I just recently had my car painted by a friend, Who used an acrylic enamel paint. The end result was major orange peel surface. Since I am not familiar on how to correct this problem, what suggestions or steps should I take to correct this. Also, can a clear coat be applied to this finish? Thank you for any help you can give me.

Welcome to Hotrodders. Moving this for you to the Body and exterior forum so our paint guys can help ya better.

Do you want to cut and buff it or repaint it? I don't see the point of clearing it unless it is a metallic color.

I guess I'm looking to see if I can correct the problem , so I would rather not repaint. three coats of this paint was applied and it is a silver/ charcoal color with a lot of metallic. painting is not my thing. So I don't if I should wet sand, compound and how long I should wait to do this. I would be very greatful for any advise

I'm sorry, but there is no cutting and buffing with a single stage metallic. You could VERY lightly buff it, but that is it. As far as clearing it, if you did this car a few weeks ago or something, to late. It would need to be sanded and that again would cut into the metallic and ruin it. You would need to sand it flat, apply another coat or two of color then clear as per the tech sheets for the particular brand of paint you are using.

Personally, I don't see clearing a SS paint. If you want the SS, then leave it. If you want clear, shoot it a bc/cc (base coat/ clear coat) which is a different animal all together. It is MUCH more forgiving.

Personally, I don't see clearing a SS paint. If you want the SS, then leave it. If you want clear, shoot it a bc/cc (base coat/ clear coat) which is a different animal all together. It is MUCH more forgiving. [/B][/QUOTE]

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Martin,
Just for a little extra knowledge base.
What is the weakest part of a paint system, assuming we did everything right, IE epoxy, 2K primer, base clear.
The base coat is the weakest link.
This is no easy task but the most durable and longest lasting system assuming we do the epoxy, and 2K primer is a single stage urethane or polyurethane as a base and than clear next day.
One the single stage has maximum UV protectors in it and now the clear has its two UV's in it.
This system is not for the beginner painter but a lot of rod builders will spray Concept 2 coats and the third coat mix 1/2 clear and paint, than next day 800 wet and shoot 2-3 coats of
HS clear.
I just did a 69 vette this way not long ago (red) and the depth doing it this way is really unmatchable along with the durability.
Cost is high to do this, in this car had about $900 in paint even using SPI epoxy, 2K and HS but still the color was half the cost.
2-gal epoxy 103.
1 gal primer 70
2 gall clear 170
1-gal paint 480
2-paint activators 80.

A photo shoot was done at the good guys last week and you may be able to see in a couple of mags next month, let you know

I agree with you Barry, but this is not at all what we are talking about with mach5otter.

I do have to question the high mil thickness of six coats of modern high solids (read that low VOC) urethane paint and clear. That would be pushing eight mils of product. The color sanding in between only cuts about .5 off. PPG recommends 2.5 for the color and 2.5 for the clear. That paint and clear has just as much solids as a urethane primer.


What is the longevity on a car that sees daily use?

If this product was applied with improper atomization it would be a disaster. That is why I said bc/cc it is much more user friendly. But you are dead right, that SS urethane with clear would be beautiful.

Martin,
You are right to question the mils.
This is a major factor with acrylic urethanes BUT NOT a factor with Polyurethanes.
Now don't confuse what I said with "cross-linked poly's=(enamel with a polyurethane hardener) Not same ball game.