][/size]