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Old 02-20-2009, 03:39 PM
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adjusting cold valves on solid lifters

Hi Guys,

Help me out please. My SBC Clay Smith cam sheet says to set the valves 18 degrees HOT. I want to set them intially so what should I set them at COLD??Thanks for the help in advance!!!

Thom

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Old 02-20-2009, 03:53 PM
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All-iron combo (heads and block) minus .002", iron block/aluminum heads minus .004-.006", all aluminum minus .006-.010" are good rules-of -thumb to get you started.
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Old 02-20-2009, 03:55 PM
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I know I'm being silly here but I want to be sure I get it. So at 18 degrees hot set them at maybe 14 degrees cold?? Thanks!!! Oh yea, I have iron block aluminum heads.
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Old 02-20-2009, 04:07 PM
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Yes, break the cam in this way, then after the cam break-in set them on one cylinder hot to the correct lash. Let them cool overnight and see what they are cold on that cylinder, and then lash the rest to that cold spec.
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Old 02-20-2009, 04:23 PM
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tommer2, that's not degrees in the lash spec, it's thousandths of an inch. (eighteen thousandths) (0.018")
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Old 02-20-2009, 04:59 PM
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"So at 18 degrees hot set them at maybe 14 degrees cold?? Thanks"
*
Maybe I mis-understood...
It's been my experience that the hot setting will be tighter than the cold setting on an iron block.
If the cam Manufacturer recommends .018" I would expect a cold setting of .020"-.022".
JA
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Old 02-20-2009, 06:10 PM
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Yea I didn't mean degrees!!! DUH
You know I kinda of thought like johnnya. I thought a valve gets closer when they get hot. So if I set them at 12 thou. cold they would be even closer when the motor gets hot!! I'm kinda confused.

Thom
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Old 02-20-2009, 06:28 PM
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http://cranecams.com/?show=faq&id=4
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Old 02-20-2009, 06:46 PM
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Not in my experiance, but it wouldn't be the first time that there was more than one right answer. Crower told me way-back-when (the 80's) all-iron was "same cold or hot, generally" . Heat seems to expand the block and heads away from the cam centerline far more than all the little pieces in the valvetrain expand themselves, that is what an all-aluminum combo does on a larger scale.
Take into account that the valvetrain will "settle in" a few thousandths and get looser in the break-in period as all the parts get friendly with each other.
Wherever you choose to start, you aren't going to kill the valvetrain on break-in over just a few thousandths. Break it in, check and set 1 pair hot, let it cool overnight, check same pair cold, and you now have "your combo's" correct cold lash to match the "hot" cam card spec. Tune it later by going tighter or looser from this spec.

Last edited by ericnova72; 02-20-2009 at 06:51 PM. Reason: The Inspector beat me with the Crane link
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Old 02-20-2009, 07:18 PM
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Set cold @ 016 or o18 doesn't matter , run engine up to operating temp. shut down measure while still hot. Now notice the difference from orig setting cold, now you know where to set cold in the future to arrive at the cam hot spec.
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Old 02-20-2009, 07:59 PM
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Thanks for all the input guys!!! Makes sense
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