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Old 10-29-2013, 06:51 PM
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Adjustable proportioing valves

Can i replace the combination proportioning valve with adjustable valves from wildwood. Four wheel disc on 37 chev.

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Old 10-29-2013, 11:16 PM
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Yes, you would just need to have an adjustable valve on the rear.
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Old 10-30-2013, 08:02 AM
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You will probably need to add residual check valves too.
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Old 10-30-2013, 09:51 AM
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Need More Info on Your Brake System

Are you having issues with your Proportioning valve? Do you know if it is a combination valve or just a straight proportioning valve. Why specifically to you want to install a manual proportioning valve?

You will NOT need a residual check valve in a 4 wheel disc brake set up. They are used on drum brakes to keep the shoes closer engaged to the drum so you do not have significant pedal travel before the shoes engage.

You need a disc/disc Master Cylinder, not just anything you think will work. This may be part of your braking issue if you are not getting the proper proportioning with your current set up. As I mentioned above, the type of proportioning valve is also critical as well as its location to the MC. It needs to be below the MC.

Fill us in.
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Old 10-30-2013, 04:40 PM
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Yes i am having trouble getting the rear brakes to bleed out. Fronts are no problem but as soon as i hook up the rear line to the combination valve i lose all brake pressure. I have tried elverything that all the great people on this forum has suugested but still wont bleed out. I thought maybe if i eliminated the combo valve and installed two adjustable valves it may fix my problem. I have the corvette style master with equal size pots. Power brake booster and master combo chrome. I tried another master and have the same problem. Any suggestions would be appreciated. The combo valve is below the master. No leaks in rear line.
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Old 10-30-2013, 04:48 PM
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If the master Is mounted under floor , you will need 2 LB residual pressure valves for a disc setup.
Not sure which ones, but early vette masters did not have residual pressure valves in them.
The combo valve is a safety device . You should keep it in the system .
A prop valve shouldn't be necessary.
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Old 10-30-2013, 04:54 PM
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Its on the firewall,
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Old 10-31-2013, 12:10 PM
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Valves

There is a site I found that has a great tech article on valves In a brake system. Type in The Brake Man and read his tech article. I think there is a lot of misconception on different valves. He clears them up. I'm sure there is many more out there. Good luck.
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Old 11-01-2013, 07:18 AM
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Trouble Shooting Your System

Based on the info you provided, you said your rear disc calipers are not bleeding well. I presume you have a power brake booster mounted on the fire wall and your proportioning valve is mounted below that unit.

1. Spongy Pedal: Defective MC, Air in rear calipers, air in system, not using a 4 wheel disc master. Ensure your rear calipers have the bleed valves facing up. If you have rear caliper parking brakes, ensure the piston is set properly in the caliper, master cylinder bore size is too small for your volume requirements.

2. No Pedal: Defective MC, Booster Pin too short between pedal and MC, Air in rear calipers, Low drag calipers, bleed screws not up, rear calipers not adjusted.

I recommend using a vacuum bleeding system instead of pushing the pedal. If you have the correct Proportioning valve installed, NOT a combination valve that has about a 1" long end on the rear brake line hook up (that is a built in residual valve for rear drum brakes) you may have inadvertently set the piston in the proportioning valve in the wrong position (Not Neutral). To ensure you have the Proportioning valve set correctly, do the following.

1. Use a 12 volt test light and connect one end to a positive volt source and the other end to the electrical connection on the valve. If you have NO light, the valve is operating correctly. If you have a light the pressure differential valve is stuck in the front or rear position.

2. Bleed brake system to determine which system front or rear is not getting proper flow. One system will squirt out the bleeder the other will trickle out.

3. The system with flow must be opened for flow to alter the pressure on the opposite side of the pressure differential valve IOT center it.

4. Slowly depress pedal with steady pressure until the light goes out. When light goes out close the bleeder. Your system is now centered. Vacuum bleed the system starting at the most distant point in the system working your way around to the closes point in the system to the MC.

Have fun and good luck.
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Old 11-01-2013, 08:00 AM
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If they ae Caddy calipers with the integrated e-brake
the e-brake MUST be adjusted prior to bleeding as this also
places the pads out to contact the rotor.

Caliper (after e-brake adjustment) may need to be removed
and oriented in such a manner to get the bleeder port
up to 12:00 to properly bleed.

I had to remove the calipers and block the pads with a block the same thickness as the rotor to bleed and remove all of the air.

E-brake usage on a regular basis is necessary to keep the calipers
adjusted properly.

I hate these things----considering removing them and putting drums back on.
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