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First thing that comes to mind is to ask if you verified #1 piston TDC on compression stroke and then checked that in that crank postion the balancer mark and tab were lined up?
How is the new chain and gear set made to allow advancing the cam? with a multi hole cam gear or with a multi slot crank gear? |
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Its a multi keyway on the crank. I took the old timing chain off with the dots lined up at 12 and 6. installed the new chain and sprockets with the cam at 6 and the crank at 12 in the advanced 4 degree slot, engine runs fine but shuts off when the mark on the balancer comes up toward the timing tab.
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You could try and re-establish true TDC and balancer marker/tab oreintaion first
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Ill give that a try. Does it matter that after i replaced the timing chain i put the balancer on with the dots at 12 (crank) and 6 (cam). This would be tdc on cylinder 6 if i'm not mistaken. I wonder if i should have rotated the engine so both dots were at 12 and then installed the balancer.
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I just checked today and tdc on number 1 cylinder has the balancer mark right at zero, took the distributor cap off and the rotor is also pointing at the number 1 cylinder, yet with the timing light on the mark on the damper is still nowhere near the timing tab? Engine starts and runs well but i would like to be able to time it, confused.
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Start from scratch
Look at the intake valve/push rod as you hand crank the motor over as the intake is closing is the balancer mark coming up on TDC? this will tell you that you are on compression stroke. Where is the dist rotor in this case? pull it out and reset in there if its off. Base or initial timing is done with vacuum advance (if equipped) disconnected right? |
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Quote:
The damper has only one keyway (unless it's been cut for two, like used on some blower engines). That means it cannot be installed incorrectly as far as the TDC line position goes. I wonder why you advanced the cam in the first place; unless the cam was degreed to know exactly what you had to start with, advancing or retarding the cam is not a good plan. Anyway, there's an error somewhere. Rotor phasing and cam ground wrong can be eliminated- engine runs smooth and the last timing set was OK for the timing marks, I'm guessing. That leaves: Timing set manufactured wrong. Rare, but has happened. • Timing off wrong wire/wire crossfiring. You can use #6 to time it to see if there's a difference. • Timing set installed one tooth off from perfect/using wrong crank gear keyway. Engine might appear to run OK, although it will not be performing as it should. However this would account for the timing being off as seen w/a timing light, and IMO is the most likely scenario. |
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Yeah it doesn't drag when i start it, i figure i'll listen and if it doesn't ping when i drive it then i should be ok. It is the stock damper with the one keyway. Engine did run good with last set, just had 1/2" of deflection. The crank gear had only three keyways, retarded straight up and advanced, i put it on advanced 4 degrees. I'll try to time it with the light connected to cylinder 6 as you mentioned and see if that works, Thanks.
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I took the chain and timing gear off and installed it straight up, neither advanced or retarded. I then put cylinder one at tdc and went to re install the balancer and it was the same scenario, the indicator on the balancer was at the 5 o'clock position. I bought a new balancer and lined up the key way, and its right where it is suppose to be. The old balancer must have slipped on the rubber ring. Thanks for all the advice.
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Probably is the case that the ring slipped. I don't know why but it looks like we all missed it or thought the damper was new. Good job.
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My first/second post, if this procedure was done the slipped balancer would have been obvious at piston #1 true TDC, after the fact
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